Saint Laurent F/W 2024.25 Paris

[Cocteau Stone]

Man the people worried about the sheer pieces in here are kind of funny, almost prudish. Surely they'll produce commercial pieces lined and unlined for those that want something sexier. You can call AV just an image maker until the cows come home. At the end of the day, he's a really good image maker and within that is innate sense of design, even if this show is insanely repetitive. You can't help but love the fact that sex is back on the runway.

It's a rather aseptic kind of sex though. Nothing about it looks or feels very embodied, it's just "styled" and composed to look as such and the exposed breasts is extremely contrived. Similar to the Alaia Spring 2024, with all the taught tailoring, snatched ponytails and latex. It's trying for sexiness and seduction, but really it's just an aesthetic cliche.

 

[RaisinBoy]

Loved all the sheer stuff.
Free the nipple yall!!

 

[TerraVera]

It's a rather aseptic kind of sex though. Nothing about it looks or feels very embodied, it's just "styled" and composed to look as such and the exposed breasts is extremely contrived. Similar to the Alaia Spring 2024, with all the taught tailoring, snatched ponytails and latex. It's trying for sexiness and seduction, but really it's just an aesthetic cliche.

thank you! but some (men) wanna play dumb about it

if you think this hackneyed trick is eMpOwErInG and bOLd, then flowers in spring but be revolutionary to you. tuh.

it's either desensitization or p0rn sickness to think anything about it is ~cool~

 

[yslforever]

thank you! but some (men) wanna play dumb about it

if you think this hackneyed trick is eMpOwErInG and bOLd, then flowers in spring but be revolutionary to you. tuh.

it's either desensitization or p0rn sickness to think anything about it is ~cool~

It's not an esthetic cliché not even really an empowering or bold statement, it's quite basic now (but not in the most puritanical cultures I admit)
Nipples have been freed since the 60s, the hippies and I have tons of sheer, semi-sheer, lace etc tops, dresses and clothes in our YSL archives...
If I recall well there was a trend late 90s of visible bras under transparent blouses...

 

[tourbillions]

i dont see why now in 2024 is it all of a sudden an issue to show breasts in the runway. To link it to p*rn or something sexual at all says more about your personal views. Unless the models are underaged then that is a completely different story.

Anyway the way the lace is draped and constructed on these looks would never look as good if presented with lining or any under garments.

 

[lhhbl]

the red dress is absolutely dramatic and stunning! The blue number as well and the suits in the end were beautiful! Strong collection and even though it does get a little repetitive I believe in his point of view for the house. The last look is not pretty either, but Awar almost saved it.

 

[blackcherrified]

His SS2008 was insane

I loveeee his FW2010 (and the accompanying style. com video where Philippe Starck was commenting on the collection with his French-accented English… “… pure Yves Saint Laurent juice…”)

Back to this collection… I didn’t read through the thread but I had a déjà vu when watching the runway video… I felt this ominous feeling I had when I was viewing the ill fated YSL spring 2012 collection by Stefano Pilati… iykyk

… but I guess Saint Laurent sells enough Icare and Kate to keep AV at his current position… but for how long?

 

[LadyJunon]

I loveeee his FW2010 (and the accompanying style. com video where Philippe Starck was commenting on the collection with his French-accented English… “… pure Yves Saint Laurent juice…”)

Back to this collection… I didn’t read through the thread but I had a déjà vu when watching the runway video… I felt this ominous feeling I had when I was viewing the ill fated YSL spring 2012 collection by Stefano Pilati… iykyk

… but I guess Saint Laurent sells enough Icare and Kate to keep AV at his current position… but for how long?

I don't think they'll be replacing him anytime soon. Saint Laurent had a bad quarter at the end of last year, but their annual growth is still miles ahead of Gucci and Bottega Veneta.

On top of that, it would be a better idea to prioritise more urgent situations like Gucci and Balenciaga.

 

[tricotineacetat]

An interesting excerpt from WWD's review of the show:

I can just hear the suits at Kering tearing out their hair hearing that statement and I love him for that.

as somebody who firmly believes in a form-follows-function approach to design and is first foremost interested in fashion that people can actually wear, hearing the motivation behind this collection to be vulgar, dumb, and yes, lazy.

 

[florylate]

Wow, I’ve been out of the high fashion loop for years now and this was breathtaking. Classic YSL but also saw some inspiration from classic Balenciaga cocoon coats, Elbaz’s Lanvin circa 2011 and a more conservative yet sexy AF Vandevorst. For my personal preferences, someone could never go wrong with those silhouettes and that colour palette.

 

[LadyJunon]

They just uploaded the director's cut of the show and the first thing I noticed is how they butchered the soundtrack to fit the video. It's most noticeable with the several skips during the finale.

 

[fenty]

This was the best collection this PFW by far. People in here are confusing repetition with being cohesive, Anthony never disappoints !!

 

[LadyJunon]

 

[Creative]

I literally will never get how someone can consider any Vaccarello creation “good” on a fashion level. He is empty. He has zero substance. It can be kinda pretty in a superficial way, but has zero depth, zero fashion… it’s void. It’s just too simple (not in a good way), to meaningless, too superficial, too calculated at the same time… Like if you are used to drink Coke and then you a have two drops of Pepsi in a glass of water.

I don’t know, it’s hard to explain, but for me he is just a stylist. And not a good one. It’s like a Zara advertising, trying to be good, fashion, but it seems very calculated and already out of fashion because they are just following.

Then, if I were a client, I would probably want many of his things, idk. But it’s just an empty product. I don’t know why I am the only one that sees it and how people can be so easily tricked (this sounds terrible and would only say it here).

 

[LadyJunon]

I literally will never get how someone can consider any Vaccarello creation “good” on a fashion level. He is empty. He has zero substance. It can be kinda pretty in a superficial way, but has zero depth, zero fashion… it’s void. It’s just too simple (not in a good way), to meaningless, too superficial, too calculated at the same time… Like if you are used to drink Coke and then you a have two drops of Pepsi in a glass of water.

I don’t know, it’s hard to explain, but for me he is just a stylist. And not a good one. It’s like a Zara advertising, trying to be good, fashion, but it seems very calculated and already out of fashion because they are just following.

Then, if I were a client, I would probably want many of his things, idk. But it’s just an empty product. I don’t know why I am the only one that sees it and how people can be so easily tricked (this sounds terrible and would only say it here).

For me, it's because the rest of fashion has become a wasteland.

 

[Deleted member 167090]

 

[tricotineacetat]

What we call "design" in 2024. 😅