Seán McGirr - Designer, Creative Director of Alexander McQueen

[lhhbl]

I'm somehow positive for his debut but these teasers look like school projects.
Love Debra!

 

[Cocteau Stone]

If I were Seán, and Kering at large, I would have been tempted to have done zero previews of the collection. To have it be freshly seen on the runway, live in person or via stream with photos and filming to follow toot suite would have been wiser.

Especially at a place like McQueen, any preview would be bit of a losing (or delusional) battle. Look what happened with Sabato and the previews then the showing of his first collection? Should be playing a "what you see is what you get" kind of game and just go by ear rather than formulating it all like this only to permit point of views to flourish when the collection isn't even fully presented yet.

All I can say is I don't like the masks. I just don't think they're needed. Plus, we had enough Burton collections where she obsessively obscured the model's faces.

 

[Nimsay]

well.

Ok. So. The skull masks DO give that McQueen sense of creepiness. I mean those OG shows were softcore horror. erin oconnor in a glass box with a razor oyster embroidered gown was an intense visual. So was Shalom getting spray painted by the robots. The skull masks are in that same vein.

He is hitting that sort of Hitchcockian energy. However it looks like dia de la muerte. Doesnt even look like those masks are special made which is a tragedy considering this is an advertisement centering them.

 

[gallianostan]

i've always hated skulls in fashion. even when geniuses attempt them...

 

[Nimsay]

I personally dont like skulls bc im highly superstitious. Despite being a mcQ customer ive aboided everything with a skull on it. No skull scarf no skull sunglasses no skull wallet. I want the knuckle mens bag but it has a skull on it. Im too superstitious for that. I wont even make decisions if the moon phase isnt right….

 

[tourbillions]

I personally dont like skulls bc im highly superstitious. Despite being a mcQ customer ive aboided everything with a skull on it. No skull scarf no skull sunglasses no skull wallet. I want the knuckle mens bag but it has a skull on it. Im too superstitious for that. I wont even make decisions if the moon phase isnt right….

just get a woman knuckle bag without any skulls. theyre really nice but too sensitive for my usage. 1 week in and mine was full of scratches just because of the box leather.

Already miss Burton. Why fix if nothing was broken? If they wanted edge they could have hired a different stylist or a different show director for each show. Like they did with mcq 2012 with the falling leaves in the runway. Can't be that hard to style burton's pieces in a more convincing "edgy" than these department store clothes.

 

[Lola701]

Already miss Burton. Why fix if nothing was broken? If they wanted edge they could have hired a different stylist or a different show director for each show. Like they did with mcq 2012 with the falling leaves in the runway. Can't be that hard to style burton's pieces in a more convincing "edgy" than these department store clothes.

The brand was not growing anymore…
She made the brand profitable, established it a certain capacity but now, McQueen needs to take it to the next step.
I think the recovery of Balenciaga will be more difficult than they anticipated so time to push McQueen!

 

[Scotty]

McQueen?! Now it could be Lightning.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

So far it is more McQ than Alexander McQueen. The images are a bit cheap : ohhh the girl with her broken glass dress in the wood so edgy…

Burton’s gave us something elevated yet repetitive and therefore boring.

We just need from him a bit more sparkles that’s all.

 

[pradn]

I certainly had high expectation for him, about what he would create for this brand, and convinced myself this is McQueen..McQueen..Alexander McQueen..

Hopefully there's not another Kering's ANCORA

 

[TianCouture]

when is the show?

 

[LadyJunon]

when is the show?

March 2, 20:00 CET.

 

[gallianostan]

use this to wash your eyes

 

[The Byronic Boy]

while the clothes in the previews are underwhelming so far, it's a bit interesting to see this kind of edge back in the brand. sarah's version of mcqueen was lighter and i think that made the brand certainly different to what it was during lee's original tenure. sometimes i wonder if lee hadn't died and still would be designing, would princess catherine still have chosen the brand to make her wedding dress, given a princess' wedding dress is more of a aesthetically conservative affair.

 

[gallianostan]

while the clothes in the previews are underwhelming so far, it's a bit interesting to see this kind of edge back in the brand. sarah's version of mcqueen was lighter and i think that made the brand certainly different to what it was during lee's original tenure. sometimes i wonder if lee hadn't died and still would be designing, would princess catherine still have chosen the brand to make her wedding dress, given a princess' wedding dress is more of a aesthetically conservative affair.

save for the horn of plenty, lee's mcqueen was getting more and more conservative as the years went on. he took the lightness he learned at givenchy and ran with it. there's a clear shift in the direction and sensibility of his clothes post-gucci group.

 

[Lola701]

use this to wash your eyes

A good McQueen collection!
One thing about Lee, his shoulders were sharp as a knife! He was probably one of the bests in pantsuits! He had such an unusual silhouette! Even if it was inspired by Montana and Mugler, it was defined but not overpowering!
When it comes to pantsuits and jumpsuits, wow!

The irony behind the fact that he never did Givenchy at Givenchy and he probably presented his most « Givenchy » at his own brand years later.

 

[Kishan]

The masks remind me too much of The Purge movies

 

[lookatme]

I think the tartan dress is cute. It has that feeling of 90’s McQueen - to quote @Lola701 it’s “sassy.” Burton’s McQueen was so frumpy and stuffy. It’s nice to see something flirtier from the brand.

I’m not loving the shoes, and as much as I love Frankie and Debra is great, too, I’m a little done with TBT model stunt casting. FIND A NEW STAR!

The masks are cheapy looking. And the woodland setting is kind of corny.

We’ll see.

 

[lookatme]

What we should be worried is the brief. We know that the goal is for McQueen to be a champion at Kering but what will be the strategy?

And Lee made real clothes! My favorite McQueen collection is FW2002! There was separates, lingerie, tailoring, eveningwear, showpieces! There are ways to be creative and clever on the runway while showing clothes people wants to wear!

I think that sometimes that’s what was missing from McQueen! A wow moment but not a moment when you think : I want that dress!

I think about Lee’s Isabella’s tribute collection! A fabulous show of fabulous clothes.
A lot of people love theater and drama and don’t care about fashion…

Totally agree.

I always disliked McQueen’s last few collections. The Lady Gaga period. Yuck. I hated Plato’s Atlantis. And I also hated Horn of Plenty. Unfortunately, these are the collections that the public remembers him for. The memory of him is “theatrics.”

And while that’s true to a degree - any of us who have been following fashion for a long time know that the bulk of his career was creating sharp and sexy clothes, where the showpieces and the production of the runways were in service of great pants, suits, jackets, cocktail dresses, etc. Funnily enough, I think his shoes and bags were always his weakness.

That’s my favorite design strategy. I want a narrative, I want production value and great casting and interesting music for the show. But I also need to see a real wardrobe proposition. That’s the sweet spot.

 

[gallianostan]

i loved the horn of plenty but i didn't care much for plato's atlantis. his label post-gucci group fluctuated a little bit. there were some great collections but also some fairly bad ones. but he really lost his edge around 2006.