Véronique Nichanian - Designer, Creative Director of Hermès Menswear

[Lola701]

Véronique should suggest to Dumas to hire her friend Bouchra Jarad in the womenswear.

BOUCHRA JARRAR

French menswear designers (I'm familiar with) that are currently avaiable: Hedi Slimane, Nicolas Andreas Taralis. Alexandre Vauthier should get womenswear (he's from Gaultier so...).

I know it’s just a fantasy but none of them would make sense for Hermes.

Hedi is probably the least qualified for the position simply for the fact that at Hermes, ego is out of the door. Hermes, even more than Chanel, requires to work at the service of the brand.

Even though Hedi is very corporate, he would probably be a pain for the Dumas.

They have a Creative Director there. His name is Pierre Alexis Dumas.

 

[Marc10]

They should sack the womens designer and take this opportunity to bring in a new era. Hermes feels so irrelevant in fashion. Veronique did some good things with the menswear, but the brand is not living up to its potential. They need someone to come in and be what Marc was at Vuitton, or Jonathan at Loewe. Someone who can revamp and reshape the company in all areas, and push it forward.

 

[Grets]

Part of me thinks it will be an internal hire. But I think this era in fashion with big moves, they could use a big name. In the 2000s they had Jean Paul Gaultier. He created the most coveted bags even to this day. I don't know if another Lemaire-quiet luxury type works especially since they have Nadege making bags that look like The Row's Margaux. There are still several unseated designers that offer a different perspective.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

I know it is very unlikely but I keep thinking about the Galliano smile and the "all will be revealed in due time".
Do you consider a possibility having him in charge of the Hermès Haute Couture?

37 years... Veronique must be very proud. She was loyal and Hermès was loyal. It is beautiful to see that "long relationships" can still exist in such a fast-paced world.

 

[jeremydante]

Kim Jones.

I don't think he's as qualified to take on this house.
Even baring in mind his stint with Vuitton men's before Virgil's appointment.

Hermès should see who they have internally before seeking out a bigger, more established or "popular" name. I don't really see Hermès as relying on bigger names - I think we were lucky to see an appointment of Margiela, and then JPG thereafter. And, JPG, from what I understand, applied as a competitor against Margiela but didn't get it, so campaigned heavily to get an appointment after Margiela parted ways. I said this during the Chanel conversations, but Chitoshe Abe (of Saçai) is someone I really love. And that could be an interesting appointment for her, to do Hermès menswear.

 

[jeremydante]

I know it is very unlikely but I keep thinking about the Galliano smile and the "all will be revealed in due time".
Do you consider a possibility having him in charge of the Hermès Haute Couture?

I don't think Hermès serves enough conceptual fantasy for John. He'd be very restrained in what he's able to do, which is not really his style, historically. Like, imagine Hermès with baroque elements? hahahah It's not him, as prestigious as the appointment would be. Someone who has shown restraint and/or minimalism in their previous work would be best, IMO.

 

[zoom]

Pilati..could work well on a number of levels. would love to see his take on Hermes or any house for that matter.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

I don't think Hermès serves enough conceptual fantasy for John. He'd be very restrained in what he's able to do, which is not really his style, historically. Like, imagine Hermès with baroque elements? hahahah It's not him, as prestigious as the appointment would be. Someone who has shown restraint and/or minimalism in their previous work would be best, IMO.

It crossed my mind because, although a conservative house, Hermès surprised twice with avantgarde appointments, Margiela and JPG.
And the results were incredible, defying scepticism.

But what you say is right.

I am really curious about Hermès next movements.

 

[Lola701]

They should sack the womens designer and take this opportunity to bring in a new era. Hermes feels so irrelevant in fashion. Veronique did some good things with the menswear, but the brand is not living up to its potential. They need someone to come in and be what Marc was at Vuitton, or Jonathan at Loewe. Someone who can revamp and reshape the company in all areas, and push it forward.

All of that you said would actually scare the people at Hermes. They don’t want a Marc at Vuitton or a Jonathan at Loewe.
They are happy not being part of the fashion conversation. They likes to be something else, to be above things.
Even Gaultier there was very respectful of some things.

Hermes needs to be classic, chic and timeless. Like MaxMara.

They don’t consider themselves as fashion house either even if they are part of the fashion industry.

 

[Lola701]

It crossed my mind because, although a conservative house, Hermès surprised twice with avantgarde appointments, Margiela and JPG.
And the results were incredible, defying scepticism.

But what you say is right.

I am really curious about Hermès next movements.

But Margiela and Gaultier understood the spirit of Hermes. Could John really adapt himself to Hermes. They would never choose him because he is too much of an ego but John struggles with doing clothes for clothes a bit.

 

[StylishCynic]

LUCAS OSSENDRIJVER, FRANCE NEEDS YOU!!!

 

[Lola701]

Call me crazy but why not Kris Van Assche?
Or even a return of Tomas Maier or Ramesh Nair to Hermes. They only did the womenswear there so it will be different for them…

 

[Page666]

in no particular order

Jerry Lorenzo
Lucas Ossendrijver
Christopher Booth
Norbert Stumfl
Daniel Kearns

 

[NoInvite]

Lucas Ossendrijver +1

 

[tricotineacetat]

Call me crazy but why not Kris Van Assche?
Or even a return of Tomas Maier or Ramesh Nair to Hermes. They only did the womenswear there so it will be different for them…

I would assume Lucas' style and personality would suit Hermès much more than Kris', whose Berluti probably qualifies as the opposite of what Hermès should look like, won‘t you agree?

I could see Tomas Maier, though.

 

[bc collector]

Having Lucas sit on the sidelines while much lesser talents frolic around in the pitch is one of the biggest crimes of today's fashion industry.

 

[Lola701]

I would assume Lucas' style and personality would suit Hermès much more than Kris', whose Berluti probably qualifies as the opposite of what Hermès should look like, won‘t you agree?

I could see Tomas Maier, though.

Lucas would be great too. He has a sense of luxury and ease around his work.
I didn’t liked his too short jackets at Lanvin (I hate short blazers on men) but it was insanely elegant.

Kris is great too, in a way in terms of modernity.

The great thing about Hermes is that it’s almost an exercise de style in « no-fashion » so, whoever takes over will have to adapt themselves to the world of the brand. It’s really a culture of it own.

Maybe Tomas would be too much of a throwback but his BV was great in menswear. Again, modernity.

 

[FashioNarrating]

Tomas Maier did some lovely work at Bottega and kept it classy overall, but he is close to 70 and German, so I don't think he's an option for Hermès. I'd love to see how Natacha Ramsay-Levi would do their womenswear - she's very French in a rather non-cliché way, was part of some of the most fashion-forward visions of the last two decades with Ghesquière at Balenciaga and Vuitton and her take on Chloé was quite stylish yet grounded. I can really see her giving the Hermès scarves, supple leathers and equestrian heritage some fashion edge. Wouldn't mind her having a go at the menswear either, but that's probably gonna go to someone in-house.. and a man, lol.

 

[Grets]

I think Hermes needs a designer that can get a bag to land. So much of the brand unfortunately revolves around the Birkin, Kelly, sometimes Constance, maybe Lindy, Bolide, Picotin older bags customers buy here and there but they have been around for some time. Hermes has not had a new style in the past decade that has really landed. It's been the reworking of their existing styles.