Schiaparelli F/W 2022.23 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Deleted member 1957]

If there's one thing they know how to do best its to present their wprk

 

[Lola701]

The photos and the presentation is slick!
The clothes not so much…

 

[bc collector]

I really would like to love Daniel's work, he comes across as such a nice, unpretentious guy...but his work is so, so heavy, in this case without the preciousness of HC.
If only he could make his clothes look a touch lighter and less like theatre costumes...

 

[dior_couture1245]

I’d really like to see more Schiaparelli and less Gaultier and Alaia and Mugler.

The house’s archives are gorgeous. There’s no need to go and rummage through other designer’s aesthetics.

I’d prefer to see less 80’s and more 30’s here.

 

[Avonlea]

I’d really like to see more Schiaparelli and less Gaultier and Alaia and Mugler.

The house’s archives are gorgeous. There’s no need to go and rummage through other designer’s aesthetics.

I’d prefer to see less 80’s and more 30’s here.

It's much easier to whip up a collection full of "couture" gimmicks than to tackle the challenge and create a masterfully constructed garment that instagram gays won't give a single f*ck. Nowadays anything extravagant or unusual has to look like costume for a drag queen.

 

[dior_couture1245]

It's much easier to whip up a collection full of "couture" gimmicks than to tackle the challenge and create a masterfully constructed garment that instagram gays won't give a single f*ck. Nowadays anything extravagant or unusual has to look like costume for a drag queen.

Yes. 100%.

I love the drama, I love the extravagance of fashion - I love that potential. But I’m in complete agreeance that for most designers working today, that means….Drag Queen.

Don’t get me wrong - I’m the number one Galliano/Dior fan, and I still adore that kabuki drag era of his work. But that was so elevated and cheeky and refined. It was different than this.

This current thing is more RuPaul Drag Race season 15??? It’s the cheap, tacky Instagram version of “high fashion couture.”

Rick Owens created more beautiful drama this season with his grey sequin gowns enveloped in smoke…you could almost imagine Jean Harlow in them. That’s the energy. That’s the vibe.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

This is Alaia, Montana, JPG, Mugler and all the legendary "French" designers except the one that should be : Schiaparelli.

 

[THD96]

He seems so obsessed with JPG cone breasts, it getting boring now. We get it, it's "surrealism". Evolve babe, and and add more "Elsa" to your Schiaparelli please.

 

[brandon J pierre]

i like him just not a big fan, its all been seen

 

[Machinegumm]

He ran out of steam FAST.

 

[jeanclaude]

I see a 1991 editorial by Herb Ritts, showing all the new 90s clothes from 80s designers (Gaultier, Alaïa, Mugler...).

Not a single trace of Schiaparelli here.

 

[perhydrol]

Actually, some looks from this collection come straight from their own archives, especially the trompe l'oeil knitwear. I must say, it was pretty well executed. I feel they will get more interested in their heritage in future collections instead of creating an over-embellished, flashy image and I appreciate that direction. Overall, it's a nice offering.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

It's funny because to me this feels so New York rather can couture house. Not in terms of fashion week placement, but in terms of the actual conception. Roseberry's Schiaparelli is so one note it's sad to see a house with this rich of an archive be subjected to such a collection that is so drag-y. Nothing against drag, but that quality of camp seems to be the go to to create "fashion moments". Instagram will love it, fashion gays will swoon (I Deserve Couture and Haute le Mode in particular) but it doesn't really have much appeal beyond that.

The way it is presented is sleek for sure, but Schiaparelli as a house had such a way with colour that it's frustrating seeing Roseberry constantly dealing with black, white and what I would presume to be gold embellishments here as his bread and butter.

 

[RaisinBoy]

How do you say... MUGLER!?!?

 

[RaisinBoy]

how do you say gaultieeeeerrrrrr??!?!

 

[YohjiAddict]

I think it’s cute and serviceable but I agree that Schiaparelli has too good of an archive to just look like an overly embellished Alaïa or at times a poor man’s Lacroix.

It’s now time to use more color and start touching on more specific themes and narratives before his whole tenure becomes a blur of the same things regurgitated over and over again, like we see at Gucci with Alessandro.

 

[vogue28]

Find myself falling completely in love with Daniel Roseberry's Schiaparelli and there's plenty to fawn over with this collection (right down to the Herb Ritts-esque photography). My favourite look, above all the statement pieces, is the cut-out dress with the bow detailing on the shoulders. Perfection!

 

[Cute]

Not sure where else to post this but wanted to share: