Stefano Pilati - Designer

[Deleted member 164735]

With just a little bit more humility though…

Many of designers of that caliber lack it though

 

[Lola701]

Many of designers of that caliber lack it though

Considering that the ego was there before the caliber and that the body of work is not really up to the level of ego, Stefano should tone it down. But I guess the new found interest from social media only made it worst at this point.

 

[Deleted member 164735]

Considering that the ego was there before the caliber and that the body of work is not really up to the level of ego, Stefano should tone it down. But I guess the new found interest from social media only made it worst at this point.

I thought he calmed down since the Zegna and YSL days actually but that’s just my observation

 

[jeanclaude]

Those facial tattoos... 🤢

 

[reese06]

i always loved his YSL and have pieces from Random Identities although I did think he lost a bit of his touch recently.
He is a "true" designer

I was unaware of his ego until now reading these posts. How did it manifest? Is he just an A hole in general?

 

[Lola701]

i always loved his YSL and have pieces from Random Identities although I did think he lost a bit of his touch recently.
He is a "true" designer

I was unaware of his ego until now reading these posts. How did it manifest? Is he just an A hole in general?

He is a good designer. Someone that I respect and I think his triptyque at YSL (FW2007 + SS2008 + FW2008) is probably one of the best ever but he is one of those who has a very high view of himself when in reality, he should be more humble.

I think it’s probably that « intellectualism » actually. Coming from Milan, from Prada and the Armani thing. He is one of the « intellectuals ». The ego has always been there, even during the Tom Ford days at YSL. He toned it down a little bit when he became the main man at YSL because you can’t compete with Pierre Bergé.

He did a lot for YSL and Pinault should be thankful to him. Unfortunately, Pinault kinda sabotaged him when he got let go.

When he moved to Berlin to become a rebel after years of living near the Élysée Palace, I though he wanted to touch the ground. When he got his face tattoos and launched Random Idenities, I though it was a midlife crisis coupled with a fresh start desire. Then he started to mingle with Adrian Joffe and I realized that he was still his old self. The last nail in the coffin was that last talk of him in Italy.

The ego is still at a all time high and I still find him a bit ungrateful towards Tom.

 

[Deleted member 164735]

i always loved his YSL and have pieces from Random Identities although I did think he lost a bit of his touch recently.
He is a "true" designer

I was unaware of his ego until now reading these posts. How did it manifest? Is he just an A hole in general?

He’s a drama queen but very educated and is a very warm once he allows you to get closer to him

 

[Deleted member 167090]

Maybe talented designers are more like artists who have their egos and prides in their work which is very common in the art field where fashion is on the borderline. They want to be treated as "artists" whose diva personalities are part of their appeals. At the end of the day, they have to be in good hands of good management like those Hollywood talent agents dealing with their stars, but everything nowadays is corporate at its core and suits just don't know or aren't willing to deal with them. I think what I learn most from this forum is knowing about perspectives of creative people of the industry which is out of my business background even though I draw sketches and research like them but to facilitate the production process. I don't mind divas as long as they are talented or simply they can sell, but an absolutely no to just being a diva for no purpose.

 

[yslforever]

Working under his own name for a L'Oréal Ambassador :

 

[Creative]

I need him at a Lanvin. I think he would be great if he did things like in the 00s. But I guess he’s kinda finished.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I need him at a Lanvin. I think he would be great if he did things like in the 00s. But I guess he’s kinda finished.

As much as I applauded the choice of Peter Copping instead of a young gen-z appropriate talent (I thought Bruno Sialelli was a complete disaster much like Lapidus before him), I thought it was a missed opportunity to hire someone like Pilati or Theyskens, whose name still has some weight but who are no longer considered for the more established houses.

 

[Lola701]

^^
Pilati I agree but Theyskens having some weight in 2025?
I feel like at this point I’m sounding like a hater when I’m not but Olivier is like a legacy act at this point. It’s a nostalgia-led conversation when talking about him nowadays. He is not even in the scene as he was in the past.

Are people really checking for him?

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Frankly, his silly clownish presence these days seems a manifestation of his fading creative efforts. That Zara collab was so forgettable attempt at his superior YSL days. I doubt he’s capable of recapturing his better days even if offered a fabled label to lead. Some talents are of a certain time, and his time has passed. He really needs to check himself.

The yearning for Olivier is admittedly very much seeped in nostalgia— and a certain romanticized hype from a younger gen. But it’s also strongly deserved: He’s so impressively versatile and even possessed of a no-nonsense pragmatism, going from century-hopping hopeless romantic couturier for Nina Ricci; to easygoing, accessible but luxe leather sportswear for Theory; to 1970s royal decadence for Azzaro. And none of this embarrassing, insufferable, obnoxious faux-intellectual-artist-as-fashion-diva nonsense, to boot. And on an unabashedly thirst-level, Olivier is still looking fine.

 

[tourbillions]

I think its cool to name theyskens because he was fashion insiders' darling. But in reality his work didnt really stand the test of time. It doesnt help that nina ricci/rochas/azzaro are all irrelevant at this point. And theory has been making the rounds in discount stores....

His last collection with the shiny patch works had some gems but at the end, i dont think it made any long-lasting impact.

He is a testament that talent does not always mean success. Specially compared to someone like hedi who is more of a stylist and fashion-wise not really up to par. Even more so compared to someone like jacquemus.

 

[Kanzai]

I love Pilati just as much as I love Theyskens (maybe Stefano a little more, since at least he did menswear and there’s something in him that always echoed the spirit of Armani haha). But I have to say Theyskens earns more of my respect, at least in 2025. He didn’t come into fashion with an inflated ego or some insufferable attitude, and more importantly, he’s not trying to prove he’s still 'relevant' by melting into the pathetic zeitgeist of the current fashion scene.

I’d still be happy to see either of them welcomed back, they deserve it way more than that Tisci person for example. Just… not under any LVMH or Kering label, please. Or better yet, imagine them as a co-duo designers ( Yes, Ik how stupidly delulu that sounds ).

 

[tourbillions]

i think theyskes is more like lacroix. beautiful clothes, beautiful technique, peak couture but there's really no commercial viability for their work. He should try designing ballet costumes.

i hate meriting people simply because they are nice... In many industries the nice ones with no ego fade. unfortunatley

 

[Kanzai]

^ Personally, I’ve never really considered Theyskens a couturier. He’s always struck me as the versatile type, more aligned with designers like Ghesquière, Pilati, Dries, Yohji, A.F. Vandevorst etc rather than someone in the mold of a pure couturier like Lacroix.

 

[Phuel]

Stefeno’s better days absolutely produced some superior fashions. HIs YSL men’s suiting is couture-for-men level of precision and luxe. That sort of standard simply does not exist in RTW anymore. Wished I had snatched up just a few more back in his superior days.

In terms of Olivier not setting the industry on fire again, his hype has passed, unfortunately. But more than anything, he’s a survivor still plugging along on his own terms— and without the support of corporate money, nor industry hype. That he scraped together a modest collection of designs wrangled together with scraps for his own label, is both a testament to his enduring talent, his resourcefulness and his endearing humility. Not expecting him to lead any of the mega-corporate brands, just hoping he’s able to find a secure niche for the long run, and plug away with his Rumpelstiltskins creative and technical skills, like Sharon Wauchob or Yohji, both of whom may be irreverent in terms of the current state of fashion, but they will endure the test of time.

(Hedi is an odd phenomenon. In terms of innovation and creativity in design aesthetic, the best of Olivier and Stefano absolutely outclasses him. But Hedi’s always been an a far superior designer for men than he is for women. That he’s become such a force for both menswear and womenswear despite lacking the creative vision for women, just showcases how much of natural born masterclass marketer he also is.)

 

[tourbillions]

if pilati is still in his techno boy era, i prefer him stay at random identities. And i do like what he does there since its true to what he wanted it to be. And every now and then there would be beautiful outerwear in his brand. unfortunately the distributions a bit poor and its hard to get it where i am. maybe i wont even mind seeing him at somewhere like balenciaga where at this point he can do both his luxurious take and his streetwear.

 

[Kanzai]

Everyone in the industry loves Theyskens , that’s just a fact. But sadly, the level of hype around him is no longer enough to attract new clients, even though I honestly don’t want to see him heading any fashion house other than his namesake label. It’s rly hard to survive in this era without relentless gimmicks, blatant Margiela rip-offs, or some kind of faux intellectual posturing zzz.