Thom Browne F/W 07.08 NYC

ETROsexualJ said:
I guess no one does, especially those who actually nominated him and ultimately voted for Thom to win the 2006 CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year award.
I dont respect the CFDA at all, last night I was invited to this little event honoring Robert Lee Morris..ROBERT LEE MORRIS. I might go to the CFDA gala though, gives me a reason to dress up.

However, I did fall for the white shirt w/ those little puffy dots (cant explain it any better) the price wasn't that bad on it, quite reasonable, actually. It's those $700 polos that are mindboggling.
 
Diorling said:
Haha, yea, Ive never seen anyone wear it because it SUCKS. Noone w/ any clue or sense of fashion would touch Thom Browne.

I know quite a few guys who with a lot sense of fashion DO wear Thom Browne.
 
Casius said:
Personally, I just think people like/dislike Thom's clothing for the wrong reasons and I think media has a big thing to do with it. Everyone creates quite a stir on Thom's raised hems, short sleeves, etc. but the real kicker with the line is how well made and tailored it is, that's what I really think he should get credit for.
As for his overall aesthetic, well, it really isn't my fortay but I like that Thom's line has brought more attention to good men's tailoring, whether that be good or bad attention.

I don't know...quality tailoring doesn't seem new to me, it's especially not anything to be excited over. The only thing Browne has going for him is his "innovative" cuts...that really don't deserve the term. Real innovation in fashion benefits the wearer aesthetically...and (in my opinion, anyway) most of Thom's clothes do just the opposite.
 
if you guys check out the link in my signature I put up a post about Thom Browne. I'd like some feedback (please comment!)
 
I think its interesting that you compare and contrast the two. While they don't share the same aesthetic, I certainly think both are interested in the role sensuality plays in a man's life. Where Thom interests me the most is that he perhaps is drawing on the laylines and history of menswear. The board knows his clothes are up in London at the V&A: the selections are quite mesmerizing and engaging, I had my nose pressed up against the glass, the details are unreal. And yet it would be dishonest to say they weren't challenging to wear but only because they seem incongruent with the hustle and bustle of modern life (which even he seemed to recognize with the video he presented; much of what the models were doing seemed like religious ritual, they were isolated, divorced and the clothes fit those tasks). Tom's peacock (at Gucci) was much slicker...hmm. I almost want to say that even with his menswear, Tom was designing for women while with Mr. Browne, it really is a men's club. That's where he could very well be the most effective, it's his gaze, his point of view. It almost seems there are no women in that world, kind of like how people say Marc Jacobs and Marni are about women dressing for other women, not about seduction, per se. That's what feels fresh to me about it. The end result isn't always effective but its his point of view that could very well keep in the game long enough for him to...reach a balence.
 
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ilaughead said:
Real innovation in fashion benefits the wearer aesthetically...and (in my opinion, anyway) most of Thom's clothes do just the opposite.

No offense; but, I'm going to assume you haven't tried on Thom Browne...and beyond that worn it out in public.

When you do the latter...you feel completely liberated. I've never felt more comfortable (physically and mentally) in ANYTHING.
 
birdofparadise said:
I think its interesting that you compare and contrast the two. While they don't share the same aesthetic, I certainly think both are interested in the role sensuality plays in a man's life. Where Thom interests me the most is that he perhaps is drawing on the laylines and history of menswear. The board knows his clothes are up in London at the V&A: the selections are quite mesmerizing and engaging, I had my nose pressed up against the glass, the details are unreal. And yet it would be dishonest to say they weren't challenging to wear but only because they seem incongruent with the hustle and bustle of modern life (which even he seemed to recognize with the video he presented; much of what the models were doing seemed like religious ritual, they were isolated, divorced and the clothes fit those tasks). Tom's peacock (at Gucci) was much slicker...hmm. I almost want to say that even with his menswear, Tom was designing for women while with Mr. Browne, it really is a men's club. That's where he could very well be the most effective, it's his gaze, his point of view. It almost seems there are no women in that world, kind of like how people say Marc Jacobs and Marni are about women dressing for other women, not about seduction, per se. That's what feels fresh to me about it. The end result isn't always effective but its his point of view that could very well keep in the game long enough for him to...reach a balence.

you should comment on my blog!
 
Diorling said:
I dont respect the CFDA at all, last night I was invited to this little event honoring Robert Lee Morris..ROBERT LEE MORRIS. I might go to the CFDA gala though, gives me a reason to dress up.

However, I did fall for the white shirt w/ those little puffy dots (cant explain it any better) the price wasn't that bad on it, quite reasonable, actually. It's those $700 polos that are mindboggling.

Absolutely correct....Sean Combs winning the award...me smells the influence of the Anna Wintour friendship....
 
I certainly understand the difference fabric and manufacturing can make in a garment's price, but whenever I see a piece of Thom Browne clothing at Colette, I can't help but think that there is absolutely no justification for what he is asking.
 
ETROsexualJ said:
In regards to which garments?

The tailoring part, in particular. No need to compare in terms of styling and aesthetic, but I find it rather intimidating that his blazers retail for almost the double (and sometimes even more) of what Dior Homme or Saint Laurent would cost. The import might add to the fact, but it's still no denial that the positioning of his collection is a lot higher than any other menswear designer (and I am not comparing to entry-price Prada or D-Squared sportswear).

It might be the case that a smaller, high quality production scale is effectively more expensive to maintain than that of a big house with lots of quantities, but even then, the pricing of a garment is somewhat limitated when you do your calculations, when you buy the fabric and when you have your clothing sewn.

As far as I have seen, the shirts were OK-priced, though.
 
His suits are handmade in Brooklyn.....whereas Prada, Dior Homme, etc are machine made in Italy with fused lapels. But, I won't be one to argue that say in a $4,000 suit you are paying about $500-$1,000 for exclusivity and name. Likewise on a $1500 Dolce & Gabbana (or Dior or Prada or Gucci or Valentino or YSL) you are paying about $500 for the name.
 
tricotineacetat said:
I certainly understand the difference fabric and manufacturing can make in a garment's price, but whenever I see a piece of Thom Browne clothing at Colette, I can't help but think that there is absolutely no justification for what he is asking.

Let's say there are many different market segments.
It is human nature that people love gossiping about something they can see but cannot reach...
 
That's why I was trying to avoid the comparison with a Prada suit that is made from mediocre-quality, entry-price, Italian fabric and sewn in a rushed, 'industrialized' manner (which I agree, would be lightyears different to the Thom Brownes I have seen in person). You can actually have decent quality production at a more reasonable pricing than Thom Browne if you put a decent amount of attention about the development of your clothing, especially with the communication with your production partner.
 
But it is a moot point to try and tell us designer customers that we can have something of better quality for a cheaper price if you have it made from a local tailor etc.
 
I find this to be a very weak justification for a designer clothing article to be desirable if it is unreasonably expensive or effectively unreachable.

Just as I was trying to explain, there is a huge difference between those big corporate luxury goods brands like Prada that offer mediocre quality at a lower pricepoint, compared to smaller businesses with smaller productions and stricter design/product integrity (Matthew Ames or Boudicca come to mind).

I think it might very well be the case that the US market is functioning a little bit different than the European, I always see this when I actually compare, let's say, Belgian designer models like Dries, Ann or younger people like Christian Wijnants or Bruno Pieters towards whats popping up in the US, á la Rodarte, Proenza Schouler or Marchesa - You hardly ever find any of these collections to be represented in Europe, not to speak of the more established ones like Oscar De La Renta or Narciso Rodriguez.
 
And by comparing the two models I was just mentioning before, I meant to point out the decided push in the US for very luxe clothing lines with a strong weight towards cocktail hour, contrasted with the Belgians that tend to be both less formal and overtly 'luxe'.

Now that I had a little bit time to consider, one of the very few US designers that is distributed more widely and with success in Europe would be Diane Von Fürstenberg. You can probably tell whay that would be the case.
 
ETROsexualJ said:
That didn't go anywhere, it is still all available at Bergdorf and the Tribeca store.

It's funny how no one here has "ever seen anyone wear Thom Browne" and yet you are all so quick to condem it.

no no no not so quick to condemn it; i've tried on quite a few TB items over the past couple seasons and hence my conclusion. but really, the craftsmanship is beautiful... what a waste with such ugly cut and styling...
 

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