Seán McGirr - Designer, Creative Director of Alexander McQueen

[Overindulgence]

I just want Kering to take notes from the recent Margiela couture show and the overall Margiela strategy (innovative and interesting and well crafted clothes on the runway, and save the merch for the store, and don't show that on the runway unless it's the accessories/shoes). I know that's a strategy that some used to hate a decade or so ago but I'd take that over merch being shown on both the runway and store. People want innovation again, along with some theatrics, but the clothes and overall direction have to come first to really push it. And if you supply that, then the merchandise in the store will sell. So please no hoodies/logo pieces/those boots in the previews on the actual runway show, they can be saved for the e-shop.

 

[Deleted member 163984]

hi sean

Uh it’s SEÁN

 

[LadyJunon]

My excitement plummeted the second I saw the full campaign on the official site:

WHY COULDN'T WE HAVE HEELS, SEAN? HASN'T BURTON PUNISHED US ENOUGH WITH HER COMBAT BOOT FETISH???

 

[Lola701]

I just want Kering to take notes from the recent Margiela couture show and the overall Margiela strategy (innovative and interesting and well crafted clothes on the runway, and save the merch for the store, and don't show that on the runway unless it's the accessories/shoes). I know that's a strategy that some used to hate a decade or so ago but I'd take that over merch being shown on both the runway and store. People want innovation again, along with some theatrics, but the clothes and overall direction have to come first to really push it. And if you supply that, then the merchandise in the store will sell. So please no hoodies/logo pieces/those boots in the previews on the actual runway show, they can be saved for the e-shop.

I personally hate that strategy because it further more create a disconnect between real life and runway and generates more stuff.
We look at the Amazing shows of Galliano for Dior in the early 00’s…To sell what? J’adore tshirts, Dior addict accessories, Dior Hardcore and canvas bags?
The great shows of Lee sold skulls scarves and accessories.

There needs to have a balance and a wardrobe approach to make things work. Loewe does that well and Vuitton does that well. Nicolas can make any experimentations he wants on the runway but the collection will still exist in stores.

Kering is proving with Bottega Veneta that they can encourage creativity and commerce.

What we should be worried is the brief. We know that the goal is for McQueen to be a champion at Kering but what will be the strategy?

And Lee made real clothes! My favorite McQueen collection is FW2002! There was separates, lingerie, tailoring, eveningwear, showpieces! There are ways to be creative and clever on the runway while showing clothes people wants to wear!

I think that sometimes that’s what was missing from McQueen! A wow moment but not a moment when you think : I want that dress!

I think about Lee’s Isabella’s tribute collection! A fabulous show of fabulous clothes.
A lot of people love theater and drama and don’t care about fashion…

 

[Overindulgence]

I personally hate that strategy because it further more create a disconnect between real life and runway and generates more stuff.
We look at the Amazing shows of Galliano for Dior in the early 00’s…To sell what? J’adore tshirts, Dior addict accessories, Dior Hardcore and canvas bags?

For an ideal strategy, yes I agree with you. My point is this is Kering, they are going to push that MERCH, which to them is real clothes, regardless (see ANCORA, Balenciaga, etc.). And within that context, I'd rather it just be saved for the store. If the brand was owned by another conglomerate (which is already a depressing statement), I'd be more hopeful that the strategy you like could be achieved.

 

[LadyJunon]

Side note: I think they've pulled a "SAINT LAURENT" and unofficially dropped the "Alexander" from their title. That might not be the best idea considering that the name "McQueen" is a much more generic surname than "Saint Laurent".

 

[gallianostan]

never have i wanted bernard arnault to win so much, i hope he truly gets the last laugh

 

[LadyJunon]

never have i wanted bernard arnault to win so much, i hope he truly gets the last laugh

In the hypothetical (but absolutely possible) situation that Kering does actually collapse, I pray that Richemont buys them out. While I'm rooting for Arnault's revenge arc, I really don't want an actual monopoly.

 

[mteb123]

Need to see the first collection to really get a feel for the direction!! These teaser images leave me curious… certain aspects of this could be good.. Enlisting Debra was a good move along with the nods to the tartan & the skull etc … those shoes.. the tailoring or lack there of and those cheap looking masks are not sitting well with me.. Hoping this is all tied together for a better first showing!!

 

[Snejana Onopka]

My excitement plummeted the second I saw the full campaign on the official site:
View attachment 1249611View attachment 1249612
WHY COULDN'T WE HAVE HEELS, SEAN? HASN'T BURTON PUNISHED US ENOUGH WITH HER COMBAT BOOT FETISH???

i was rooting for him but what in the marina and diamonds - radioactive tumblr girl from 2013 who watches skins bullsh¡t is this omg lmao all is missing is a galaxy background and a mustache necklace

if he was going the unfortunate early 2010's tumblr route he could've at least pulled something else like give me s4lem - yes, i smoke crack and crystal castles' alice glass on acid mixed with gopnik trashiness, give me isabelle adjani in possession with zebra katz and njeena reddd foxxx rapping over a house beat

 

[Overindulgence]

if he was going the unfortunate early 2010's tumblr route he could've at least pulled something else like give me s4lem

I mean he enlisted Tommy Malekoff to film the teaser...who did Salem's most recent visuals lol..so maybe you are onto something....

 

[The Byronic Boy]

something about the previews gives me alexander mcqueen x h&m vibes and i don't know why

 

[StylishCynic]

Side note: I think they've pulled a "SAINT LAURENT" and unofficially dropped the "Alexander" from their title. That might not be the best idea considering that the name "McQueen" is a much more generic surname than "Saint Laurent".

This has crossed my mind as well, and I'm curious to see this confirmed. EDIT: I just checked the AM site and all the branding uses McQueen without the forename.

I worry about the negative brand perception ramifications of "McQueen" as the moniker of the house as McQ was the former diffusion line of Alexander McQueen. That line was recently shuttered as of 2022 and is still fresh in many consumers' (and SSENSE shoppers') minds.

 

[Snejana Onopka]

I mean he enlisted Tommy Malekoff to film the teaser...who did Salem's most recent visuals lol..so maybe you are onto something....

it will probably be more like the stussy visuals he did lol

 

[gallianostan]

Need to see the first collection to really get a feel for the direction!! These teaser images leave me curious… certain aspects of this could be good.. Enlisting Debra was a good move along with the nods to the tartan & the skull etc … those shoes.. the tailoring or lack there of and those cheap looking masks are not sitting well with me.. Hoping this is all tied together for a better first showing!!

maybe it's just me but i feel like the inclusion of tartan and skull really is just doing the absolute bare minimum. i don't think we should be celebrating or praising sean mcgirr for incorporating the most recognisable and basic mcqueen motifs in his debut campaign. it's like... okay... well done on expending the minimum level of effort possibly conceivable by shoving more tartan and skulls down our throats. this guy is going to be on a six or seven-figure job and should not receive credit for this kind of unimaginative laziness. those shoes are horrid and those dresses are a cheap joke. mcqueen is so much more than tartan and stupid skulls. skulls have never even featured in his actual runway collections. they were always just an easily merchandisable symbol which lee liked and it conveniently stuck thereafter. and to add insult to injury, you drop the founder's name and just roll with mcqueen? f*ck sean and f*ck pinault

rant over

 

[LadyJunon]

The forum trying to revive Lee right now:

 

[Olaffo]

I'm curling my toes and trying not to be a b*tch before his debut but that preview is soooooo unnecessary and, my god are we asking for too much, just asking for it. I just don't know what's going on but brand after brand after brad Kering strategy is such a mess and people are super confused. I hope that show will be decent but when I look at these tacky nymphs running in that forest wearing these halloweenie masks I'm having pulsing vein above my eyebrow...

 

[mteb123]

maybe it's just me but i feel like the inclusion of tartan and skull really is just doing the absolute bare minimum. i don't think we should be celebrating or praising sean mcgirr for incorporating the most recognisable and basic mcqueen motifs in his debut campaign. it's like... okay... well done on expending the minimum level of effort possibly conceivable by shoving more tartan and skulls down our throats. this guy is going to be on a six or seven-figure job and should not receive credit for this kind of unimaginative laziness. those shoes are horrid and those dresses are a cheap joke. mcqueen is so much more than tartan and stupid skulls. skulls have never even featured in his actual runway collections. they were always just an easily merchandisable symbol which lee liked and it conveniently stuck thereafter. and to add insult to injury, you drop the founder's name and just roll with mcqueen? f*ck sean and f*ck pinault

rant over

Very valid but I will still reserve my final opinion once he has shown his first show!!

 

[yslforever]

In the hypothetical (but absolutely possible) situation that Kering does actually collapse, I pray that Richemont buys them out. While I'm rooting for Arnault's revenge arc, I really don't want an actual monopoly.

I'd bet on Mayhoola

 

[jeanclaude]

That teaser looks like a bad joke. It verges cosplay by teenager girls (and their gay friend) who have discovered McQueen work last year, while browsing through IG.

And it also gives a B-series horror movie vibes. Someone should tell Sean that Alexander was more Dario Argento; and less Ed Wood...