Tailoring and Tailors

[MUXU]

in bespoke, the cutter dont exactly draft the pattern all over again for most clients, they do use blocks than alters it, some clients with deformed shape do need to draft a whole new pattern, some cutters dont use blocks and just draw the pattern right onto the fabric if they are highly experienced. from what i know, they dont make toile...but i might be wrong.

nice sites daniellat

 

[fashionified]

I don't know what the difference is with women's and men's tailoring. Maybe use of materials? Techniques? I am going to research more about that.

the difference between women's and men's tailoring is basically in the pattern making. men and women have a completely different kind of pattern, and measurement. and we have different way modifying those patterns. they will have different darts and seamlines and such. because womens and mens body are different and we want to emphasise different part of the body. the materials that we use also different, there are some materials that can be used both ways, but most are different.

i know this because i love tailoring and structured pieces, and im doing both menswear and womenswear. menswear suit is more complicated than womenswear, doing menswear is actually more difficult than doing womenswear, because there's a lot of things to consider, and a lot more detailing. the lingin would be different, the cut of the suit, the pockets, the shape, the shouder pad and all these, there are a lot of small details to be considered in menswear.

 

[Fuuma]

This is a pretty good blog when it comes to discussing construction technique and tailoring:
http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/

 

[gius]

I love those details! Thank you^


And.. A Guide to Bespoke - Savile Row
thread in Shop til you drop

http://www.thefashionspot.com/forums/f46/guide-bespoke-savile-row-11331.html


courtesy of eugenius

 

[awwwwfuq]

Any tailors/tailors in training???

I'm looking for friends around the NYC area.

 

[awwwwfuq]

i want to rework vintage clothes from this really cheap store.

 

[Metronomic]

Tailoring is a very different beast than fashion design. In general you will apprentice in the basics for about 4 years and then move up.
Here is an EXCELLENT site for and by tailors, the only one of it's kind-
http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/

 

[Metronomic]

Heres a link to the BBC documentary series "Savile Row". It's an incredible look into the world of bespoke tailoring and the struggles they are facing in a world dominated by fashion. Good stuff. The entire series is on this page-
http://www.youtube.com/user/bequist#p/u/129/WD9XVpaRcZU

 

[Metronomic]

in bespoke, the cutter dont exactly draft the pattern all over again for most clients, they do use blocks than alters it, some clients with deformed shape do need to draft a whole new pattern, some cutters dont use blocks and just draw the pattern right onto the fabric if they are highly experienced. from what i know, they dont make toile...but i might be wrong.

nice sites daniellat

In Bespoke tailoring (which is the equivalent of haute couture for men) A new pattern is always made for each suit from the individual clients block. There are MANY different kinds of suits and obviously one pattern wouldn't "cut it". "Made To Measure" suits, which are cheaper, are made from standard patterns that are altered to fit the client. And you are correct, tailors do not use toiles, they use the rough cut jacket and pant for the fitting.