Sewing

[Whitelinen]

Porkchopgirl, you are very talented. Those are gorgeous. I myself don't like clothes that look like DIY, but yours look high fashion.

 

[gius]

basic blocks

what do you guys think of using women's basic blocks (like for bodice, sleeve, etc.) for making guy's clothes? i was thinking they are basically the same, only that you get rid of the bust dart...

 

[Amy Louise]

Porkchopgirl (made me laugh and wonder how members come up with these names and what they mean to the person???
Wow--great job.

I don't mind handsewing too much, but only small sections. I much prefer using my machine and my serger even more that that. I do enjoy handsewing ribbon flowers, except they're small, and I usually end up stabbing myself a few times because my hands are at the narrow base where I'm stitching.

Most people really dread handstitching their knitted garment pieces together, but I don't mind that either. It's kind of relaxing.

Do you handpick your zippers? I learned that technique about 2 years ago. I keep trying to stitch zippers on the machine. Sometimes it goes well, more often though, I have a hard time. I probably should just stick with the handpicked version, but it's the challenge of conquering the damn thing that compels me to keep trying.

Criticsdarling, love that dress. You have a wonderful imagination. It looks small. Is that for you? It's perfect for the season. I like the way you mixed the unexpected eyelet with the buffalo plaid.

I hope Khoi will let us know if Santa gave him a new sewing machine and if he's tried any new handbags lately...
Amy

 

[Couture_Tribe]

Just wanna ask, would A-Line skirt be easy to make? Good for beginners?

 

[IheartNY]

WOW! Porkchopgirl your Skirt and Tank look fabulous! What kind of fabrics did you use?

 

[Amy Louise]

Excellent choice, I think. If you choose one with a zipper, that will be your biggest challenge. I also suggest you read the pattern envelope carefully--especially checking sizing, fabric recommendations and don't forget to buy the notions they include in the listing info. The size you are in real life doesn't necessarily match up to the size used by pattern companies.
Amy

 

[educo]

GIUS.. I wouldn't recommend this approach. I would purchase men's patterns from pattern companies and adjust those. The reason is because women's patterns are proportionately DIFFERENT from men's.

Go to sewingpatterns.com for a good start.

 

[porkchopgirl]

whitelinen: Thanks! I wore the outfit to go dancing one night and definitely got a few 'looks.' Nothing bad, just like, 'Oh, that's different.'

amy louise: Haha, my name is from when I was a silly teenager, and I'm too lazy to change it. I don't have a serger, just an old metal sewing machine. I like sewing machines better but I'm going to get a serger soon because it's so much faster. I've never handpicked zippers before but maybe I should because it takes me a couple tries to get it right with the machine. Have you tried zipper/invisible feet? Those make your life so much easier.

why_fashion: an a-line skirt is super easy to make--it's just two pieces. you don't even need to buy a pattern for it.

iheartny: thank you thank you thank you! i originally wanted to use wool for the skirt but didn't think the shape would hold. so--i found a peached canvas, so it does feel nice to the touch, and it's stiff enough. the tank is plain cotton. i'm really attracted to natural fabrics (cotton, silk, wool).

 

[marylauda]

I got a sewing machine for christmas, and I was wondering where I should start. I think I will start with small pillows, but once I move on to clothes, which would be easiest to begin with?

 

[kateelle]

I just bought the most gorgous fabric and my sewing machine refuses to sew it! I know the problem lies with the stretch in the fabric, (verrry stretchy) however I've tried for an hour to get it to sew, but I can't take it anymore, it just doesn't work. Does anyone know how to get my machine to sew the fabrics together, or what I need to do?

 

[Couture_Tribe]

Amy & Porkchopgirl thank you so much for the advice, I hope my skirt will be wearable enough.

 

[Amy Louise]

I just bought the most gorgous fabric and my sewing machine refuses to sew it! I know the problem lies with the stretch in the fabric, (verrry stretchy) however I've tried for an hour to get it to sew, but I can't take it anymore, it just doesn't work. Does anyone know how to get my machine to sew the fabrics together, or what I need to do?

Dear Kateelle:
I know how frustrating this can be. Sometimes, you need to keep trying different needles, different tensions, different stitch lengths and widths till you hit on the right combo. When you do get it, I suggest you put a sample of the fabric in a baggy along with an index card with notes on the type of needle, thread, tenstion and stitch info and keep it for future reference so you don't have to keep reinventing the wheel.

Knits are tricky. Nylon Lycra is the shiny stuff. Cotton Lycra is matte.

If you know what type of fabric it is, I can look it up and advise from my "More fabric Savvy" book--my bible when it comes to handling fabrics. If your fabric is Lycra Knit (with all-way stretch), according to the book, you need to:
1. Preshrink on gentle with Ivory liquid (Machine washing brings out the best in lycra. Machine dry on low.
2. Thread: good quality polyester is ideal bec. it has stretch.
3. Needle: for nylon/Lycra: 70/10 SUK ball point (I don't know what SUK means, but you can ask at the fabric store). For all other Lycra blends, use 75/11 HS Stretch.
4. Stitch Length: for exercise or dancewear, use a 2.5 mm length or triple stitch, short-length overlock stitch or small zigzag (.75 width/2.5 length)
5. Presser Foot: Standard

If your fabric is Stretch Woven (does it stretch in width only, not length? Then it's a stretch woven
1. Preshrink. (I'll tell you more on this if you determine it's a stretch woven).
2. Thread: Good-quality poilyester. Don't wind the bobbin too fast or it will stretch the thread.
3. Needle: for Wool/Lycra: 80/12H. For Microfiber/Lycra: 70/10 HM. For silk/LycraL 70/10 H.
4. Stitch Length: Small zigzag (.75 width/2 length).
5. Presser Foot: Standard

There are always the basics, too. Have you tried adjusting all tensions? Are you using polyester in both the bobbin and the top thread? Have you tried different needles? You can also try putting some tissue paper or tearaway stabilizer underneath the fabric to give the machine a better surface to grip when stitching.

If this isn't your fabric, let me know, and I'll try to get the correct info and more advice for you--either from a reference book or from some of the sewing forums. Hope I helped solve the problem.
Amy

 

[gius]

GIUS.. I wouldn't recommend this approach. I would purchase men's patterns from pattern companies and adjust those. The reason is because women's patterns are proportionately DIFFERENT from men's.

Go to sewingpatterns.com for a good start.

educo, do you think there is any difference between altering a ready-made pattern and making one from scratch? I wonder if the fit will be different. I may be able to get a book that shows where to measure, where to draw to create a pattern from a person's body measurements

 

[educo]

I would recommend getting a book that covers the basics. It will teach you how to measure and how to draft patterns. If you're doing menswear, Fundamentals of Men's Design: A guide to making tailored clothes is a good book to have. If you're doing womenswear, Patternmaking for Fashion Design is an excellent source. Get the latest edition because it does have a section on menswear and it has a section on how to check for fit. I would suggest paying for both because this initial investment will pay itself over and over again.

Now, the reason I mentioned starting from scratch and learning from books is because, you won't know how to fix a ready made pattern if you don't know how to make one yourself. It will take time and frustration believe me, but you will feel good when you come up to the point where you can make any design you want or see in the magazines, whatever. Fit is relative. It depends on what look you want to project, every pattern company has a different fit and measurement scale. I buy a lot of vintage designer patterns from ebay and I make a sample and correct the entire pattern to my specifications in terms of fit and the final look. There are always corrections to be made even when you draft you're own. This is how you learn what fit you like the best, this all trial and error. I always buy cheap 99 cents fabric from my local fabric store just to use on samples and make corrections off of them, when the corrections are done, then I splurge on really nice fabric. But it takes time. I drafted a skinny jeans pattern and it took me 15 samples to get the fit exactly the way I wanted it to be. Over time, with more experience, I won't need to do so many samples to get it right, but this is the process.

Sorry for the long response, but I just wanted to let you know my experiences with fit and patternmaking and all the frustration and accomplishment that comes along with it.

Here is the link to the books:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/08...UTF8&coliid=I8M1B04UWPFXG&colid=2EZMI84ZVUV12


Womenswear book link:

http://www.amazon.com/Patternmaking..._bbs_sr_1/002-3758899-1999260?ie=UTF8&s=books

Good luck!

 

[gius]

Thanks educo!!! Very glad to hear your experiences with it. I'd actually attemped some patternmaking before and given up for a while because I seemed to keep getting the pattern/measurements wrong So I guess it's normal that that happens. I will give it another go. Thank you for the links.
I had recently seen Kawashima's book at the library here, just older and with a different cover. I remember thinking the bodice block in the book was a basic jacket block than basic bodice block. So, I didn't take the book because I was wanting to make a sweater or something/not outerwear. I will check again !

 

[SwanDiamondRose]

porkchopgirl your 2 pieces are great. i love love the top.

i sew and i do alot of finishing by hand. i appreciate very much other handwork by others. and even if my work isn't visible it just makes me feel like i have a complete & finished object when i am done. i think the wearer often feels more special too. unless they are completely out of it

lovely work ~ ~

 

[Bonchic]

good job porkchopgirl On both the skirt & top

 

[educo]

Guis, I'll look around here in my cave and see if I can find some drafting directions for a men's bodice. I'll PM you when I find something.

 

[educo]

Guis!! I found a pattermaking book strictly for menswear. I have the womenswear version of it and I like it. It covers measuring, patternmaking and it also has size charts incase you want to take to the next level.

Here is the amazon link;

http://www.amazon.com/Practical-Gui...id=1167989335/ref=sr_11_1/002-3758899-1999260

 

[gius]

Wow, great! Thanks so much educo, I'll check these out Hopefully it's at a shop here, so I can skim through. Like I've heard patterns for t-shirts are a little different too--someone told me for a set-in sleeve, the sleeve goes straight down and it works more for a tailored jacket; but for t-shirt sleeve, it should roll off the shoulder. Maybe this will be in it