fashion
CARPE DIEM
If Maurizio Altieri were a filmmaker instead of a fashion designer he might adopt the tenets of Lars von Trier's early Dogme films. Having launched the ultimate anti-fashion label, Carpe Diem, in Perugia, Italy in 1994, he essentially gave the finger to the fashion industry, and has been doing so ever since, while steadily winning fans amongst fashion's elite. It's a fine line, and a balancing act that Altieri manages with both grace and the irony of a seasoned provocateur. Since the launch of the leather-and-footwear focused Carpe Diem, Altieri has branched out, creating a handful of different lines that, together with Carpe Diem, he calls "Continues Collection". Obviously the fashion elite are not rushing out to buy your standard-issue leather pants. When we describe Carpe Diem as a leather line, we're talking about rare skins that are treated by artisans (some buried in Afghan deserts for six months and then treated with rubber coating), and laser-cut into modern shapes.
Sister line Linea includes softer materials with a slimmer cut; Linea pieces work off a modular 3x3 system: light/medium/heavy-white/grey/black - top/middle/bottom. L'Maltieri is Altieri's knit collection, and the label also offers two bespoke lines - Sartoria and Anatomica. Here's where the Dogme bit comes in - as part of their refulsal to play the fashion game, there are "rules" to selling Continues Colltion: all items in the line must be displayed on meat hooks (so no one forgets the label started as a leather house); no items may go on sale, although Barneys does occasionally break the rules; and the line cannot be shown for editorial exposure, though we occasionally break the rules, too. Seize the day. - Amy Westervelt.