Saint Laurent S/S 2026 Paris

[PierreGotha]

He's on Autopilot with this collection. The presentation and venue did their Job to elevate the overall collection.
Saint Laurent is about the medium of being chic, and the RTW pieces that Yves declared to the world. Anthony doesn't really move mountains. Especially when he made better collections previously, and that's okay.

Out of all of Kering's brands, this house is carrying its weight graciously.

 

[RobAllen4599]

Should Kering be really spending all that money for the set when the show was a flop?

 

[Creative]

The kind of collection that they would do it a cheap person creates a biopic on YSL. Too literal and kinda cosplay.

 

[90sfan]

What dont you guys like about the show? Thought it was beautiful!!

 

[tricotineacetat]

What dont you guys like about the show? Thought it was beautiful!!

It’s like I said, I don’t really see how this relates to the women I know, their needs, their lifestyles. It feels like a passé idea of a femme fatale from a bygone era that keeps the narrative of Saint Laurent stuck in what other people pointed out as costumes from a Saint Laurent biopic - We’ve seen shows of Vaccarello with direct nods to Yves' own style, to Jacques de Bascher, as well as the way Betty and Loulou would dress. At this point I am just wondering if we might see one day a show with models carrying french bulldogs, lol…

 

[tourbillions]

What dont you guys like about the show? Thought it was beautiful!!

although he rarely makes any wearable clothes, his woman always live in a dream. I usually like it but this time i am not buying into this season's dream, specially the last dressess. The first 2/3 of the show was usual sl by him but the last dressess loost me. They are fugly and no one's gonna make those style of night gown gowns desirable specially in 2025 nor 2026.

 

[LadyJunon]

although he rarely makes any wearable clothes, his woman always live in a dream. I usually like it but this time i am not buying into this season's dream, specially the last dressess. The first 2/3 of the show was usual sl by him but the last dressess loost me. They are fugly and no one's gonna make those style of night gown gowns desirable specially in 2025 nor 2026.

Hard agree. The show would've been much stronger if they'd axed the dresses at the end. Maybe replace them with something else. In all fairness, I haven't been buying with floor length gowns on the runway for a while. It feels too red carpet adjacent.

 

[Avonlea]

Those gowns would work if he changed the bottom for something fitted or short. He could have also used only the top part and turn it into huge shirts a la Ferre. Now it's just too much, eyes have nowhere to rest. That would require actual thinking and designing though.

 

[Lola701]

I don’t know if his Saint Laurent has to be « ancré à la réalité ».
I always think of the runway collection as a complementary offer to the wardrobe that is shown during the precollections.
And in a way, because his collections are so directional, there’s a real coherence between this show and the precollections.

The collection is beautiful but the formula is just redundant. If you do a leather pencil skirt, how could you elevate it more? Could it be embossed? Mixed with another fabric? Embroidered? Repetition is not an issue. The problem is maybe the lack of design depth behind the surface.

I think of someone like Alber. He was very consistant about his work. But he always found a way to push it further in a design approach. There were seasons where he created volumes without structure under, he twisted the fabrics, the finishing.


As great as his collections has been, they have lacked in signature. He really approach Saint Laurent like an Art Director. It’s perfect but you want that touch that surprises you, that excites you.

And I’m a sucker for that. I love structure, pencil skirts, tailoring. When I see a Saint Laurent show, I see a lot of things that I want to wear but I never have the feeling that I have to buy them.
When his collections had more of his signature, there were « accidents » that were the result of creativity. Now it’s an endless game of references of references.

 

[Xone]

I don’t know if his Saint Laurent has to be « ancré à la réalité ».
I always think of the runway collection as a complementary offer to the wardrobe that is shown during the precollections.
And in a way, because his collections are so directional, there’s a real coherence between this show and the precollections.

The collection is beautiful but the formula is just redundant. If you do a leather pencil skirt, how could you elevate it more? Could it be embossed? Mixed with another fabric? Embroidered? Repetition is not an issue. The problem is maybe the lack of design depth behind the surface.

I think of someone like Alber. He was very consistant about his work. But he always found a way to push it further in a design approach. There were seasons where he created volumes without structure under, he twisted the fabrics, the finishing.


As great as his collections has been, they have lacked in signature. He really approach Saint Laurent like an Art Director. It’s perfect but you want that touch that surprises you, that excites you.

And I’m a sucker for that. I love structure, pencil skirts, tailoring. When I see a Saint Laurent show, I see a lot of things that I want to wear but I never have the feeling that I have to buy them.
When his collections had more of his signature, there were « accidents » that were the result of creativity. Now it’s an endless game of references of references.

I agree it was an ok collection surely lean on set and PR moves...even if it has the same structure it feels i don't know uninspired this time....the last set of dresses had the volumen and the color but agree with @Lola701 he didn't push himself creatively this time.

Loved the sunglasses and shoes....

I think it's time to change the structure of the collection and how to show it. I'm aware he dont ;ile bags but drop them here and there maybe help?...specially when the clothes needs some help...

 

[FashionPower]

The absence of bags is ridicolous after seeing half of model wearing sunglasses and 100% of them carrying oversized rococò inspired earrings...

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

Let's not forget...

fashiongonerogue

 

[Creative]

Let's not forget...

fashiongonerogue

He wishes

That was a masterpiece.

 

[tourbillions]

Let's not forget...

fashiongonerogue

vaccarello is giving us temu version of this. yas girl give us nothing

 

[Vikingtop]

I liked the collection.... but i would love to see more things you can actually wear!

Even those huge silk-parachute gowns at the end! Love them!!! Even if those are not really 2025.....

 

[Lola701]

I agree it was an ok collection surely lean on set and PR moves...even if it has the same structure it feels i don't know uninspired this time....the last set of dresses had the volumen and the color but agree with @Lola701 he didn't push himself creatively this time.

Loved the sunglasses and shoes....

I think it's time to change the structure of the collection and how to show it. I'm aware he dont ;ile bags but drop them here and there maybe help?...specially when the clothes needs some help...

I don’t even mind no bags on the runway. They don’t always elevate a silhouetted I remember always hating seeing a bag on Alexander McQueen runways…

But it could be great if after, the bags in stores had a little more to offer than knockoff Chanel with a Cassandre logo.

And it’s weird because he is someone who has such an overall creative vision and you would expect that vision to go to the bags too.

I’m so curious to see what trunk shows and styling sessions looks like at Saint Laurent.

At Vuitton for example, they have quite freedom in terms of styling and so they put things in different perspective. At Saint Laurent, you know that you are getting a slingback, strong shoulders and a Loulou bag regardless.

 

[hamburgers]

Let's not forget...

Every time someone complains about polyester or synthetics in fashion I show them one of these SS08 dresses.

I like the leather story here, but the biker pieces are way too obvious and lack the elegance I expect out of YSL so I get why people see Jeremy Scott's Moschino or maybe Roseberry's Schiaparelli.

The nylon story looks scratchy and sweaty, but as a hoarder and indecisive packer I'm kind of obsessed with it. You can wad one into a weightless ball, throw it into your bag, forget it and voila you suddenly have a last minute indestructible all weather look. With a boost from the shoes and accessories, it's probably one of my favorite shows of the Paul Sinclaire era even if it's not one of the best.

I doubt Vacarello is going to become an ultra rigorous designer ever so I like to zone out and just enjoy his YSL for what it is like how people enjoy superhero movies.


@samuel_ellis

 

[psychopsist]

Not the exact same looks, but the inspiration and the vibe was giving very Moschino SS18: the venue with the flower appliques and the leather jacket and caps. On the Moschino runway, the leather jackets were mostly cropped, heavily studded and paired with ballerina tulle skirts, but the first half of the collection heavily relied on leather. I assume both designers wanted to show the clash of a modern woman between the delicacy of the flowers / ballerina and the toughness of the leather.

I see, I do kind of see the similarity with the harsh leather combined with a floral setting and elements, but yeah Moschino Ss18 felt more like badass biker ballerina chicks(and then those living blossoms at the end) , while Saint Laurent seemed to me to be going more for like this very grand, cinematic, almost religious drama, with even the bow blouses resembling crosses.

Speaking of the blouses, I was reminded of the pussybow x leather combo by Pilati for YSL fall06. Specifically these two looks. I liked Pilati’s version better but I can appreciate AV’s take too.

The oversized leather is just not very personally desirable to me, but I think it has an idea of “the cool woman” of today’s times without relying on the quiet luxury/clean girl vibe that’s popular and so that’s why he stands out. With the big stylized earrings, the sunglasses, the big shoulders, bangles and cuffs, slingbacks, jewel tone palettes, etc, he offers a coolness that feels rich, historical, bold, adorned, with an effortless unruffled swagger.

Sometimes I wish to see something more complicated, like the formula seems a bit too easy, but at the same time, it works.

 

[vogueparis]

I'm a Saint Laurent h*e and I ate this up. Bonus: I saw it from afar in Paris, and I was still gagged by the models and the movement of the garments.
It was truly a beautiful show, even from outside. The set was luxurious and mythical, like a floating paradise with fog rising from underneath. And the Eiffel tower as the backdrop? Now, c'mon now.
I love the jewelry and the oversized glasses, ahhh!

 

[mepps]

It’s like I said, I don’t really see how this relates to the women I know, their needs, their lifestyles. It feels like a passé idea of a femme fatale from a bygone era that keeps the narrative of Saint Laurent stuck in what other people pointed out as costumes from a Saint Laurent biopic - We’ve seen shows of Vaccarello with direct nods to Yves' own style, to Jacques de Bascher, as well as the way Betty and Loulou would dress. At this point I am just wondering if we might see one day a show with models carrying french bulldogs, lol…

You don't know any woman who could afford to live the Saint Laurent lifestyle, of sex, glamour, and decadence.
That's okay tho.