Vintage Scan Wish Lists

[BLtheKid]

Regarding my post directly above...I took a trip to the Los Angeles Public Library two days ago. If they are not the only place that has this issue, they are one of a very few (I haven't been able to find any others). Of course, theirs has the library stamp on it and also it was kind of ragged, so I am resigned to not being able to make an improvement on what's shown in my post above. I was able to find out the photographer at least: Antoine Verglas.

 

[ellastica]

This cover was posted on the Conde Nast homepage but was taken down apparently.

Can somebody post the lengthy interview of Ellen Von Unwerth from US VOGUE c 1994? I think JAG may have scanned this within the corresponding issue specific thread..

 

[Alstroe]

I'd like to ask if anyone has '90s scans of the Japanese magazines Street and FRUiTS.

 

[ellastica]

Does anyone recall seeing a Beauty page from US VOGUE c 1995 accompanied by a close-up face shot of Christy Turlington with over-sized still life shots of old school, needs sharpening eyeliners?

I posted this on my now defunct ellastica blog circa 2008 but the scan is long gone. Dick Page did the ink rimmed eyes and Juergen Teller shot the beauty shot. I think Suzanne Gleason wrote the short blurb. I remember the last parting word ending the article : . Simple.

 

[glamrockgal]

Is there scans of Marc Jacobs first collection of Marc by marc jacobs line where Christy Turlington was the model? I think it was harpers bazaar magazine. I hope theres someone out there who has the article and photos.

 

[BLtheKid]

To set the stage, I once had a physical collection of 40+ photos - mostly from fashion magazines - that I obtained from 1984-2003. Being a minimalist naturally, I ended up getting rid of them in 2003 or 2004.

In August, I came across the Vogue Archive and that led me to decide to establish a new online only collection. The base of the collection will be the photos that I used to have and I have also added new photos as well.

I have either found (or remember but haven't found) nearly all of my previous collection. To the extent there may be a few that I just don't remember at all, I rationalize they must not have been among my favorites and thus it's not vital that I find them (how could I anyway?). Of the ones that I've found, some I am not including in my new collection (as I've decided it will be limited to 27).

That leaves four in particular that I remember but haven't found. I am almost sure three come from Vogue Paris, In Fashion and The New York Times Magazine - all are worth considering for inclusion in my collection but I don't think my collection would be invalidated if I don't find them. I'm debating if I want to put the effort into finding these or not.

The other one that I remember but haven't found is the subject of this post. It's the only one among my most favorite that I don't have and I've been looking for it (not everyday of course) since August.

Vintage scan wish lists (post 335)

I remember this photo was originally collected later than most of my photos and/or came from a magazine I didn't normally get anything from. My problem is that really doesn't help me narrow down the years too much. If I only had to consider four or five years, it would be much easier to grind through those years and eventually find it. The more I look and don't find it I'm afraid that either I'm not looking early or late enough or that I've actually looked at the exact issue the photo is in but somehow missed it.

I'm sure it was a 5 to 7 page fashion editorial and that it had at least somewhat of a bohemian slant. The model probably wasn't, but looked like it could possibly be Rachel Williams. I'm also pretty sure that it wasn't in a big issue like March or September. Also, for some reason, I have a general idea of what the format of the Table of Contents looked like.

I've mostly been using the Table of Contents to guide my search. For instance, if there is an editorial about furs or denim or suits, I think I can safely presume my photo isn't going to be there. If it's an editorial with a tropical flavor, that's an example of something where my photo probably isn't going to be, but could be - so I'll look at it. But, it takes only one misjudgement for me to skip over something I should have looked at. Has that happened already?

Here are the most-likely magazines (all U.S.) that I think it could be in:

1. Harper's Bazaar: I've looked at this from maybe 1987-2004 twice, another time from 1990-1997 and just today from 1988-1990. The Table of Contents look is right for the late '80s - early '90s but I look and look and don't find my photo. I can look at a year's worth of issues in about half an hour. It might sound like fun to look at all of this but when you are looking for one photo and have so much to look through (and then are not sure if you missed it or not), it's not so much fun at all! I've been able to look at this locally at the University of Arizona library. Today I also did an online search of the Harper's Bazaar Archive from 1984-2003, using words like "bohemian, boho, gypsy and peasant" and my photo wasn't there. Also, Harper's Bazaar is much glossier than other magazines - that part doesn't feel right to me.

2. Elle: Flew to the Los Angeles Public Library in October and spent about 3.5 hours looking at issues from 1992-2001. No luck. Have gotten Table of Contents scanned and e-mailed to me through the Interlibrary Loan system but don't believe my photo is among those editorials (one small possibility I haven't yet followed-up on). Still waiting for 1989 Table of Contents (seems very early so not really expecting that to be the answer but hoping as this is still about the highest probability of things I haven't checked yet). 1988? Doubt it but may ask for it. 1987? Very doubtful - I think!

3. Mademoiselle: I knew they had this in LA and that was my back-up plan if I didn't find it in Elle. I think I looked at that for the same years 1992-2001. At one point, I took one of the issues up to the reference desk and said I think this might be it (I always imagine the librarians to be highly interested in my travails, such as I imagine the same to any readers here) - nope! After I got back home, I realized I needed to look further back so subsequently took a bus to the Phoenix Public Library and looked from 1988-1991 and also re-looked at 1992-2001. Nothing. It's probably not Mademoiselle - but can I rule it 100% out?

4. Vogue: Just don't think it's here - goes against the grain of me thinking it came from somewhere I didn't get a lot of photos from. Still looked at the U of A library from 1987-2004 though and also queried the Vogue Archives will no luck.

5. Glamour: Meets the criteria of coming from an unexpected place. Have gotten Table of Contents for 1991 and 1992 - totally has the wrong feel. Got January for '96, '97 and '98 - wrong feel. TOC requests for 1990 and Jan '93, '94 and '95 are open. I believe I might have bought this once or twice but this didn't even have good covers to possibly entice one to look inside. On my list because I've looked hard at the others above and haven't found anything.

6. Mirabella: Unlike Glamour, more a real fashion magazine. Magazine printed from 1989-2000. Did I ever buy it? Not sure. I know I at least looked at it. If I looked, it's possible I bought it. If I knew for sure it wasn't in magazines 1 through 5 above, I'd say it had a very good chance of being here. I may request TOC for these or eventually travel to a library to look at. The best thing this one has going for it is I wouldn't be repeating something I've already done.

7. Marie Claire: This didn't even exist in the U.S. until 1994. Low probability - if I ever bought this it would have been only the one time my photo was in there.

Others: I went through the entire listing of fashion magazines on the Fashion Institute of Technology's Library website and think it's got to be in one of the magazines above. Small chance it could have come from a foreign magazine but I am not thinking so.

I wish that I had never had that photo in my collection to begin with, because it is obviously bothering me not to find it. I'd maybe even just settle for seeing it once and knowing where/when it came from, just to satisfy my curiosity at this point.

There was even a point when I asked the moderators here if I could offer a reward for anyone finding this but was told that was not allowed.

 

[MulletProof]

^ one of the most fascinating posts/stories I've stumbled around here in recent years. I miss that feeling about fashion. I'm sorry you haven't found this. There's still so much fashion imagery that has not made it to the internet or that has made it and has been lost, and that NOBODY even knows what you're even talking about and it's so sad, that's all documented fashion, you can't really move forward (or get very far) if you do not know the past.

I have a lot of fashion magazines from way back when I used to buy them, all with stories that are nowhere to be found online (I have to travel to see my magazines so I have looked them up online lol). A few years ago I toyed with the idea of getting rid of them and started with my second most treasured one "just to test the waters", which the Met ended up buying, I was surprised and flattered for about a day and have lived in regret ever since. Why don't you go there by the way? (the Met) they must have a large collection..

Also, which library in LA did you go to? the Central one? my god. I don't even know how you would find that, where the archived newspapers are, underground?. And yes, librarians are always fun and love a good mystery, I walked in one day with something vague like "I was not allowed to take out this book last time, the author is French.. maybe, he opposed Keynes, don't even bother helping me, I'm so dumb".. that old lady was so enthusiastic and like "you're NOT dumb, we'll find this!" and we did find it.

Good luck! I love looking at pictures (and mysteries too lol) so if I see something somewhere, I'll come back to report!

 

[axiomatic]

Have gotten Table of Contents scanned and e-mailed to me through the Interlibrary Loan system but don't believe my photo is among those editorials (one small possibility I haven't yet followed-up on). Still waiting for 1989 Table of Contents (seems very early so not really expecting that to be the answer but hoping as this is still about the highest probability of things I haven't checked yet).

You can ILL something that specific? You did this for ≈ 144 issues? My library system charges $2 for each ILL...

 

[EricGallais]

Because particular issues are hard to come by and because I sit with thousands of magazines, not knowing which to scan, I was thinking we could share some vintage desires.

I would like to see more of the L'Officiel Paris from the 60s and early to mid 70s.

Does anyone have any requests for me as I sieve through my piles looking for miss right?

Hello!!!... That's very kind of you! Do you have some Dépêche-Mode from 1978 (looking for Nº8) and 79 (11) ? And also the ones from 1986 new edition (Nº1 & 2... I guess September & October)? Also I'm looking for an Italian magazine (1987) in which appears this pic from Mugler and I've absolutely no idea!... Merci

 

[BLtheKid]

^ one of the most fascinating posts/stories I've stumbled around here in recent years. I miss that feeling about fashion. I'm sorry you haven't found this. There's still so much fashion imagery that has not made it to the internet or that has made it and has been lost, and that NOBODY even knows what you're even talking about and it's so sad, that's all documented fashion, you can't really move forward (or get very far) if you do not know the past.

I appreciate your sentiment - I'm glad to know you found my story interesting. "I miss that feeling about fashion" - I've enjoyed kind of recapturing that feeling as I've recollected these photos from so long ago.

I have a lot of fashion magazines from way back when I used to buy them, all with stories that are nowhere to be found online (I have to travel to see my magazines so I have looked them up online lol). A few years ago I toyed with the idea of getting rid of them and started with my second most treasured one "just to test the waters", which the Met ended up buying, I was surprised and flattered for about a day and have lived in regret ever since. Why don't you go there by the way? (the Met) they must have a large collection..

If you have to travel to see your magazines, where are they?

Also, which library in LA did you go to? the Central one? my god. I don't even know how you would find that, where the archived newspapers are, underground?. And yes, librarians are always fun and love a good mystery, I walked in one day with something vague like "I was not allowed to take out this book last time, the author is French.. maybe, he opposed Keynes, don't even bother helping me, I'm so dumb".. that old lady was so enthusiastic and like "you're NOT dumb, we'll find this!" and we did find it.

I went to the Central Library - I placed a few calls in the weeks beforehand, warning them I was coming as I wanted to make sure I had access to what I needed and not have to waste time waiting for them to be brought out (most are in archives). When I got there, Elle from 1992 to 2001 was all there waiting for me on a cart and I was able to get right to it. First time I was ever in LA - flew in and out the same day.

Good luck! I love looking at pictures (and mysteries too lol) so if I see something somewhere, I'll come back to report!

 

[BLtheKid]

You can ILL something that specific? You did this for ≈ 144 issues? My library system charges $2 for each ILL...

My library doesn't charge anything for ILL - but some libraries in the system won't fill my orders if I don't pay (which isn't a problem as others will do it for free, it just may take a little longer). For instance, LA ILL won't do it for less than $5 per request plus 25 cents per page. And, they count each issue as a separate request so that would never work for what I'm doing.

I've done some of the earlier issues of Elle that LA didn't have, plus two other later issues that they were missing. FIT has filled most of these - just got 1989 (no May though) today and now am requesting 1988. Once that's filled, I'll have gotten maybe 61 TOCs from Elle. The TOC format from this time period doesn't look right though, so I'm not really believing it will be in 1988.

I also got some Glamour back today - overall I got 1990 through 1993 and just Jan and Feb from 1994 to 1998. I guess that's another 70. I'm holding off on any more Glamour for now as again, the format doesn't look familiar to me.

I got Apr 1990 Mirabella today - doesn't look right. I just put in a request for Apr for each year from 1991-1996 and also Marie Claire for May each year from 1995-1997.

The sad thing is I lived in New York for 25 years and also lived one block away from FIT from 2009-2011. If I lived there now, it would be so easy to go in there a few days a week until I found what I was looking for!

 

[MulletProof]

When I got there, Elle from 1992 to 2001 was all there waiting for me on a cart and I was able to get right to it. First time I was ever in LA - flew in and out the same day.

Amazing!

My magazines are at my family's house. Getting a much more dignified treatment than they deserve: raunchy danish magazines from like 2002 sitting next to my grandma's old Stefan Zweig and Pablo Neruda collections..

It's getting clearer to me that your chances of finding this in New York are higher than anywhere else...

 

[ellastica]

Has anyone seen scans of Mad Woman of Couture starring Stella Tennant shot by Meisel for VOGUE It supplement March 1996. Nicoletta Santoro styled

 

[BLtheKid]

It's getting clearer to me that your chances of finding this in New York are higher than anywhere else...

I went and looked at Harper's Bazaar yet AGAIN this past Saturday (1991-1995) - and then finally realized I'm tilting at windmills looking at magazines I've looked at before.

At this point, I've got to trust that it just isn't in anything that I've already looked at. I've looked at at least 700 magazines already (and that doesn't even count I've looked at some two or three times). I think I've taken enough care in looking through them, there's just no way I could ever be 100% certain that's the problem.

So, have to believe it's not in one of the four magazines I thought it was most likely to be in (Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, Mademoiselle and Elle). I'm still awaiting 1988 Table of Contents for Elle to be sure but I'm not expecting it be there.

Glamour - based on the Table of Contents I've seen so far, I'm thinking it's not here - plus this was a bit of a stretch to begin with. If I don't find it elsewhere, I will probably want to look through the hard copies of the magazines to be sure, though.

Marie Claire - haven't looked at this yet but have requested some Table of Contents just to get the ball rolling. This is a bit more of a fashion magazine than Glamour but still has a lot of lifestyle stuff that would make this a long-shot. Small chance.

Pretty sure the magazine was in English so if outside the U.S. it could only have come from the U.K. (I'm sure it wasn't from any of the other English-speaking countries). I doubt it, but small possibility.

That leaves Mirabella. If I ever bought it at all, this is probably the one time but I now think this is where it is. If I had to make a guess, I would say 1991 or 1992. I've looked at the small threads on tFS and Bellazon and not surprisingly didn't find anything. FIT in New York has this but so does Los Angeles, so will go there if I end up having to look in person. Meanwhile I've requested some TOC for this also as a starting point. If I get more confident after seeing what comes back, I'll have to start requesting full years - which would allow me to avoid having to make any trips.

If I find this (somewhat optimistic at this point), I'll probably go ahead and try to find the other three photos that I remember also (have a pretty good idea of where these others are).

 

[BLtheKid]

I grew somewhat frustrated with getting scans through the Interlibrary Loan process and went ahead and made plans to fly to LA again on February 26th to handle all of this myself:

1) Primary purpose for going is to find the photo I've been looking for since early September - and didn't find on my previous trip to the LA Public Library that I made just for that purpose. Taking a chance and betting that it's in Mirabella (estimating 80% chance). I probably could have gotten Table of Contents scans through ILL and found it that way (if it's there) but it will be more fun to find it in person. I'm going to start when the magazine originated in 1989 and go from there, even though I think it's probably from a few years later. If I don't find it by 1993, I'm going to start getting worried. Success or failure of the trip falls on finding this photo here.

2) If I can also find three other photos, I will have found every single photo that I can actually remember from my original collection (excepting four photos from fetish magazines that I discovered were absolutely impossible to find). Anyway, I had thought one of the photos was from InStyle (but that didn't feel quite right) - after reviewing a list of all fashion magazines on FIT's website, I came across In Fashion and instantly knew that is where this one photo came from. LA is one of a very few places that has this magazine and I will look through from 1987-1989 (I think the magazine published from 1985-1989 so if I don't find it in what LA has - I think odds are slightly in my favor - I will try to get Table of Contents from the New York Public Library for the first two years).

3) There is another photo that I am pretty sure came from Vogue Paris (nearly positive the year was 1985 or 1986). Small chance this could be in Vogue UK or Vogue Italia but don't think so. LA has all these.

4) Here is a non-LA item: You know that saying "from the ridiculous to the sublime"? I'm not even sure what that means but I'm currently searching for another photo that would probably fall under the ridiculous category. It's from The New York Times Magazine, no earlier than January 1985. I recently discovered that the University of Arizona library here in Tucson where I live has this on microfilm (but mixed in with The New York Times itself). This magazine is a Sunday supplement to the paper so I've got to look through fifty-two issues per year - there are small sections for Fashion and Beauty/Health. The problem is I've looked from January 1985 through February 1989 already and not found it (that took five hours each on two separate days). I would have put a strong bet on it being in what I looked at already - if not, I think it almost has to be in 1989 or 1990. If it isn't, I may have to consider re-looking through the earlier period. That will be a tough decision because it is so tedious.

5) Need to get a scan of two photos from Vogue Italia March 1984 and compare them with what I already have - FIT has this but instead of sending what I requested sent other scans that aren't even from the same issue. Decided to just handle this in person in LA.

6) If I have time, I want to look at Mademoiselle starting in 1987 and going backward, just to see if there are any photos I might want in my collection.

7) Will probably request the January 1993 issue of Elle US and possibly get a better scan of something that I already have.

I'll have about six hours (plus an hour for lunch) to do all of these things.

 

[BLtheKid]

Well, I'm giving up on finding the photo from The New York Times Magazine.

I looked at the microfilm on three more separate days for at least ten hours in total since my message above. All told, I ended up looking at 1985-1987 twice and 1988-1990 once.

I really think it's in there but it must be a weird situation where it wasn't from the Fashion or Health/Beauty sections. I'm now thinking it was just a one-off type of photo that went along with one of the other articles in the magazine.

When I first moved to New York in January 1985 upon graduating from college, I lived in a not great section of Brooklyn from then until moving to a better part of Brooklyn in October 1986. If I could remember for sure where I was living when I originally got this photo, I could narrow the timeframe just enough to where I could stand going through just a couple of years and look at the entire magazine (even on microfilm) but I just can't remember...

 

[ellastica]

@BLtheKid Can you perhaps takes some photos of this in-depth process? It'd be nice to have some image breaks with the walls of text you should start a blog or some online outlet to document your search


Does anyone have Shalom Harlow in that lacy gold Chanel dress channeling Coco Chanel posing with her arms crossed (?) against a white wall? It ran in Harper's Bazaar c 96 and believe was shot by Demarchelier?

 

[BLtheKid]

@BLtheKid Can you perhaps takes some photos of this in-depth process? It'd be nice to have some image breaks with the walls of text you should start a blog or some online outlet to document your search


Does anyone have Shalom Harlow in that lacy gold Chanel dress channeling Coco Chanel posing with her arms crossed (?) against a white wall? It ran in Harper's Bazaar c 96 and believe was shot by Demarchelier?

Sure, I'll try to take a few photos on Tuesday. Pushing all the chips to the center of the table with this bet on Mirabella...

I will be calling LA on Monday so that they have all of the issues of Mirabella, In Fashion, Vogue Paris, Vogue Italia, Mademoiselle and Elle waiting for me on a cart already when I get there.

I think I can get through all of those and maybe even eat lunch too if things go well...

 

[BLtheKid]

Well, it turned out that I came up very short on the pictures.

Here is a shot of the library as I approached:



And then, after taking the escalator up to the third floor, you can see the sign for the Art and Recreation Department (where they will bring all the archived fashion magazines out for you to look at



I was expecting everything I asked for to be on a cart like last time and I was going to take a picture of that from above but it wasn't nice and neat like that - instead I just ended up having bound stacks of issues just piled up all over the table and it didn't seem like it would make much of a picture. So, the next thing I knew, the camera was put away and I started going through all of the issues.

I got there about 10:20 and looked at issues straight through with no break until I left at 5:15 to head back to the airport.

I started with trying to find the two photos that were less-important to me (because I thought I had enough time to do everything). One was from In Fashion and I looked through the issues (using Table of Contents as a guide) that LA had (1987-89) and didn't find it - in the back of my mind I was kind of feeling it was 50/50 that the photo was from 1985-86 (I believe the New York Public Library is the only library in the country that has these issues).

Then I flipped kind of haphazardly and quickly through the 1985-86 issues of Vogue Paris (LA was missing at least one-quarter of the issues) - this was kind of a self-defeating exercise because while I'm sure of the time frame, there is some possibility that the photo came from either Vogue Italia or Vogue UK. Plus, I couldn't use the Table of Contents as a guide because I only know a little bit of French. Not to mention, I also began to wonder if the photo was part of a fashion editorial or perhaps it was an advertising spread instead. And it's hard to just flip through these issues of Vogue Paris - they're a little oversized and it's not easy to do quickly.

If these two photos were in the top-third of my collection, I'd grind through and find them at some point but since they're not, I'm just going to let these two go.

The primary purpose of my visit was to find the photo I've looked for in at least 700 issues of - in rough order, Harper's Bazaar, Elle, Mademoiselle and Vogue.

I decide to get to the main event and I start from the beginning going through all of the issues of Mirabella that LA has. The magazine printed from June 1989 until 2000 (the last issue LA had was May, not sure if that was the real last one or not). One problem is that LA was missing nine issues, leaving open the obvious possibility that I may have the right magazine but have my photo ending up in one of the missing issues.

As I'm going through, it's feeling to me as though Mirabella is where my photo was and is. I had that feeling all day long. For "fun", I make a guess that I'm going to find it in June 1991. Well, I get that far and it's not there yet. Then there is a span from August-December 1991 that is missing (high-risk since it's in a high-probability year but low-risk in that I don't think my photo is in the fall/winter cycle of months). But still, you never know.

The very next month - January 1992 - the Table of Contents changes to a different format, one that feels more familiar. But, the months keep rolling by. Eventually, I start asking for more Mirabella to be brought out - a year more here, two more years there. With some missing months in-between. April 1994. July 1994. February 1995. June through August in 1995 but there is a letter from the editor (Grace Mirabella) in September 1995 indicating the magazine had barely survived (so maybe Jun-Aug 1995 simply don't exist). For awhile, Mirabella combined two months into one. Missing Jan/Feb 1997. I end up getting all the way through to the end and don't find my photo.

But, I have to tell you, this is where I think it is. I finally got the Table of Contents for Aug-Dec 1991 back from the Denver Public Library today and can rule those out. I just put in a request today for Apr 1994, July 1994 and February 1995. Even though the odds are very much against, I wouldn't be shocked if it ended up being in one of these issues.

About the only success I had was getting better scans from two photos from Vogue Italia March 1984 and another from Elle January 1993 (plus I scanned a new photo from Mirabella for possible consideration into my collection).

I also looked through all of Mademoiselle 1986 and the months LA had for 1987 (remember a lot of the photos but didn't come across any to possibly add).

So, at this point, I will wait to get Table of Contents back. If not there, I may at some point even look at Mirabella again but extra-carefully. Lesser possibilities (Glamour, Marie Claire, Elle-again).

The Fashion Gods have shown that they are very angry with me for getting rid of my original and unique physical collection years ago and are testing me to my very limits!

 

[MulletProof]

^ Ah I see what you do! I always speed up onto the second escalator but you turn left in the middle. I'll take a detour next time. I wish I knew exactly what to look for and take snaps. Hours fly in that place and I assume even more so looking at old fashion magazines with a purpose.

When are you scheduling the next (and hopefully final) part of this magazine mystery? sorry I was a bit flaky in the previous episode lol. I enjoy meeting other tFSers for the most part (had a walk with my favorite one a few blocks from there a little over a month ago!), I just need alarms/alerts/reminders for everything I want to do apparently!

Also for lunch: 85 bakery about a block from that entrance you used! good and small enough to remain focused and not waste a lot of time.