UK Vogue August 2024 : Suki Waterhouse by Colin Dodgson

London is awash with money from all four corners of the world, and their children are being sent to those pricey independent schools, because that's the template for accessing the wider opportunities available to people on that level. They are - they will be - the new networks, doing each other favours, handing each other awards.

Swapping one person for another doesn't fundamentally change that world of privilege. The fundamentals will still be there, only the faces change.

Fresh faces are always welcome in fashion - would there be fashion without them? But anyone thinking that privilege has been done away with just hasn't caught up with its new clothing.
 
^fair enough, I never meant to suggest that EE's Vogue ever did away with the privileged, I mean, that is basically baked into the DNA of the magazine. It's all about the establishment in the end.
Though I did find the kind of people he chose to highlight less stale than Suki and girls of her type who were entirely overrepresented in Alexandra's Vogue.
 
See the full story in the new issue, on newsstands Tuesday 16 July.

So two weeks from the date the cover is posted on Vogue's insta, we'll get to see the actual copy. That's half the lifespan of a monthly print issue, and an eternity in terms of the internet.

What's the rationale for Vogue starting to post the next cover so early that it bisects the time in which the previous issue is available to buy? Is it a desire to have something being released every fortnight, whether it be a cover reveal online or a print edition in the shops?
 
^his version of it at least made a change from the usual 'Princess XYZ of wannabe-Bohemia/random model we discovered who's really the granddaughter of the Earl of Whatever/seemingly random blonde who is really the childhood friend of an editor's daughter and they met at their pricey independent school, tee hee ' aesthetic of the set described above. I have a lot of criticisms of his Vogue years and how disappointing the magazine was but this particular aspect is not one of them.

the Sloane is a brit staple, it's kind of the equivalent of the bourgeoisie - the molecular opposite of CSM grad shows aesthetic on the other end of the spectrum. Under the guise of Vogue but it's really more Tatler.
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dailymail

Having her 1 cover apart from Twigs is a bit weird though.
 
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^I don't have a problem with the classic Sloanes who tend to own what they are, the stealth Sloanes like Suki and her ilk are the ones who have me going 'stop trying to make fetch happen' lol
 
Shulman's Vogue had strong Sloanenergy, I used to buy them begrudgingly for fomo when i was a teen simply to add to the collection but then I knew better and stopped. Even Vogue US had a sloane-y tone to it in small ripples, that's how I explained Plum Sykes anyways and Anna's obsession with Sienna Miller.
Edie used to give me stealth Sloane vibe when she had long hair but then she turned out to be a great model.
but yeah, only tried to shorten the term for you. I get what you mean.
 
^ yeah the classic Sloanes/stealth Sloanes who have style (Princess Diana, Plum Sykes, Stella Tennant, Daphne Guinness etc.) are fine by me, at least they were somewhat interesting/entertaining?

In comparison, Suki's whole wannabe-boho-London-It Girl thing came off as inauthentic and sets off everybody's "who, her?" bullsh*t detector. Like everything about her persona seems like it's derivative of someone else but Alexandra spent yearssss trying to make her happen because she really thought Suki was the next Sienna - young posh blonde who liked dressing in 60s/70s style, famous older bf/s - only it never really took (much as I detested 2004 boho I have to admit Sienna had something going and ended up setting the nu-Sloane template, though in her case the annoying 'posh girl playing at looking boho' part was somewhat offset within that same decade by the level of hell she was put through in the public eye i.e. some evidence of life/genuineness)
 
Remember when Daphne Guinness was everywhere in fashion - she appeared on the cover of The Sunday Times Style supplement last weekend, and it felt like I hadn't seen her in a magazine for years.
 
^Daphne is honestly fascinating to me - loads of money and not hiding it/her pedigree (can't get much more rarefied than being the granddaughter of a Mitford sister) at all and actually used it for interesting things/projects, I remember when she bought Isabella Blow's entire wardrobe and saved it from being scattered to collectors/put it up as an exhibition it was basically the fashion rescue of the century.
 
I forget that they are together, didn't know they had a baby. (her and Robert)
 
It’s just so dull. The photography style popular today is so dreadfully boring to me, made worse by the fact that it’s coinciding with this content sharing strategy. It’s bad enough looking at it all once.

I think my subscription will be ending this year. I’ve long been clinging to the hope that magazines will have a resurgence, that by some miracle proper editors will be reinstated and that care and attention will be put into making them again. There are some exceptions of course, but Vogue just feels done now.

I’ve been on the train a lot recently and it’s there that I’ve taken the time to actually read the contents of recent issues. The written side of the magazine isn’t bad at all (I’ve quite enjoyed a few of the pieces), but I should be wanting to dive in as soon as it gets delivered - not waiting until I’m bored with nothing better to do. And even though I have enjoyed the articles, some just felt 2 years too late (e.g. Cold water plunging in the June issue. Really? Hasn’t this been covered everywhere by now?). Vogue should be leading conversations, not following them.
 
My subscription copy came through today. 176 pages. British Vogue tends to be a similar size from month-to-month, but this issue felt noticeably thinner in my hands, and indeed it’s close to 50 pages down from the July issue.

I’ve only flicked through so far, but the Jannson ed and the Chanel story already posted in US Vogue’s thread both make an appearance.

It’s funny, over the last couple of years I’ve found myself appreciating the repeated content far more in the odd US Vogue issues I’ve bought than in British Vogue’s pages. I’m not certain why.

Is it the more sophisticated typography that US Vogue uses inside the magazine that’s impacting things? Is the running order of images perhaps different? Maybe it’s the distant memory of a time when each edition had its own unique identity pointing out to me that these shots simply align more with US Vogue’s tradition of image making. They feel at home there because that’s where they really belong.
 
I've bought more issues of US Vogue in the past two years than I've done over the past two decades.

The only reason why I still subscribe to UK Vogue is due to that £12 deal at Christmas. I get my issue each month, I'm generally not taken with anything inside, I leave it unread for a fortnight, then I come back to it, to see whether my first impressions still hold, I read through the entire issue, then I recycle it, in time for the next one to arrive.

But if I'm not getting anything out of the experience, is Vogue becoming clutter in my life, more than anything else? I might not keep the issues, but it's still taking me time to read them.

I could put together flip-through folders of all the clippings I've saved through the years, and use those instead of magazines, but that feels like having two feet in the past, when the point of fashion is to look ahead.
 


BABY LOVE
Photography:
Colin Dodgson
Styling: Julia Sarr-Jamois
Hair: James Pecis
Make-Up: Yadim
Model: Suki Waterhouse


UK Vogue Digital Edition
 
AGAINST THE GRAIN
Photography:
Mel Bles
Styling: Stella Greenspan
Hair: Neil Moodie
Make-Up: Mathias van Hooff
Model: Gabbriette Bechtel


UK Vogue Digital Edition
 
HEY, LADY!
Photography:
Oliver Hadlee Pearch
Styling: Julia Sarr-Jamois
Hair: Franziska Presche
Make-up: Hiromi Ueda
Models: Lulu Tenney & Jean Campbell


UK Vogue Digital Edition
 
Spotted come copies sat on the shelves in Tesco earlier this morning. This month, the issue comes with a Vogue notebook (featuring cover designs from 1918, 1923 and 1927) but priced at £5.99.
 
Saw the issue in Kings Cross today and I too cannot believe it’s being sold for £5.99. The free notebook too? It’s a very bizarre turn of events. Very House & Garden.
 

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