Simon Porte Jacquemus - Designer, Creative Director of Jacquemus

[Kanzai]

I get it, some of you guys like him because he's not a pretentious/intellectual designer.

He's a clever brand maker and I will give him that, but his clothes are American sportswear at best. And I don't even see his fashion POV and identity is that strong and consistent like a lot of people say.

 

[jeanclaude]

I get it, some of you guys like him because he's not a pretentious/intellectual designer.

He's a clever brand maker and I will give him that, but his clothes are American sportswear at best. And I don't even see his fashion POV and identity is that strong and consistent like a lot of people say.

You forgot the "and he is fuckable" part.

 

[mepps]

He's hot, and he makes cute, wearable (slightly overpriced) clothes.
No one in the real world wants to read a novel of skirt, or cable knit sweater.
It's fashion, it's not that deep. I can't wait for him to do a fragrance. He's gonna make a fortune.🍌

 

[Deleted member 116957]

I get it, some of you guys like him because he's not a pretentious/intellectual designer.

I'm still shook that he was described as an "intellectual designer" in the Intellectual Fashion thread in Fashion... In Depth. How on earth he was initially a creator of "intellectual" fashion is lost on me. His rise happened during my exile from fashion phase, so who knows.

 

[Lorenzogi]

Love it when He talks about arts to Christie’s where he designed the scenography of the Lalanne show 😍:
https://www.christies.com/en/stories/in-the-frame-jacquemus-68c27ea1aa1a4ff6ab0d49b73cae28d2

 

[Lola701]

I get it, some of you guys like him because he's not a pretentious/intellectual designer.

He's a clever brand maker and I will give him that, but his clothes are American sportswear at best. And I don't even see his fashion POV and identity is that strong and consistent like a lot of people say.

He can be seen as quite pretentious in his fake naïveté. I find him even more elitist than a lot of designers but he has that air of naïveté that kind of make it seem like everything happened by chance.

I think nobody see him as a threat precisely because he is limited technically.
All the designers who are deemed as pretentious are deemed that way mostly because of assumptions or appreciation towards their work.

Jacquemus is flexing his muscle in a different way by being very elitist and having a very accessible, almost pop culture thing to balance it out.
Now he is only doing shows at places where you need the approval of the estate. He is talking more about things that are maybe less obvious for his audience.

And it’s interesting because in a way the references he likes to use in his work are almost unrelated to the simple idea of « holidays » projected by his brand.

 

[tourbillions]

nah people like the brand because they could be a part of the cool kids club without having to spend all of their car budget on buying history or on a bag they waited for 2 years and couldnt even choose which color.

Remember in the past when anyone could be part of the elite without spending 4 digits on a neverfull? He is giving the same opportunity to this generation and has been spending a lot on his brands image to keep those cool kids still relevant.

 

[FashionPower]

In all honesty, if it wasn't for the entry level logo bags priced between 500 - 1k he keeps on releasing and the seasonal sale for the RTW, he would be a nobody.
He's smart at luring the dumb young cool girls Who would kill for YSL Cassandre bags and think it's the epitome of wealth / power display but can't afford them...a 700 bucks bag paid in 3 installements paid by your parents it's much cheaper and better than a 2,5k Cassandre...

 

[yslforever]

In all honesty, if it wasn't for the entry level logo bags priced between 500 - 1k he keeps on releasing and the seasonal sale for the RTW, he would be a nobody.
He's smart at luring the dumb young cool girls Who would kill for YSL Cassandre bags and think it's the epitome of wealth / power display but can't afford them...a 700 bucks bag paid in 3 installements paid by your parents it's much cheaper and better than a 2,5k Cassandre...

It used to be like 5 years ago but it's not anymore. Just two weeks ago I went for the 1st time to his Montaigne store and I was surprised to have a customer experience on par or superior to many other luxury brands, people were kind, helpful, knowledgable about their garments.
Quality and finishings have greatly improved, prices have gone up, entry-price merchandise have disappeared and I bought from this La Croisière menswear for the 1st time ever.
I don't think they are getting aspirational customers, I think they are getting luxury customers who want a little bit of fun without consequences, cause tbh you barely see it on your bank account.

 

[LadyJunon]

I think that Jacquemus' success is a combination of numerous things. First, the pricing model is in the "Goldlocks Zone" of exclusive and accessible. It's a obvious upgrade without being completely unreasonable to newer/younger customers. The core models sit in the 700 to 900 range, lower than the likes of YSL, but higher than Coach and Michael Kors. The products fall along the lines of American sportswear: pretty, practical and easy to understand. Not much of the offering falls under the umbrella of conceptual/intellectual fashion. And the final and biggest piece of the puzzle, the marketing. The sunny, idyllic, Southern French holiday makes the brand stick out amongst the plethora of younger brands that are more urban-focused. I'd argue that Jacquemus is very generic in terms of the actual use of each party's skill, but it's effective.

 

[Lola701]

I think that Jacquemus' success is a combination of numerous things. First, the pricing model is in the "Goldlocks Zone" of exclusive and accessible. It's a obvious upgrade without being completely unreasonable to newer/younger customers. The core models sit in the 700 to 900 range, lower than the likes of YSL, but higher than Coach and Michael Kors. The products fall along the lines of American sportswear: pretty, practical and easy to understand. Not much of the offering falls under the umbrella of conceptual/intellectual fashion. And the final and biggest piece of the puzzle, the marketing. The sunny, idyllic, Southern French holiday makes the brand stick out amongst the plethora of younger brands that are more urban-focused. I'd argue that Jacquemus is very generic in terms of the actual use of each party's skill, but it's effective.

But also, maybe the most important thing, it’s a fashion brand. Jacquemus came up with a fashion intention. It’s HF, maybe not to everyone standard but it’s fashion from a designer.
A lot of young designers are focusing on the designs yes but not so much about the rest. In that case, his experience in retail gave him a real understanding of the system…From the show to the store, literally. Maybe his outcome would have been different if his career was made as a design assistant in a studio.

It used to be like 5 years ago but it's not anymore. Just two weeks ago I went for the 1st time to his Montaigne store and I was surprised to have a customer experience on par or superior to many other luxury brands, people were kind, helpful, knowledgable about their garments.
Quality and finishings have greatly improved, prices have gone up, entry-price merchandise have disappeared and I bought from this La Croisière menswear for the 1st time ever.
I don't think they are getting aspirational customers, I think they are getting luxury customers who want a little bit of fun without consequences, cause tbh you barely see it on your bank account.

Aspirational customers gets caps, tshirts and sweatshirts lol.

I think the fact that Jacquemus can win over a customer like you, used to HF, is great. It shows that his strategy of elevation can work.

I was interested in one of the Marylin looks from his collection. You made me interested in going to the store instead of a department store next time im in that area.

What did you purchased? Pants? Outerwear? A shirt?

 

[tourbillions]

In all honesty, if it wasn't for the entry level logo bags priced between 500 - 1k he keeps on releasing and the seasonal sale for the RTW, he would be a nobody.
He's smart at luring the dumb young cool girls Who would kill for YSL Cassandre bags and think it's the epitome of wealth / power display but can't afford them...a 700 bucks bag paid in 3 installements paid by your parents it's much cheaper and better than a 2,5k Cassandre...

As i wrote, back in the days 700$ would have afford you something from the then-"top" brands.

Neverfulls used to be below 1000$... so i dont know where the hostility towards a 700$ bag is coming from. The current entry-level prices of the current top brands are a problem. That cassandrei bag did not cost more than 3x more to produce. Probably not even more than 1.5x

Even a lanvin or balenciaga sneaker back then would have been only around 500$ and back then both were one of the it brands, and in a much higher tier than where jacquemus is positioning himself atm.

 

[Deleted member 116957]

luring the dumb young cool girls Who would kill for YSL Cassandre bags and think it's the epitome of wealth / power display but can't afford them...a 700 bucks bag paid in 3 installements paid by your parents it's much cheaper and better than a 2,5k Cassandre...

What’s your beef with the YSL Cassandre bags, seriously? How did they hurt you?

 

[Salvatore]

It used to be like 5 years ago but it's not anymore. Just two weeks ago I went for the 1st time to his Montaigne store and I was surprised to have a customer experience on par or superior to many other luxury brands, people were kind, helpful, knowledgable about their garments.
Quality and finishings have greatly improved, prices have gone up, entry-price merchandise have disappeared and I bought from this La Croisière menswear for the 1st time ever.
I don't think they are getting aspirational customers, I think they are getting luxury customers who want a little bit of fun without consequences, cause tbh you barely see it on your bank account.

Like @Lola701 I am curious now to go to the shop on Avenue Montaigne based on your experience. I last saw his stuff in Le Bon Marche and it was so stiff, but I am going on a holiday and cannot find easy, yet fun things to wear. I cannot believe I am considering buying from him.

 

[tourbillions]

Like @Lola701 I am curious now to go to the shop on Avenue Montaigne based on your experience. I last saw his stuff in Le Bon Marche and it was so stiff, but I am going on a holiday and cannot find easy, yet fun things to wear. I cannot believe I am considering buying from him.

Welcome to le jacquemus. And reading the brief ull probably fill up your le cart

 

[Salvatore]

Welcome to le jacquemus. And reading the brief ull probably fill up your le cart

I know 😭 I'll report back if I lose my pride and go to purchase things.

 

[yslforever]

But also, maybe the most important thing, it’s a fashion brand. Jacquemus came up with a fashion intention. It’s HF, maybe not to everyone standard but it’s fashion from a designer.
A lot of young designers are focusing on the designs yes but not so much about the rest. In that case, his experience in retail gave him a real understanding of the system…From the show to the store, literally. Maybe his outcome would have been different if his career was made as a design assistant in a studio.


Aspirational customers gets caps, tshirts and sweatshirts lol.

I think the fact that Jacquemus can win over a customer like you, used to HF, is great. It shows that his strategy of elevation can work.

I was interested in one of the Marylin looks from his collection. You made me interested in going to the store instead of a department store next time im in that area.

What did you purchased? Pants? Outerwear? A shirt?

A 3/4 sleeves shirts with a single palm tree printed in butter yellow
The same one with full sleeve in white with a palm tree printed too
and two wide-legs pants in glazed cotton, both high-waisted, one with pleats one without, one black and one cream.
They indeed look boxy and stiff on the racks, not so much worn irl, and anyway there are really giving resort vibes so that's ideal because duh I am going to a resort.
I did not check any womens RTW or accessories though.

 

[Salvatore]

A 3/4 sleeves shirts with a single palm tree printed in butter yellow
The same one with full sleeve in white with a palm tree printed too
and two wide-legs pants in glazed cotton, both high-waisted, one with pleats one without, one black and one cream.
They indeed look boxy and stiff on the racks, not so much worn irl, and anyway there are really giving resort vibes so that's ideal because duh I am going to a resort.
I did not check any womens RTW or accessories though.

Oufff I hate that you are selling it to me. I cannot believe I really am going to the Right Bank to look at Jacquemus. Maybe that's why there was a mini hailstorm yesterday in Paris. 😂

 

[tourbillions]

Oufff I hate that you are selling it to me. I cannot believe I really am going to the Right Bank to look at Jacquemus. Maybe that's why there was a mini hailstorm yesterday in Paris. 😂

we are waiting for the updates!

theres a yellow bowling shirt im eyeing on and.. unfortunately that turismo bag too 😭

 

[Salvatore]

we are waiting for the updates!

theres a yellow bowling shirt im eyeing on and.. unfortunately that turismo bag too 😭

I'm pep talking myself for the journey and experience. A Saint Germain Spritz will be had later. 😭