Saint Laurent Pre-Fall 2024 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[tricotineacetat]

For a moment I thought I had seen Anouck Lepere in these photos but no, it's a look-a-like model - What a missed opportunity!

Why is that? Well, for me it's that Anthony's Saint Laurent girl doesn't really seem to exist. Curve-less girls in seemingly sensual clothes and teetering high heels that seem impossible to walk in - I had this problem with him since the very beginning when he started his own brand. I always thought he tried to imitate the spirit of Nicolas' beginnings at Balenciaga, all the collections that lead to his breakthrough - Just less accomplished.

You can argue as much as you want that Hedi's womenswear design is unimaginative and 'Zara deluxe', I will agree to that in many cases. But there's something for a diversity of women to relate to, I respect that - Timeless investment pieces (I would rather buy his tailoring than Max Mara) and wearable footwear, for the most part.

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

I love this, this taps into one of my darkest fantasies in fashion, imagining myself as this beautiful Parisian woman.

As Virginie Mouzat once described a Riccardo Givenchy collection, the complexity of being a French bourgeoise woman... Lady by day! Hooker by night!

This wardrobe is for that dark sexy confident yet soft fragile woman, like the ultimate muse of YSL Catherine Deneuve in 'Belle du Jour' as a high-class prostitute by choice because of boredom.

I love the rheinstone bling bling sandals/ squaretoe clear plastic heels with the stocking, it draws the attention of straight men to look at her expensive pedicure. The fur bag and coats have a texture to them like a bedroom rug or as they say fur coats no knickers. The Black PVC shirtdress/ coat, the lingerie as outwear... Not only Catherine Deneuve in a fantasy film, but I can imagine Carine wearing most of it in reality too. Also this collection is more wearable than Marc's Fetish collection for Vuitton Fall 2011

9/10 from me

 

[yslforever]

For a moment I thought I had seen Anouck Lepere in these photos but no, it's a look-a-like model - What a missed opportunity!

Why is that? Well, for me it's that Anthony's Saint Laurent girl doesn't really seem to exist. Curve-less girls in seemingly sensual clothes and teetering high heels that seem impossible to walk in - I had this problem with him since the very beginning when he started his own brand. I always thought he tried to imitate the spirit of Nicolas' beginnings at Balenciaga, all the collections that lead to his breakthrough - Just less accomplished.

You can argue as much as you want that Hedi's womenswear design is unimaginative and 'Zara deluxe', I will agree to that in many cases. But there's something for a diversity of women to relate to, I respect that - Timeless investment pieces (I would rather buy his tailoring than Max Mara) and wearable footwear, for the most part.

You know those shoes exist just for the bedroom ... At least that what my straight friends told me, they keep buying them without their girlfriend just for the sexy time...

 

[Lola701]

Stefano Pilati described in the most accurate way the YSL: a woman who doesn’t work.

In a way he was right because the ultimate YSL woman is Betty Catroux.

It’s a YSL by Vaccarello collection so, YSL through the eyes of Azzedine Alaia with a dose of Tom Ford.

The casting doesn’t help but the whole thing doesn’t feel luxe enough. I feel like the current YSL woman would date the current Tom Ford man. But they aren’t as irrelevant and chic as they think they are.

 

[BalkaniStaCouture]

Awar is stunning. My God, that girl. WowZa! 🥰🥰🥰

 

[lookatme]

He, too, thinks he's in a real groove...but it's not working for me.

His clothes and lookbooks read extremely Zara to me. I know that gets thrown around so often, but for him it's especially true.

 

[Creative]

Vacarello’s YSL definitely died last season with the green show. This brand is on its last legs… This glorified stylist should definitely be a stylist for Zara instead of a designer for one of the most important brands in the world.

 

[Kanzai]

It's giving Dolce & Gabbana S/S 2024

 

[Grets]

Since Chemena left his side his collections have been looking very stale and lifeless

 

[Frederic01]

I love the space where they photographed the interior shots, L'Espace Niemeyer in Paris, so chic. Ambience is 10/10.

The collection however feels very repetitive, no? It's the exact same as the Autumn Winter down to some near identical looks from that show, which is confusing.

Vacarello is a vey unoriginal designer. We often talk about Hedi or MGC being repetitive, but this man wins the prize for that. I don't think I've been an original idea from his team in years. They are very much into creating "vibes" but not that much into crafting actual clothing that is convincing outside of cocktail and evening wear.

I can see why someone like Hedi Slimane would appeal to the Wertheimer's for the Chanel position when I watch collections like this. He can do luxurious ready-to-wear convincingly in a way that a lot of these other designers can't.

 

[NoInvite]

Love how they try so hard to add the bags in.

 

[Alquimista]

Much better than the runaway show.

Vacarello is one of the best designers of womenswear of our time. He gets it.

 

[MulletProof]

For a moment I thought I had seen Anouck Lepere in these photos but no, it's a look-a-like model - What a missed opportunity!

Why is that? Well, for me it's that Anthony's Saint Laurent girl doesn't really seem to exist. Curve-less girls in seemingly sensual clothes and teetering high heels that seem impossible to walk in - I had this problem with him since the very beginning when he started his own brand. I always thought he tried to imitate the spirit of Nicolas' beginnings at Balenciaga, all the collections that lead to his breakthrough - Just less accomplished.

You can argue as much as you want that Hedi's womenswear design is unimaginative and 'Zara deluxe', I will agree to that in many cases. But there's something for a diversity of women to relate to, I respect that - Timeless investment pieces (I would rather buy his tailoring than Max Mara) and wearable footwear, for the most part.

The problem is that in that specific category you mentioned (certain body types at odds with the clothes), they're hardly different, and I'd throw Olivier Theyskens into the mix.. great clothes but especially in the runway presentations before the pandemic, holy s*it, his models pretty much ruined the clothes.. necklines, shoulders, sleeves, bustier, it was all floating on the models looking plain sad.

I don't know who the second model is and who told her that it's cool to rock some kyphosis, and whatever she's doing here with her legs, but... posture is everything.. she makes Saint Laurent look like thrifted s*it that she washed and customised herself.

 

[andrew]

You know those shoes exist just for the bedroom ... At least that what my straight friends told me, they keep buying them without their girlfriend just for the sexy time...

I mean you're not wrong.

 

[callmejaeden]

Does anyone know who the photographer is? the collection has been shot beautifully.

 

[jeremydante]

Loe this look book and the looks. Vaccarello is hitting his stride.

 

[pradn]

Does anyone know who the photographer is? the collection has been shot beautifully.

Photographed by Mark Kean