At last week’s Accessorie Circuit at the Show Piers and AccessoriesTheShow at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center here, designers presented everything from wooden jewelry and layered necklaces for spring to somber black and Russian-inspired looks for fall. The large numbers of trends and their broad range made it somewhat difficult for buyers, and even vendors, to focus.
... a new trend in fashion jewelry for fall was the movement toward a sort of melancholy femininity and the strong use of black stones and beads.
“I was inspired by the somber palette on the runways this season,’’ said Roxanne Assoulin, designer of Lee Angel. “After binging on embellishment and bright color, you have to fast.”
Assoulin offered black and midnight blue bib necklaces intertwined throughout with velvet ribbons, intricate chains and silk flowers.
Gerard Yosca, who offered a scalloped fake-ivory pendant on a long black cord, said, “[The look is] really Victorian mourning jewelry. Black has been strong because it’s not dumb black. It’s got an iridescence or a touch of dark blue.”
Erickson Beamon showed a complete collection of black jewelry. Faceted jet and beads were formed into elaborate swag necklaces, with a lacing of rich black leather roses. Angélique de Paris continued the black theme with roses in a resin and sterling silver ring, with two rosettes. Nine West showed vintage-looking black and crystal paste-like earrings at their showroom.
Although some of the black and moody pieces might be seen as depressing, vendors said business continues to boom. Jeweler Alexis Bittar, who touched on the Victorian theme with his Lace collection in which the jeweler transformed strands of seed pearls to resemble long lace earrings and dainty chokers, said he is close to signing a lease for a new store in Manhattan’s West Village and that sales are up from last year.
Some designers were still showing bohemian looks that were strong for spring.
Hobo handbag shapes in soft, crinkled lambskin, as offered by Junior Drake and Gustto. Gustto’s version, inspired by a chic Parisian woman from the Seventies, was gray, with light brown piping and polished quarter-sized grommets at its corners. Handbag designer Lauren Merkin showed an unconstructed shoulder bag in dark teal velvet.
More peppy and optimistic looks were offered at Eliza Grey, whose canvas tote was trimmed in a variety of brights, including lime and aqua, each with the company’s signature jeweled brooch in assorted shapes like elephants and starfish.
Belts were maintaining the momentum seen for spring. Kooba launched leather belts in shades of cognac, chocolate and tobacco brown, with brushed gold grommets, its first new category since handbags. B-Low The Belt showed simple leather belts with batik and tooled detailing, and Helen Welsh offered leather belts with crystal studded buckles
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I have always found the victorian jewellry very appealing, and wear it often as it is. much more suited to me. I've recently been pulling out my old lockets, as well as some of my russian enamelled jewellry. it looks very unique and pretty when everyone else is wearing great big colourful statement pieces and ethnic jewellry.
at least the trend gets there B)
