As You Like It
Proponent of Plaid
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softgrey said:so lena...if it's going more towards a 'utilitarian' factory worker look...(which, again i think of as much later..but..no matter)....then wouldn't that mean less frills and then also less accessories......
is that it?...
i'm really interested and trying to understand...
Back in the 1880-/90s there was a big renewal of interest in what they considered "primitive" handicrafts, as a reaction against so many factory-made, amss-produced goods. In regards to fashion, this meant that there was a big revival in smocking, hand-tucking, and "rustic" embroidery, and the fashion extremist group of the time, the Aesthetics, devised an entirely fresh style of dresses which were loosely fitting, frequently of earthy tones, which featured a great deal of hand-wrought trimming and finishing. Accessories were a big point of fashion among the Aesthetes, especially when made from organic materials like carved wood and ivory or made in very traditional ways. Think Pier 1 hippies, 115 years ago. Very middle-class progressive. Paul Poiret was the biggest designer to come out of this influence, though Mario Fortuny's fabrics and gowns were hightly sought after, and Liberty of London had a range of printed silks and cottons that appealed highly to the Aesthetic crowd.
My favorite architectural style arose from this era, as well. The Arts & Crafts, and its American interpretation Craftsman, which relied on a pared down appearance with minimal surface decoration, relying on quality of materials and workmanship for a great deal of its beauty. Clever convenience became a byword, as well, and many Craftsman-era houses had cool built-in furnishings. In many, many houses, you enter the front door and face the stairs up to the second floor. Built into the alcove underneath the stairs is a bench so you can sit down and take off your shoes. This was when the fitted kitchen began to come into its own, and many builders thoughtfully included built-in bookcases in the living rooms and built-in washstand nooks or vanities in bedrooms. The houses of the Arts & Crafts era were often finished out with things like stained-glass trim over parlor windows, rustic carvings on exposed wooden beam ends, intricate parquetry floors, and decorative tile work in the kitchen and bath. The main thing was to display the builders' craftsmanship without excesive reliance on gingerbread trim and elaborate pre-stamped tinwork.
Oddly, however, among the working-classes, people still wanted as fancy-looking of clothes as they could get. You should read Ladies of Labor, Girls of Adventure, which explains the turn-of-the-century working-class aesthetic perfectly and makes those heady days of factory riots and women's lib protestors so vivid.
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