Vogue Hommes S/S 2019 : Parker van Noord by Alasdair McLellan

Marlon Teixeira is so hot. Love his editorial.
 
All the editorials are boring and could very much be in indie magazines: the male models are boring and not attractive visually speaking, the poses are lame and the fashion looks cheap.

I only liked ``Midnight in Tangier´´. This story is beautifully done: casting, fashion styling, photography.

I actually love Marlon´s editorial but I can´t help but to think that every single pose in his career and this editorial is the testament to that is very feminine. It´s funny the way he puts his legs, the way he flaunts his butt, the hand placement and all is always very women-like, but it´s interesting because he looks like the cliché macho Brazilian southern hot guy but always poses in a high fashion female model kind of way. He´s a great model but yeah it´s funny to me and I applaud him to have this signature style that is very recognizable among the other male models.
 
Way too infantilising for my taste, and I'm referring to the casting. Maybe they're actively courting the 16-22 fold, in which case I'll take back my comment because the content would obviously not be aimed at me. The men's market is completely different to women's in the sense that models should in most cases reflect the audience in terms of maturity and vibe. So I don't know for how much longer this magazine can continue to cast 16yo-looking models for their edits.

This felt more like an autumn issue than a spring one. It's a bit heavy on the darker looks and photography. I mean, all those jumpers and coats? Suppose it's a French edition so it makes sense. I will say that the styling throughout is very strong. And it's great that photographers are afforded a lot of pages just to fully expand on what they're trying to say. Really liked the subdued styling and mood of the Tangier story. But I also thought Marlon's poses to be very campy. Not sure whether it gels with the story. It adds a cheesy dimension to what would've looked like something more ethereal. And I've yet to see Paolo Roversi shoot his males with the same level of enthusiasm and creativity as he does females.

I've recently noticed that men's magazines seem to work extra hard for their advertising dollars. There's no mystery why Virgil Abloh is on the current cover of GQ Style, and August Man went the same route by putting Kim Jones on their March cover. Add to that, Jay Fielden conducting a half-page snippet-like interview with Pierpaolo in the current issue of Esquire (very rare for an EIC.) And now we basically have a Dior advertorial for the cover and accompanying editorial and interview (which of course comes with a Dior ad on the back cover) As for the rest of the ads, Gucci and Prada are the only ones who took out four-page ads, the rest all stuck to 2 only which is not bad. But when you consider that this magazine only publishes twice a year, then it's actually abysmal. And the advertisers are not of the hypebeast variety (it's mainly Berluti, Armani, Burberry, Zegna etc etc), which just furthers my confusion about their target demographic.
 
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Jungle

Photographer: Ethan James Green
Stylist: Anastasia Barbieri
Hair: Laurent Philippon
Makeup: Karim Rahman
Cast:

Marlon! I am glad t see him back in print. It is weird seeing a spring / summer issue with an editorial shot in the jungle but mostly on black and white.

Although it's not exactly the same, but this concept of "Marlon in the Jungle" has been done before twice as I recall, and probably more...

Risbel Magazine Issue #8


Source: Models.com

Victor Magazine Issue # 3


Source: Way Model Management Brazil
 
I think I prefer the Risbel magazine version! The colours are very intense.
 
The Marlon Teixeira editorial is glorious, but I've always loved him. Ethan is a super talented photographer. Why is there a Woman's editorial in this magazine?? There are thousands of Women's fashion mags it could have wasted space in.
 
Prince of Melancholy

Photographer: Paolo Roversi
Stylist: Anastasia Barbieri
Hair: Laurent Philippon
Makeup: Marie Duhart
Cast: Tamino



Vogue Hommes Digital Edition


I saw Tamino very recently in concert, he's super tall and even more handsome. He's very good live. He's classically trained, he has a great voice and plays the guitar really well.
 
Once upon a time, Vogue Homme— especially their spring/summer issues, literally blossomed with the lightness of being with glorious stories of the new, sun-drenched season. I could smell the crisp spring dew, and feel the (Helmut Lang) silks and (Prada) nylons through the pages. God, even the graphic design then were gloriously executed down to the kerning… These days… Cold and dull as sidewalk slush, pulled together by people— llikely interns/jr designers, with the skill-level of any given desktop publisher rushed through design courses in 6-months. The art direction has been truly obnoxious: My eyes hurt and I don’ t want to read anything.

Men are sidelined to appease the unisex kidz in general. And it’s this bland, department-store unisex that’s the equivalent of how toddlers dress: Thanks to JW Anderson. If it were gener-bending, tradition-defying androgyny of the brand that provokes rather than sedate I’d be all for it. While women’s mags are plagued with polite, catalogue portraitures, men’s mags are overrun with boys playing dressup in oversized basics.. VH was never quite as alpha, hyper-masculine as AH+ and L’UOMO in their golden days; more gentlemanly-assured, and it’s nice to still see men in this mag.

David’s story is solid enough, his 60s-thing always pulsates— I mean, he can’t really do much else, can he? Paolo’s Jeff Buckley tribute is nice enough. And if only the Frank feature actually had a proper shoot… But as usual, Marlon saves the day, even with the shoddy styling and silly poses. Nothing can “infantisize” this man...Pure unleashed masculinity ( and unapologetically cheesecake-ness) on display. The B&W direction of his story is likely a result of simmering down his smoulder so that his is more in line with the neutered, pubescent dreck of the current times (which look like miserable outtakes from the current era of the dire Another Man…Why Parisian flair would want to copy English-dowdiness is sort of beyond me).

Decent enough issue by today’s low standards… (With American Interview and L’UOMO dead to me, Another Man and Arena Homme Plus lacking any presence other than to indulge in Juergan’s tired whims, it’s more out of tradition/sense of nostalgia, that I still pick up VH… and for Marlon.. :sigh:smile:
 

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