I’m still waiting for the missing pieces of this meltdown scrubbed away from the internet.
Anyway, I want to like Sean for personal reasons. I read that Vogue piece, and being in somehow the same generations I think we share some sensibilities. I too grew up “worshipping” Lee McQueen and Hedi Slimane. I grew up watching 2000s fashion as way an outsider. I think of those years in more idealized and nostalgic manner.
As time goes by though you realize that those designers are good beyond what the imagery suggests. McQueen more than the transgression can be good tailoring—he could do outlandish because the foundation of his work still lies in craftsmanship. It’s something that I feel like Sean is missing, and why Burton somehow worked even without the grotesque undertones. He needs to design with intent, to strive for technicality, for direction. Every Lee show there’s a strong intent. You cannot just let nostalgia and cliché takeover.
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