Vogue Hommes F/W 2020.21 by Craig McDean & Alasdair McLellan

[MON]

How is Parker this booked??

I'd rather book Alessio Pozzi.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Alessio Pozzi is such a dream, the dutch guy could never. Moving on...

Glad to see others are just as confused as me regarding the editorials in this issue which are one random headscratcher after another. The styling verges on self parody in the main edit and I simply don't see how any of these fulfills the style needs of a male readership, gay, straight or otherwise.

At least the guys in McLellan's edit are hot, as usual, even if they're dresses like 5 year olds.

 

[Deleted member 1957]

great content and love the first cover though Mood for...sounds a little sleazy which is awkward since the model seems very young

 

[GivenchyAddict]

I find the styling on the cover story really disrespectful. Does for once Ib can dress people with some class and decency? I feel like he uses black models only to the purpose of dressing them like some clowns or something. This issue is really meh and I only enjoyed a bit the one with Parker thanks to Barbieri's styling.

But I am done with Parker like this obsession with him is boring especially when there are so much nice men models.

VHI has access to so many stylists and photographers but they choose the ones not fitted for the Parisian audience.

P. S : Can we talk about the black hat photoshopped on the girl head in the mcdean ed?

 

[Benn98]

I feel like he uses black models only to the purpose of dressing them like some clowns or something.

Right? I mean I get it, Kamara doesn't do servicey, ready-to-wear type styling. Fine. But must you constantly have this macabre and outlandish vision across all your work, mostly featuring black people? I've always said this, darker skin models, in general, are already relegated to the edgy and garish stories by default where they're made to look like clowns, thanks to stylists like him. But that's a conversation for another day.
When you look at the cover, what really makes it terrible when it comes to the styling is the seemingly generic pieces of clothing being made to look edgy. That shirt and jacket are surprisingly enough from Amani (not Emporio!)) but it could easily be from H&M or any other store in the high street due to the styling and the way it was photographed. And that's my problem with his styling sometimes. He's doing 'edgy' even when the clothing is anything but. There's nothing regal about that cover.

Easily McDean's worst work ever!

 

[kasper!]

Blah..

Last time I bought VHI there were some amazing pictures by Jeff Burton...WTF is this? #12 & #15 styling is a mess!

 

[Phuel]

Right? I mean I get it, Kamara doesn't do servicey, ready-to-wear type styling. Fine. But must you constantly have this macabre and outlandish vision across all your work, mostly featuring black people? I've always said this, darker skin models, in general, are already relegated to the edgy and garish stories by default where they're made to look like clowns, thanks to stylists like him. But that's a conversation for another day.
When you look at the cover, what really makes it terrible when it comes to the styling is the seemingly generic pieces of clothing being made to look edgy. That shirt and jacket are surprisingly enough from Amani (not Emporio!)) but it could easily be from H&M or any other store in the high street due to the styling and the way it was photographed. And that's my problem with his styling sometimes. He's doing 'edgy' even when the clothing is anything but. There's nothing regal about that cover.

Easily McDean's worst work ever!

I feel it's even worse.

Why is it that the all-Black cast is always— and it’s not just here, but in other rags as well, always styled in this flamboyant drag sensibility…? Is that what these rags think Black representation (God I loathe that sort of affirmative action…) is in fashion? Whatever happened to casting Black models in the likes of Tyson Becford/Vladimir McCrary/David Agbodji— and shot and styled in masculine sleekness??? I’m not ragging/dragging fem sensibilities nor that this brand of alternative looks are what’s being celebrated in these current times (just like Asian males are always these twink-types in these rags…), just that it’s become so stereotypical to the point of patronizing in how aesthetics for Black men are mostly always presented these days; it’s really no different than how the general public once would only accept gays if they were drag queens/effeminate caricatures. Their intentions are likely not to patronize, but these stories here are such extreme caricatures of Black men in fashion it’s veering on segregation/ghettoized when viewed next to how the White models are shot. Sheesh.

 

[Benn98]

Their intentions are likely not to patronize, but these stories here are such extreme caricatures of Black men in fashion it’s veering on segregation/ghettoized when viewed next to how the White models are shot. Sheesh.

The first thing I noticed as well. And it could be dismissed as nothing, but then you factor in this magazine's handling of black talent (or lack thereof) and it becomes 'problematic' to say it conservatively. I wish black people would speak up and let the world know this is not how they dress or wish to be perceived. Don't just be happy that you're getting a seat at the table even if the chair is wonky. Bang down your fist and lay down the law.

Imagine the buffoonery when the time comes for Vogue Hommes to deal with Asian, Latin etc beauty. LOL.

 

[LostInNJ]

The first thing I noticed as well. And it could be dismissed as nothing, but then you factor in this magazine's handling of black talent (or lack thereof) and it becomes 'problematic' to say it conservatively. I wish black people would speak up and let the world know this is not how they dress or wish to be perceived. Don't just be happy that you're getting a seat at the table even if the chair is wonky. Bang down your fist and lay down the law.

Imagine the buffoonery when the time comes for Vogue Hommes to deal with Asian, Latin etc beauty. LOL.

We as Black creatives in the industry are indeed speaking up and working our way into these publications to show different narratives, don't you worry. Not everything is an immediate visual result.

And not for nothing, but Ib being Black, and wanting to show his narrative as a Black man should not be discounted, even if you do not agree with what his narrative is. You cannot expect nor tell anyone of any race to make sure their interpretation of their race fits neatly into the box you have. That's also the beauty of being individuals. We are able to express ourselves as we see fit...different strokes for different folks. While it may not be the way I would depict myself, I don't see anything wrong with him approaching his interpretation the way he does.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ So because he’s Black it’s alright to segregate/ghettoize and further imprint this stereotype of gay Black man in a mainstream publication for men? Poor styling is poor styling— no matter the race narrative. And within the context of HF— it requires more thought and skills when a stylist attempts the edgy and alternative with a distinct cultural reference for a men’s rag then what’s happening here.

Whatever happened to elevating an alternative option to the high standards of high fashion? Talents like Gaultier/Rey Petrie/Riccardo, have always teetered so masterfully the lines between masculine and feminine, classic and archaic, and challenged notions and standards of male/female, and still progressed the ideals of fashion. Even when Demna and Lotta presented their very Eastern European/Georgian peasant post-Cold War sensibility to the industry, it was a very graphic and stylized version of a certain lifestyle that was freshly aspirational. And if one insists on specifically a Black perspective, there’s a reason why talents like Pat McCrath/Ozwald Boetang/Koto Bolofo/Melanie McDaniel/Edward Enninful (he is a solid stylist)/all the Black models pre-2010 have solidified their status and remain players in the fashion pantheon, while this generation of influx token representation fall behind them.These sots of styling doesn’t elevate anything at all. Nothing about this is aspirational to the Vogue Homme sensibility since it’s so lacking in being inclusive and is so specifically Black drag pageantry. Which is fine I suppose if you’re convinced and insistent it’s deliberately niche— but then that really defeats the entire message of we’re all in this together.

 

[LostInNJ]

^^^ Well, I think it's two different arguments here. 1: Is the story/styling right for this publication and 2. Is the styling "wrong" because it further pushes a stereotype.

This is the world Ib has created for himself, and the type of styling he does for different publications. I don't think it looks particularly like a Vogue Hommes story we are used to seeing, so I give you that point. But to say that he is furthering a stereotype is not something I agree with. Yes, it is one aspect of gay Black male culture, and perhaps yes, he could've gone in a more VH direction, but he didn't and in a way, they knew what they were getting when they commissioned him for the story. Again, the styling isn't my thing per se. For me, it's more a case of the stylist and publication not aligning more so than his styling being offensive. Perhaps the issue boils down to us needing more Black creatives with different stories to tell, so that only one point of view isn't overshared.

 

[aracic]

I can't with y'all hating on my boy Parker He's so cute, let him live!

As for the rest, it's forgettable - except for maybe that Jacob K editorial, I really like what they did with the colors and styling. But even that is kinda boring. I miss the times when this magazine used to be sexy - like when Marlon Teixeira grabbed Stephanie Seymour's boobs on the cover or half naked Jarrod Scott with his pants unzipped and pubes showing. That used to be much more fun than a manchild with a silly knitted cap rolling around in grass... we miss taste :/

 

[Deleted member 167090]

I miss the times when this magazine used to be sexy - like when Marlon Teixeira grabbed Stephanie Seymour's boobs on the cover or half naked Jarrod Scott with his pants unzipped and pubes showing. That used to be much more fun than a manchild with a silly knitted cap rolling around in grass... we miss taste :/

I strongly agree! How many men, straight, gay, or bi, would grab a copy of VHI in the airport nowadays? I would be embarrassed to hold one in my hand.