Simon Porte Jacquemus - Designer, Creative Director of Jacquemus

[perhydrol]

are there reports form people buying garments of them falling apart or wearing poorly or are you just making it up?

Sure, I'm making up all the poorly assembled bags and the fabric composition from the website.

there so many examples of his clothes being unflattering or not fitting?

His whole F/W 2023 was not flattering so... yes, I'd say there are many examples of unflattering looks coming from him. Still, even if he knows his place in fashion, and that may have been his reasoning behind rejecting all the propositions from other brands, I also think it's all hype, very little substance. Same with Coperni tho.

 

[tourbillions]

from the website.

what about actual customer reports? and who of his customers are expecting it to be finished perfectly to the level of a birkin at these price points? He is not even positioning his brand in the same league as gucci/dior/celine. His prices are more high street than anything. cant find anything more than 2500eu.

 

[Lola701]

what about actual customer reports? and who of his customers are expecting it to be finished perfectly to the level of a birkin at these price points? He is not even positioning his brand in the same league as gucci/dior/celine. His prices are more high street than anything. cant find anything more than 2500eu.

I have two pieces from him, from his Fall 2019 and 2018 collections: a leopard skirt and a short dress. It’s fine.
It’s Zara or at best Sandro’s quality. I bought a big chunky sweater for my nephew and it was fine.

The thing is that, for a lot of Gen-Z, which are his first audience, because it’s designer and it benefits from the same exposure as the big names, it is deemed as « luxury ». But that’s LVMH’s fault anyway because they turned the fashion into luxury…But I digress.

I think part of his expansion will be probably to have his own production facility. AMI’s quality is superior but at the same time, Alexandre Mattiussi is a trained, serious designer.

I don’t think this new generation of shoppers will have the same standards as us anyway. They are buying overpriced logo cotton sweaters that costs the same price as beautiful shirts from the most esteemed shirt makers.

What I regret about Simon is that there’s not a feeling of elevation in his execution.
The danger will be for him to be Alexander Wang and not Joseph Alturazza.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ HIs branding is what sells his wears. HIs customer couldn't care less about quality: If you sewed his label onto a Shein garment, they'd eat it up just the same.

I find him inoffensive: There are worse than him that are hyped— and ruining once great houses. He is admittedly a rather suavy merchandiser that’s branding his glamorous lifestyle to hustle the most nondescript of outlet clothes that always resemble sloppy fastfashion versions of others’ designs. That he’s suckered a consumer into buying his basics at a high-endish pricepoint is actually an admirable feat. He’s a solid lesson in successful marketing in the era of socials when the talent is so very limited. Kidz are unfortunately, learning from him.

What I’ve always found what’s way way way more puzzling is the thirst for this most average-looking ghey that’s dime-a-dozen at the bar from my neck of the woods… But I guess it’s his juvenile flexing and conceited ego that’s made him more attractive to them. Gen Z and alphas have the lowest of standards— in everything LMFAO

 

[AlbertNoir]

It was gorgeous, I adored everything, everything except the clothes, the bags and the shoes.
He really knows how to organize a show, the location was stunning, the models were beautiful, the colors were striking in front of that blue sky.
Imaan looked like a goddess in that red dress, and loved that Mariacarla looked so excited that she was trying to contain a smile. As an Italian and a movie lover, that location is touching.
I really don't understand why he doesn't understand that he needs a serious head designer who can translate his (simple but clear and chic) vision in stronger clothes, with a more elevated vibe. They always look so basic and poorly made...

 

[Lola701]

^^^ HIs branding is what sells his wears. HIs customer couldn't care less about quality: If you sewed his label onto a Shein garment, they'd eat it up just the same.

I find him inoffensive: There are worse than him that are hyped— and ruining once great houses. He is admittedly a rather suavy merchandiser that’s branding his glamorous lifestyle to hustle the most nondescript of outlet clothes that always resemble sloppy fastfashion versions of others’ designs. That he’s suckered a consumer into buying his basics at a high-endish pricepoint is actually an admirable feat. He’s a solid lesson in successful marketing in the era of socials when the talent is so very limited. Kidz are unfortunately, learning from him.

What I’ve always found what’s way way way more puzzling is the thirst for this most average-looking ghey that’s dime-a-dozen at the bar from my neck of the woods… But I guess it’s his juvenile flexing and conceited ego that’s made him more attractive to them. Gen Z and alphas have the lowest of standards— in everything LMFAO

But the real thing about Jacquemus is the strength of his story-telling. I think about him and Maxime Simoens. Both emerged at the same time and became darlings of French fashion people, and particularly of Mlle Agnes and Loïc Prigent who were the first to really push them.
Maxime Simoens cultivated his Saint Laurent look, made Couture-like clothes, talked like the designers « of the past », had his clothes featured on Gossip Girl and all but Jacquemus’s fraîcheur and enduring story-telling + the fact that he didn’t came from privileged background and always play the fake-modesty card, worked better.
And I think there’s something about the idea of the Jacquemus woman that has always felt relevant.

I think Olivier Rousteing is probably the only designer who receives the same type of criticism than Jacquemus. But I think with Olivier, it’s even deeper because people criticize his persona as much as his work. Jacquemus, may receive the same criticism but they are always balanced by praises of his Art Direction.

And in reality, Jacquemus has the potential to build a whole lifestyle brand that goes from fragrances to homewear (and I think he has already started).

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Not so convinced of his “storytelling”-- that's just the strength of on-trend marketing and branding, with his aspirational locales and popular clique of Jennie, Bunny and Kendall. At least with someone like Wang at the height of his hype, the simple product was still something that wasn’t too generic and nondescript: Cashmere tees and hoodies were still fresh at the time. And once the overwrought styling and branding of Oliver’s aesthetic is removed, there always were solid separates that look like he made the effort, and deserving of high fashion, even if the designs may not be my taste. And he did improve on his tailoring and construction. As you’ve mentioned, there isn’t the slightest semblance effort, of progress and maturity with Jacquemus. Nd I’m not expecting effort, progress and maturity in high design with him. I’m only expecting his merch to possess some signs of impressive quality for his high-endish pricepoints. (I liked this heavy-ribbed hooded sweater he had. But the quality wasn’t there. Filipppa K had superior quality in both material and construction, at a better priccepoint.)

But none of our constructive criticisms matter… He’s a coveted brand to his targeted customer, and he’s successful at pulling in maximum profit from minimum effort. And to many, that’s what “talent” means in this industry.

 

[LadyJunon]

So many models struggled on those stairs:

 

[LadyJunon]

Jacquemus is looking for an minority investor:

 

[Lola701]

It makes sense. He is growing his empire but I feel like the independence part with the huge expansion and having minority stake can…Be tricky.
I think he is relatively an interesting catch but I don’t think the brand has solid foundations!

Maybe Renzo Rosso or Elkann could be good partners. And Renzo could also improve his production thanks to his Staff International infrastructure.

 

[blueorchid]

US Vogue November 2024
"Simon Says"
Photographers: Matthieu Salvaing, Théo de Gueltzl
Featuring: Simon Porte Jacquemus
Models: Deva Cassel, Devyn Garcia
Fashion Editor: Julia Sarr-Jamois
Hair: Diego Da Silva
Makeup: Niamh Quinn


US Vogue Digital Edition

 

[Irere]

I've always thought of Jacquemus as the sartorial equivalent of L'Occitane en Provence: a brand selling a sort of South of France shtick at a higher price point than the run-of-the-mill mall dross, but high-end luxury? Non, pas du tout.

 

[KoV]

Lately I’ve been trying to think how I’d feel seeing a straight man comment on a female designer’s attractiveness and hold myself to the same standard I’d judge them by, when it comes to me, a gay guy, talking about a male designer.


That said, I think the lust people express for him is based on how people feel he measures up against other male designers, not how he measures up against… attractive guys in general.

 

[FashionFanatico]

just a very random observation, but his hubby looks totally unhappy to be there.

 

[LadyJunon]

Lately I’ve been trying to think how I’d feel seeing a straight man comment on a female designer’s attractiveness and hold myself to the same standard I’d judge them by, when it comes to me, a gay guy, talking about a male designer.


That said, I think the lust people express for him is based on how people feel he measures up against other male designers, not how he measures up against… attractive guys in general.

I think that the reason why Jacquemus is seen in this way is because he fits closer an ideal of masculinity without that brutish, aggressive side that lots of women (especially those with feminine interests) can often find repulsive. I think that if a male womenswear designer tried to portray himself as a hypermasculine, it wouldn't resonnate with that audience at all.

As for female designers, lots of them just don't portray themselves in a sexy manner as their industry doesn't seem to demand it. Female menswear designer prefer to present themselves more as "one of the boys", while female womenswear designers don't have to appeal to that audience at all. The industry's usual selling point for straight men has always been the models (see Tom Ford).

 

[Phuel]

I've always thought of Jacquemus as the sartorial equivalent of L'Occitane en Provence: a brand selling a sort of South of France shtick at a higher price point than the run-of-the-mill mall dross, but high-end luxury? Non, pas du tout.

Still too generous. At least the local provincial mall’s offerings are better made.

 

[Lola701]

Im curious about something, what makes people consider Jacquemus as « luxurious ». It’s quite puzzling because nothing about the brand indicate a luxury positioning.

Because if so, Isabel Marant is a luxury brand.

 

[helmutnotdead]

lol even Massimo Dutti looks and feels more luxurious than Jacquemus

 

[KoV]

I think that the reason why Jacquemus is seen in this way is because he fits closer an ideal of masculinity without that brutish, aggressive side that lots of women (especially those with feminine interests) can often find repulsive. I think that if a male womenswear designer tried to portray himself as a hypermasculine, it wouldn't resonnate with that audience at all.

As for female designers, lots of them just don't portray themselves in a sexy manner as their industry doesn't seem to demand it. Female menswear designer prefer to present themselves more as "one of the boys", while female womenswear designers don't have to appeal to that audience at all. The industry's usual selling point for straight men has always been the models (see Tom Ford).

Admittedly I have a limited perspective but the only people I know personally who have expressed any kind of sexual attraction for him are gay men, not women. But generally, I think I see your point. He looks.... like a man. Won't catch him with f*ck-a*s bob and 7-inch bedazzled acrylics. But he doesn't have the baggage of "toxic masculinity"

 

[tourbillions]

what makes people consider Jacquemus as « luxurious ».

Ive mentioned this many times, it seems people who dont like him just use this to validate their hate. He never claims to be the next chanel or the next hermes, his in-store pricing is closer to contemporary brands whose qualities can equally be as questionable (some of them).. Compared to dior's book tote, his raw prices vs store prices are probably not as atrocious.

Do people holding his le chiquito, feel like they are buying luxury? probably. Although it is more comparable to marc jacobs camera bag than other higher tier brands.