Saint Laurent F/W 2024.25 Paris

[Kanzai]

Stefano Pilati's YSL was my ideal YSL woman.

His SS2008 was insane

 

[Not Plain Jane]

Did they really think that it was a good idea for ¾ of the collection to be sheer dresses? I feel so bad for the merchandisers who have to sell this at full price. If half of those sheer pieces were in satin or charmeuse, it would've been a much more solid offering.

That aside, I enjoyed this collection like I expected to. The slouchy suits and the leather cocoon coats were the best pieces here. I loved the styling with the headwraps and drop earrings. Setting, casting and music were on point too. Glamorous and decadent.

exactly. who would wear this?

 

[gallianostan]

He does a lot with the talent that he has.

lethal shade

 

[disco54]

Its decent but does not knock it out of the park , the sheer dresses and chemotherapy head wraps are not helping either. The pantsuits are the best part. Its trying to be a TF collection from the early 2000s but its lacking stellar model caste, its repetitive and nothing inspiring. Vacarello is a good stylist but not really a designer to me.

 

[JohannesL]

The beauty of this collection lies in the lightness and sheernesss so I am skeptical if adding the lining to this collection will lost the sultriness of the runway styling but serving more elegance like what Pilati would usually do. Vaccarello is a consistent designer who is good at keeping a brand alive but not great for pushing the brand forward, which is probably the best balance the paring of a brand and a designer can achieve in the current state of corporate fashion. I would probably take this over the pretentiousness at some brands or the mediocrities at Chanel and Dior.

 

[yslforever]

YSL is a clothing label first and foremost. I dont think Ive bought a YSL accessory outside of a middling quality mens wallet. I never even got the mens Mombasa which at-a-time was literally impossible to get. I have purchased tons of clothing. YSL has been my main purveyor of Tuxedos for like 2 decades atp. YSL is probably my #1 RTW pour Homme brand of all time in terms of buys. When Tom was there Id buy like 10-12 pieces a season, with Stefano it was like 14-16 with Hedi I would buy as much as I could and with Anthony its like 6-8 pieces. I just dont wear so much clubwear anymore. If i did I would buy as much as I could.


I like the collection more knowing its just permutations of panty hose. That actually makes it quite good. Its like celebrating an iconic Yves code.

Are we twins ?
YSL, in my mind too, has always been a clothing company too, I appreciate the fact that AV doesn't show accessories at all. Accessories are, well, just accessories so I'll never understand people collecting handbags while going out in tracksuits .
That being said AV makes it very difficult for us to find clothes to buy. Everything, including in menswear, is so extra-delicate, but when I like something I want to wear it several times and keep it in my wardrobe...

 

[TerraVera]

t*tties on the runway... riveting

otherwise, pleasing color palette with repetitive slinky, lingerie looks. at least we know the color options for the 5-7 total available looks. lazy trick to fill up space i guess.

this is akin to using big quotes with little analysis in the paragraphs to make it look like you wrote a two page double spaced paper. more thought went into the presentation than the products - the clothes - being presented. i'm not amused.

 

[Deleted member 1957]

Good thing he got one of the best walkers at the moment to close.

 

[mteb123]

A Very Repetitive Collection… So Repetitive it becomes sickly… Which is a shame as otherwise there is some beauty to it.. Unfortunately in this case the beautiful moments get lost in that same look in 20 variations… I generally like AV’s YSL and I know he’s found a formula that works but my goodness he needs to push the boat!!

 

[mrbelgravia]

Stefano Pilati's YSL was my ideal YSL woman.

Honestly if FW08 were shown yesterday it would still be a hit and sell very well

 

[yslforever]

t*tties on the runway... riveting

otherwise, pleasing color palette with repetitive slinky, lingerie looks. at least we know the color options for the 5-7 total available looks. lazy trick to fill up space i guess.

this is akin to using big quotes with little analysis in the paragraphs to make it look like you wrote a two page double spaced paper. more thought went into the presentation than the products - the clothes - being presented. i'm not amused.

I know a handfull of women in Paris who would wear the sheer tops, under a blazer or a cardigan... not the sheer skirts though. They'll go for jeans, pencil skirts or tuxedo trousers.
It's defitinely not a commercal showing, except maybe the fur (?) coats ... I just wish it was real fur...

 

[LadyJunon]

I know a handfull of women in Paris who would wear the sheer tops, under a blazer or a cardigan... not the sheer skirts though. They'll go for jeans, pencil skirts or tuxedo trousers.
It's defitinely not a commercal showing, except maybe the fur (?) coats ... I just wish it was real fur...

I believe that the fur coats are made of marabou feathers.

 

[Lola701]

YSL is a clothing label first and foremost. I dont think Ive bought a YSL accessory outside of a middling quality mens wallet. I never even got the mens Mombasa which at-a-time was literally impossible to get. I have purchased tons of clothing. YSL has been my main purveyor of Tuxedos for like 2 decades atp. YSL is probably my #1 RTW pour Homme brand of all time in terms of buys. When Tom was there Id buy like 10-12 pieces a season, with Stefano it was like 14-16 with Hedi I would buy as much as I could and with Anthony its like 6-8 pieces. I just dont wear so much clubwear anymore. If i did I would buy as much as I could.


I like the collection more knowing its just permutations of panty hose. That actually makes it quite good. Its like celebrating an iconic Yves code.

Reading your comment, I actually wondered how someone who used to buy YSL menswear so much would actually continue to buy YSL today.

I almost have the same trajectory with womenswear. I’m faithful to designers rather than brands but I can’t help but realize that I have clothes and accessories from all the designers at YSL even if I wasn’t an avid client of Slimane’s. While I like more or less what Anthony is doing with the brand, since he took over, I have bought a lot of shoes and very few RTW pieces.
And when you go to the Saint Laurent store, it’s obvious that the proposition is more « gender-fluid » as they would say than really about a man’s wardrobe.

I feel like Vaccarello projects a good vision but sometimes his clothes lacks that extra thing. The big blazers didn’t looked timeless enough for me to buy even though I will probably buy something from the SS2024.

 

[Ruito]

Very repetitive! Couldn't tell one look from the other!

 

[Tchi]

The collection is entirely made out of stockings

 

[plentyofhorns]

Kanye wests gf is definitely going to wear this collection lol

 

[LadyJunon]

Kanye wests gf is definitely going to wear this collection lol

View attachment 1251551

You're going to hell for posting this. 😂

 

[yslforever]

Reading your comment, I actually wondered how someone who used to buy YSL menswear so much would actually continue to buy YSL today.

I almost have the same trajectory with womenswear. I’m faithful to designers rather than brands but I can’t help but realize that I have clothes and accessories from all the designers at YSL even if I wasn’t an avid client of Slimane’s. While I like more or less what Anthony is doing with the brand, since he took over, I have bought a lot of shoes and very few RTW pieces.
And when you go to the Saint Laurent store, it’s obvious that the proposition is more « gender-fluid » as they would say than really about a man’s wardrobe.

I feel like Vaccarello projects a good vision but sometimes his clothes lacks that extra thing. The big blazers didn’t looked timeless enough for me to buy even though I will probably buy something from the SS2024.

It’s difficult…. I tone it down with Celine.
The collection is very reminiscent of the Foundation exhibition, «Transparences », which was first shown in Calais last year.
Now I have a dream to put AV Image Director at Chanel, to oversee and bridle Viard, who needs it, and elevate this now clown show.

 

[xodaphne]

As others have noted, Yves made clothes ..

Shoes and accessories were always by far the weakest point of Yves' offering, throughout his entire career. They were there to accent the clothes. Saint Laurent is about cut, drape, tailoring -- not just a certain attitude.

If you're the designer of YSL and you can't make clothes for women to wear -- if all you can make is sleek imagery to sell bags and stilettos -- you have failed.

 

[TerraVera]

I know a handfull of women in Paris who would wear the sheer tops, under a blazer or a cardigan... not the sheer skirts though. They'll go for jeans, pencil skirts or tuxedo trousers.
It's defitinely not a commercal showing, except maybe the fur (?) coats ... I just wish it was real fur...

in other words, their breasts would be covered. i'm really not surprised a man is trying to defend another man's decision to this lol

he could've made some ysl bras or slips. either way, it's a very very very TIRED and LAZY design idea