Saint Laurent F/W 2024.25 Paris

[Nimsay]

My friends are sending me pics asking me if the expectation will be topless in NYC winters. Yves says Yes!

 

[Phuel]

incredibly lazy

Is it laziness? …That would imply he’s capable of more, and he’s never given the impression he is. For someone of incredibly limited creative talent, he is an incredibly hardworking imagemaker. The shows, the production and casting for his shows, campaigns, and branding is a masterclass in what corporate money can easily polish a turd into gold— in the right hands. And he’s become very good at it. I’ll give him that.

HIs design contributions are very basic— and he’s shamelessly ripping off the silhouettes, even the color-palettes from late-80s Gaultier/Alaia/Montana wholesale. That the collection offers very little once broken down to its separates, really matter not. The strong visuals will convince the fashion victimz he’s a worthy designer— and more importantly, to spend on the shoes/bags/accessories— all with the classic YSL logo. Of which BTW, was a masterclass move in marketing and branding to push so aggressively. That YSL logo has the brandpower of Karl bringing back the Chanel logo and monogram. HIs SL is such a great education in marketing. Learn it, kidz.

 

[dancv]

What AV offer us is definitely more of a visual experience but not so much on the innovation side of design (but was it ever?).

Like everyone else, it was a pleasure to watch the show and everything was very tight edited to consolidate the image of the Vacarello’s YSL women. She might already have most of this, but she will still find something here that will fit right into her current wardrobe. And his designs have a certain “maturity” to them which I also commend, some of it almost reminds me of Alber’s YSL.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

I really like it but why is at all transparent? I understand a small handful of looks, but it’s almost the entire collection. It’s all going to have to be modified before it hits the stores. It’s going to lose the fabulous effect it had on the runway. As a concept it’s good, but it needs to have a little bit more than that. Give us some good pieces to wear over the transparency.

 

[Creative]

This collection is so absurd, repetitive and pointless. It’s so empty, zero substance.
It was just one look repeated to extenuation.

Beyond basic and meaningless, just like Vaccarello. Zero depth.

The venue tho 😯

 

[blueorchid]

I wish he'd explore other aspects of YSL's designs, but for what it is... it's fine.

 

[CholoChic]

It is going to be a very hot summer says Saint Laurent, beautiful show and the venue and lights magnific, I love the cameras movement.

 

[Alquimista]

I guess I was the only one disappointed with the collection. I expecteded more from him.

Not many fans of Vacarello here. hehe

 

[LadyJunon]

An interesting excerpt from WWD's review of the show:

On Tuesday night, Saint Laurent’s creative director Anthony Vaccarello built nearly his entire fall collection with flimsy silk hosiery fabrics, which he said was a nightmare for the atelier, given how easily they can snag and ladder.

“I wanted to do something very fragile,” he said backstage, fretting that his stocking dresses, blouses and pencil skirts might not even hold together for the figure-8 that models negotiated through the vast show space, the floor resembling wet asphalt and the walls ringed with green damask curtains.

Vaccarello has been influential in staging fashion shows with an unmissable, memorable silhouette and hence a fashion message as direct as a bullet. His spring collection was all cotton safari dresses, and he said this fall effort was a reaction to that.

He cited a wish to make clothes that disappear, or won’t survive more than a day of wearing, if that.

“Don’t ask me about how we might produce it,” he said. “I think my job is to propose something different that is not necessarily realistic or necessary.”

I can just hear the suits at Kering tearing out their hair hearing that statement and I love him for that.

 

[Kimihiro]

It’s been said ad nauseam but the show is good, the clothes not so much.

“Don’t ask me about how we might produce it,” he said. “I think my job is to propose something different that is not necessarily realistic or necessary.”

The fact that he says this means they’re less interested in clothing their clientele than doing branding well. Maybe there’s a pre-collection but really?

I’ve loved the mood, the direction of where he’s taking Saint Laurent but I’ve always felt like the clothes apart from several pieces have no place in real life. This is a bigger problem at his menswear, like who would wear those? Are these just all supplements to leather goods?

It’s been few seasons of decadent shows, I need clothes from him. Season appropriate too.

 

[dodencebt]

To be fair, it's not like a brand like Saint Laurent relies on the seasonal runway clothes selling. They sell plenty of basics, leather goods, and accessories - it's what keeps the revenue up for most luxury brands. In my view, the runway collections are supposed to sell a lifestyle and don't even need to be always produced, or be produced in small enough quantities that only celebrities and the most fashion-forward people will wear them.

 

[Fiercification]

I'm getting a little fatigued with Vaccarello's aesthetic, in a similar manner to Blazy (not that I'm trying to make direct comparisons, because I think that would be unfair and a bit random).

His shows are always slick and well produced with good styling by Sinclaire but now it's getting a little boring. Partly down to the aforementioned repetition of ideas and silhouettes (I feel like I've seen him doing the exact same earrings recently and the coats/furs feel very much like the stuff he was sending down the runway two years ago). Casting is also a bit uneventful. You don't always have to *insert 00s cult girl/supermodel* into every show but some excitement would be welcome.

The colour palette and ambience that the lighting/set/music created also felt a little 'Dune' esque to me. I can tell I'm going to be sick of that trend and the film hasn't even been released yet; no one can convince me it's genius when Lynch's version was such a pile of trite b*llocks.

 

[mellowgloom]

It gives the impression of “I cannot choose which iteration, so have them all”. Sheer, sheer, sheer, brown, brown, brown. Ok yes and then what?

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Just when I though Vaccarello's YSL couldn't get any leaner...

Fantastic set and mood, so we know where a lot of the money went. And great makeup. The colours in the show are beautiful if a bit expected, but this looks to me as if it would make for a better Spring/Summer or Resort collection as opposed to a Fall/Winter. Usually I'm kind of okay with his scale of repetition, but this was way too much I just skipped through the video quickly. And the sexiness wore off very quickly when it is all the same. I'm not opposed to sheerness and nudity on the runway, but when it is repeated the same way this many times it wears off.

I wouldn't say this is a lazy collection. Vaccarello at YSL has always been more of a stylistic/curatorial approach. He's just not very evocative. In the set design sure, but when there isn't a lick of it in the clothes when you're producing collections like this it does have you yearning for more. Or at least for it to be pushed a bit further.

Do like the suits, but I hate the shoulders in them. The garter shirts and knit are bit cliche. Frankly, there should have been just a few more pants because we did not need this many of those skirts. This will make for a decent campaign and visuals, I'm sure of it.

 

[Nimsay]

To be fair, it's not like a brand like Saint Laurent relies on the seasonal runway clothes selling. They sell plenty of basics, leather goods, and accessories - it's what keeps the revenue up for most luxury brands. In my view, the runway collections are supposed to sell a lifestyle and don't even need to be always produced, or be produced in small enough quantities that only celebrities and the most fashion-forward people will wear them.

YSL is a clothing label first and foremost. I dont think Ive bought a YSL accessory outside of a middling quality mens wallet. I never even got the mens Mombasa which at-a-time was literally impossible to get. I have purchased tons of clothing. YSL has been my main purveyor of Tuxedos for like 2 decades atp. YSL is probably my #1 RTW pour Homme brand of all time in terms of buys. When Tom was there Id buy like 10-12 pieces a season, with Stefano it was like 14-16 with Hedi I would buy as much as I could and with Anthony its like 6-8 pieces. I just dont wear so much clubwear anymore. If i did I would buy as much as I could.


I like the collection more knowing its just permutations of panty hose. That actually makes it quite good. Its like celebrating an iconic Yves code.

 

[jeanclaude]

Expensive (and repetitive) see-through dresses, which snag easily...and for winter??

wikimedia.org

 

[Scotty]

He does a lot with the talent that he has.

 

[lookatme]

He does a lot with the talent that he has.

I love this dig.

 

[Lorenzogi]

Vacarello’s prediction for size zero girls is telling in this collection. Keen observers will note that the best upcoming girls from 2024/2034 are not included here. I think it makes this collection less than it could be. Some might argue that the ‘swim caps’ make the casting less important because faces are obscured, but casting still matters in the context of participating in the zeitgeist of modelling. Using second tier models with a few exceptions (Rubik, Mica etc) make this a bit underwhelming as a spectacle. Most of those models will go on to do not much. Aleyna who opened last season has a well publicised eating disorder. That is unconscionable to support but yeah, no one is gonna say anything about it because - fashion.

They are not even size zero, they have no bodies. Just rectangular twigs.
Swimming caps call for swimmer type bodies. 😆

 

[Lorenzogi]

Stefano Pilati's YSL was my ideal YSL woman.