Proenza Schouler Designs
A New Financial Model
By VANESSA O'CONNELL
Wall Street Journal
When the fashion designers behind the Proenza Schouler label send their spring collection down the runway in New York today, an important new fan is expected in the front row: Stefano Sassi, chief executive of Italy's Valentino Fashion Group SpA.
The company, home to the Valentino label and the Hugo Boss men's fashion house, in July bought 45% of the five-year-old Proenza Schouler (pronounced pro-EN-za SKOOL-er) for $3.7 million.
The deal is the latest in a new model for promising young designers seeking to expand yet keep at least some degree of control of their names. They are wary of problems like those faced by Helmut Lang, Jil Sander and Joseph Abboud, who could no longer use their own names after parting ways with their new owners. At the same time, investors are more willing to be creative in deals with designers.
In May, New York designer Narciso Rodriguez sold a 50% stake in his name to apparel giant Liz Claiborne Inc. for $12 million. Liz Claiborne created a new company to develop the brand, with Mr. Rodriguez as creative director. Designer Peter Som, whose label is eight years old, is close to a deal with NRDC Equity Partners, the retail developer and owner of department-store chain Lord & Taylor. Mr. Som wouldn't sell his name outright. Instead, NRDC would take a 65% stake in a new company that would license the designer's name. Its investment is expected to be less than $10 million, according to people with knowledge of the deal. "People are accepting now that designers don't want to sell their name entirely," says Gail Zauder, managing partner at Elixir Advisors, an investment bank specializing in luxury brands.
Proenza Schouler designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, both 29 years old, say the Valentino investment will allow them to start selling handbags next year, while expanding their shoe collection, adding fragrances and opening some boutiques. "We jump on the power bandwagon now," Mr. Hernandez said in a recent interview at the designers' studio in Manhattan's Chinatown.
The two used their mothers' maiden names for their label so they would have the option of using their own names later. "We didn't know what was to happen," Mr. Hernandez said.
Valentino's Mr. Sassi, who met the duo at a Paris textile fair in February, says he respects their desire to keep control of their company. "We saw these two guys, so fresh, so enthusiastic, so open-minded," he says. "They weren't at all prima donnas."
The designers had some leverage. In June, they won the prestigious Council of Fashion Designers of America's Womenswear Designer of the Year award, in a tie with Oscar de la Renta. Actresses including Chloë Sevigny, Kate Bosworth and Kirsten Dunst have been photographed in their designs. Known for polished, chic apparel aimed at young, urban women, the designers' fall looks include a $3,750 double-breasted shearling-collar coat with puffed sleeves and a $1,150 blazer over a $1,425 shift dress in gun-metal wool. Their apparel is sold in around 50 stores in the U.S., including Nordstrom and Neiman Marcus, and another 30 internationally.
The duo met in the late 1990s as students at Parsons the New School for Design in New York. While in his junior year, Mr. Hernandez noticed Anna Wintour, the editor-in-chief of Vogue, sitting in the first-class section of his flight from Miami to New York. He approached her, but she was sleeping. He slipped a note under a glass on her tray, saying he loved fashion and hoped she would pass along his name for an internship at a New York design house. Some weeks later, the office of Michael Kors called, offering Mr. Hernandez a job. Ms. Wintour is now a big booster of the Proenza Schouler label.
As seniors, Messrs. McCollough and Hernandez joined to create a collection, using money from their parents. It won the school's competition, and Barneys New York bought the line. Markus Hofels, a German venture capitalist, put up enough money to fund production for the next year. From there, Mr. McCollough says, "it started snowballing." Growth was strong, but the business was still losing money.
The designers faced other hurdles.The Italian mills and factories that produced most of their clothes gave preference to larger brands such as Ralph Lauren and Chanel, resulting in delivery delays for Proenza Schouler. That meant their clothes faced a greater risk of being marked down because many consumers buy high-end clothes at the beginning of a season. Retailers in Japan and other countries wanted the merchandise even earlier, which presented huge logistical challenges.
A turning point for the label came a year ago when they signed on to do a guest collection for Target Corp. for an undisclosed fee, which industry observers estimate at $1 million or less. They created 65 low-priced pieces, plus some accessories, and promoted the line in TV and magazine ads.
The line, which included a $49.99 version of their famous bustier in silk, sold out quickly at many Target stores. Some items even resold later on eBay for much higher prices -- such as $255 for a $35 top.
With the money from Target, the designers bought out Mr. Hofels and began a search for a new investor who could give them an edge in strategy.
By working with Valentino's factories, and having a new Proenza production manager in Italy, the designers expect to produce their collections faster and get deliveries to stores sooner. Valentino's distribution channels will also help Proenza get into more stores in Europe and Asia, the designers say.
Their goal is to reach $25 million in annual wholesale sales in five years, up from about $6 million now, says Shirley Cook, the label's 27-year-old chief executive and partner, who will keep her job as part of the Valentino deal. A new line of sunglasses, priced at $250 to $500, will be shown on the runway today. They intend to open a smattering of boutiques around the world.
Valentino's Mr. Sassi says his company's recent ownership change -- private equity fund Permira Holding bought a 60% stake from the Marzotto family and other investors and is launching a bid for the rest -- doesn't affect his plans to help expand Proenza Schouler.
"Europe and Asia are huge opportunities for them," he says. But "the first priority for now is to support them, regardless of whether they break even or do better than that."