Vogue France November 2021 : Aya Nakamura by Carlijn Jacobs

[caioherrero]

And as someone suggested before wouldn't be a good idea, the same way Anna and CN merge things we merge the threads? like Vogue Europe (Germany,Spain,Italy and France)

Yes, we should

 

[Deleted member 141523]

And some guy was saying on twitter that this debut beats Vogue Italia's first edition under Francesca. Too soon Both are the same.

 

[TomFordforGucci]

There's nothing "instathot" or "tacky" about Aya. She looks stunning here.

 

[dior_couture1245]

There's nothing "instathot" or "tacky" about Aya. She looks stunning here.

Lol. Puh-leeze. She is so instathot. Take a look at her Instagram. It’s her whole aesthetic.

 

[Deleted member 141523]

Cover it's great, main editorial is regular, and reprints in a huge edition as VP/VF aren't good at all.

 

[Armani]

Lol. Puh-leeze. She is so instathot. Take a look at her Instagram. It’s her whole aesthetic.

I can’t for the life of me wrap my head around this argument of Aya’s social media brand and it’s driving me crazy. What exactly is this supposed to allude to? One could easily say the same for Megan Thee Stallion or Nicki Minaj, for example, who tend to photograph well editorially… And you’re not the only member who’s pulled up photos of her Instagram in an attempt to discredit her ability to deliver in fashion. The reverse effect is typically to be expected from, let’s say, Kendall Jenner, so I truly am not seeing the point of this I think she looks great here, never-mind however she poses for IG.

 

[Lola701]

There’s a promise in the cover that isn’t really there in the end. I love that shot of her in jeans and her in that football tee but the promise was Couture!

Personally, what I expect from a fashion magazine is to give us a celebrity make-over. I’m not interested in seeing a continuation of your aesthetic. Maybe actresses get a pass for me, even more when they have a great personal style ( Tilda, Julianne, Deneuve, Huppert…etc.). When they don’t have that great personal style indeed the make over is welcomed (Vanessa Paradis, Marion Cotillard, Kristen Stewart)…

With singers, you want to see them in a different light. Aya played the game but it seems like the stylist wasn’t daring enough. It’s a great pop-culture moment for VP (maybe their greatest in a decade) but considering that Aya isn’t on promo mode, I find the result quite underwhelming.

There’s a chance that what this global thing will highlight is how finally the cultural individualities of each country matters.

The question around diversity is interesting. I think for the majority, we just wanted the story telling to be different. There are Asian, Black or Arabs rich parisians who wears jeans, tshirts and Chanel jackets, who goes to Monte Carlo and St Barths. As someone who has lived in Paris, I wanted to see the diversity of Paris (not in terms of race but in context). I’ve always found ridiculous to reduce the sets of a whole magazine to « Le Triangle d’Or », Monaco, St Jean du Cap Ferrat, South American beaches and the US.

So I find the ambition to represent France as a whole quite ambitious or ridiculous when they have failed to represent Paris.

 

[Horizontina]

The Normandie editorial with its infantilized women already spells trouble for the sexualized point of view that defined VP.

All fashion discussion aside, "Miss Normandie" is THE problem I have with this issue. It makes me uncomfortable. There is nothing quirky (if that is even what they are going for) in women dressed like Nickelodeon characters, or (I can't believe I'm saying this) Teletubbies. I cannot figure out who the target audience for this content is, but it sure is not Alt's crowd, neither the lovers nor the haters. Ideologically, the editorial raises questions, and that is a debate Trochu should want no part in, among other reasons because Vogue France should not be put in a position to start it in the first place. That is what a curator is for.

 

[Phuel]

I can’t for the life of me wrap my head around this argument of Aya’s social media brand and it’s driving me crazy. What exactly is this supposed to allude to? One could easily say the same for Megan Thee Stallion or Nicki Minaj, for example, who tend to photograph well editorially… And you’re not the only member who’s pulled up photos of her Instagram in an attempt to discredit her ability to deliver in fashion. The reverse effect is typically to be expected from, let’s say, Kendall Jenner, so I truly am not seeing the point of this I think she looks great here, never-mind however she poses for IG.

You seem to be insinuating an ulterior motive commentary in dior’s post that I don’t get the impression he’s alluding to; that which is based on racism. Clearly, she is not styled and shot to the fullest of high standards that I’ve come to expect for a french Vogue.

I find another form of racism on the part of these editors: Whenever a Black individual is cast for the cover of these fashion rags, there always seems to be a point made by the publication of their race/street culture over the concept of them being styled to the classic (and once upon a time high) standards of high fashion- as if Black can ever only be associated with street/ghetto/hip hop. There’s this unintentional segregation that Black individuals having to be presented as identifiable to their origins rather than be completely and effortlessly be transformable to the highest standard of fashion: Like when Cardi B was on the cover of ELLE September looking like an even more ghettodrag stripper than she usually does; Rihanna being celebrated and hyped by Edward for wearing a durag— cuz that’s such an accomplished and proud fashion statement for Black people LOL; and then this. Why not carry the concept of the classic HC vibe throughout the coverstory…??? She is a very pretty woman. The dumbing down of high fashion standards to a generic Instavibe, with an incohesive aesthetic that mirrors the brand of thoughtless narrative common on SM is insulting— to the reader and the subject: Let her play the part of a classic Casta Diva that’s shown for the cover and commit to it. These publications no longer challenge and inspire with daring creativity of these celebrities being transformed— to unrecognized glamour of another persona anymore. And apparently even more so with Black individuals. They’re consistently being ghettoized in their instantly recognizably, accessible, and commonly accepted persona— like dior mentioned, “fierce”/“qwueeen”/“regal" and all matters of cringe-inducing, over-compensating terms that only 13yo gayz would find exciting, rather than an elevated offering for adults.

 

[Armani]

You seem to be insinuating an ulterior motive commentary in dior’s post that I don’t get the impression he’s alluding to; that which is based on racism. Clearly, she is not styled and shot to the fullest of high standards that I’ve come to expect for a french Vogue.

I quite understand your argument, and was using your logic more so as the basis for my own comment than viewing dior’s OP as flat-out racist ideology. Is pulling up Instagram photos, middle finger up, heavy filters activated, IG model poses (and, once again, dior wasn’t the only member I saw do this to Aya in particular), not pigeonholing an artist merely to their social media image, driven by marketing executives who equally as much funnel artists who belong in marginalized groups into “baddie” prototypes on social media? I don’t see the image of a celebrity pushed on social media through individual teams and the image of a celebrity pushed in fashion through fashion creatives as needing to fuse together as one or else, and it was this I was looking to aim at here. Only difference here is I seem to be looking primarily through the perspective of the ever-changing social media realm given the context of the OP, and you through the undeniably slow-to-change fashion industry.

I find another form of racism on the part of these editors: Whenever a Black individual is cast for the cover of these fashion rags, there always seems to be a point made by the publication of their race/street culture over the concept of them being styled to the classic (and once upon a time high) standards of high fashion- as if Black can ever only be associated with street/ghetto/hip hop. There’s this unintentional segregation that Black individuals having to be presented as identifiable to their origins rather than be completely and effortlessly be transformable to the highest standard of fashion: Like when Cardi B was on the cover of ELLE September looking like an even more ghettodrag stripper than she usually does; Rihanna being celebrated and hyped by Edward for wearing a durag— cuz that’s such an accomplished and proud fashion statement for Black people LOL; and then this. Why not carry the concept of the classic HC vibe throughout the coverstory…??? She is a very pretty woman. The dumbing down of high fashion standards to a generic Instavibe, with an incohesive aesthetic that mirrors the brand of thoughtless narrative common on SM is insulting— to the reader and the subject: Let her play the part of a classic Casta Diva that’s shown for the cover and commit to it. These publications no longer challenge and inspire with daring creativity of these celebrities being transformed— to unrecognized glamour of another persona anymore. And apparently even more so with Black individuals. They’re consistently being ghettoized in their instantly recognizably, accessible, and commonly accepted persona— like dior mentioned, “fierce”/“qwueeen”/“regal" and all matters of cringe-inducing, over-compensating terms that only 13yo gayz would find exciting, rather than an elevated offering for adults.

With that being said, much of Black culture trickles into just about every aspect of society, now more than ever - the “yasssss mama slay the bootz down work it the house!” lingo of the drag community, the Y2K resurgence in fashion (Blumarine, hello yes I’m talking to you), all the way down to the surgical trends of lip fillers and Brazilian butt lifts… thereby making it unavoidable for the fashion world to feature yet tongue-in-cheek due to it’s own heavy Eurocentric standards. It’s difficult to formulate a concrete opinion here, but while it’s undeniably a step in the right direction to feature cover subjects of diverse ethnic backgrounds, something Alt did little of, is it to meet financial obligations, out of genuine commitment, or both? This is a question I’ve been struggling to answer with Edward’s British Vogue for a long time, and I’m afraid it might turn up with Vogue France as well - perhaps already is.

 

[Zorka]

AYA NAKAMURA
Photography: Carlijn Jacobs
Styling: Gabriella Karefa-Johnson
Hair: Yuji Virginie de Pinto Moreira
Make-up: Ammy Drammeh
Model/Celebrity: Aya Nakamura



Vogue France Digital Edition

 

[Zorka]

CHASSE AU TRÉSOR (Shared with UK Vogue December 2021)
Photography: Eddie Wrey
Styling: Poppy Kain
Hair: Shiori Takahashi
Make-up: Lynsey Alexander
Model: Tianna S.t Louis



Vogue France Digital Edition

 

[Zorka]

MISS NORMANDIE
Photography: Osma Harvilahti
Styling: Imruh Asha
Hair: Yuji Okada
Make-up: Satoko Watanabe
Model: Janina Maidorn & Lauren Ernwein



Vogue France Digital Edition

 

[Zorka]

LE TEMPS QUI COURT
Photography: Thomas Cristiani
Styling: Georgia Pendlebury
Hair: Laurence Walker
Make-up: Thierry Do Nacimento
Models: ?



Vogue France Digital Edition

 

[Zorka]

CONTENTS, EDITOR'S LETTER, CONTRIBUTORS & MASTHEAD



Vogue France Digital Edition

 

[Phuel]

I quite understand your argument, and was using your logic more so as the basis for my own comment than viewing dior’s OP as flat-out racist ideology. Is pulling up Instagram photos, middle finger up, heavy filters activated, IG model poses (and, once again, dior wasn’t the only member I saw do this to Aya in particular), not pigeonholing an artist merely to their social media image, driven by marketing executives who equally as much funnel artists who belong in marginalized groups into “baddie” prototypes on social media? I don’t see the image of a celebrity pushed on social media through individual teams and the image of a celebrity pushed in fashion through fashion creatives as needing to fuse together as one or else, and it was this I was looking to aim at here. Only difference here is I seem to be looking primarily through the perspective of the ever-changing social media realm given the context of the OP, and you through the undeniably slow-to-change fashion industry.


With that being said, much of Black culture trickles into just about every aspect of society, now more than ever - the “yasssss mama slay the bootz down work it the house!” lingo of the drag community, the Y2K resurgence in fashion (Blumarine, hello yes I’m talking to you), all the way down to the surgical trends of lip fillers and Brazilian butt lifts… thereby making it unavoidable for the fashion world to feature yet tongue-in-cheek due to it’s own heavy Eurocentric standards. It’s difficult to formulate a concrete opinion here, but while it’s undeniably a step in the right direction to feature cover subjects of diverse ethnic backgrounds, something Alt did little of, is it to meet financial obligations, out of genuine commitment, or both? This is a question I’ve been struggling to answer with Edward’s British Vogue for a long time, and I’m afraid it might turn up with Vogue France as well - perhaps already is.

Fair points.

Vogue emulating current Black-dominated street culture wholesale is just lazy, uninspired and so meek. There are many better ways to integrate “diversity and inclusivity”. But yes, I get it— this generation doesn’t want to make the slightest effort to be challenged, and they lose interest when concepts aren't instantly recognizable on their level.

You know, I was fascinated by the ball culture and voguers like Willy Ninja/Jose Gutierrez and the House of Xtravaganza/Paris Dupree etc growing up in the 90s. Willy in his Mugler jacket and New Era baseball cap with the oversized metal Vogue letters, vogueing with girls; Jose in Gaultier and Stephane Kelian boots— they were so street and also so plugged in to where high fashion was headed. Then watching that vogue competition show that Law Roach is in… None of these new vogue people possess the brand of heightened cool and unique style that the old school talents had: Not in their moves and not in their way of dressing-- just namedropping designer names but nothing about their vibe/attitude/air was remotely high fashion. And one can argue that this is how it is now. And that’s fine, but it still doesn’t mean they have style, grace and presence. And this is how this move of appeasing common SM sensibilities has dragged down what Vogue once meant.

(BTW, just swiped through the issue. I can’t see this improving for anyone that’s hoping it will somehow improve beyond what's offered here. It’s Edward’s Vogue 2.0. And Italia will be his Vogue 3.0. He clearly has an agenda, and it’s already manifested itself so clearly for this inaugural Vogue France. For those that only care about the mostly Black representation and nothing else, then this for them. The best story is the reprint M&M “The Heiress” with Kristen, renamed “L’heritiere” here.)

 

[mariemaud]

is the Mc menamy posted anywhere ? it's worth buying because of this story
finally Vogue France...it was so offensive for all french people who didn't lave in Paaris first of all and second, Paris sells nightmare now and I'm happy about it, parisianism is a mentally illness

 

[Frederic01]

This is terrible. Possibly the worst edition of Vogue Paris to have ever existed.The main editorial is so basic, it looks like something from a weekend newspaper magazine supplement. The other two editorials look like Lula Magazine circa 2007. None of the content here is interesting or worth paying money for.

Seriously, Vogue Paris used to have a distinct point of view, and that was something worth respecting, even if it was a bit cliche at times. At least the magazine had a recognisable signature and some integrity in resisting and pandering to public pressure. I see now the Twitter mob has completely taken over and Conde Nast has completely given in.

This "new" Vogue France, with its pseudo-wokeness, is completely redundant and offers absolutely nothing new. Everything in this is so diluted creatively speaking, it's almost sleep inducing. We don't need magazines like this. We need magazines with distinctive and individual perspectives, otherwise, what is the point? Why not just make one Vogue for the entire world and be done with it? "Vogue World".

 

[eneroenero]

It seems like a bad edition of Glamour... so cheap!

 

[gossiping]

this has no identity