Vogue Italia October Issue. Letter from the Editor
Di Emanuele Farneti
5 ottobre 2020
Newton and Us
First of all, thank you. Thank you for so warmly receiving our 100 covers in September, for embracing the message, and relaying far and wide the protagonists’ stories of diverse and inclusive beauty. We wanted it to be a celebration of life, and it was immensely satisfying to see it resonate in so many different ways and places.
This issue tells a very different, and in some ways opposing story. After all, it’s in Vogue Italia’s DNA never to go in the direction where you would expect to find it.
This month we celebrate an anniversary: 100 years since the birth of Helmut Newton, one of the greatest fashion photographers of all time, and undoubtedly the most controversial.
Our aim is not to pass posthumous judgements: if he was an absolute genius or just a product of his times; if he considered the women he portrayed in his career, and who made him famous, as objects of admiration, awe, manipulation or fetishism. Instead, we want to take the opportunity to reflect on certain questions that his work continues to raise, and that are now more relevant than ever. At what point does a tribute to female beauty become objectification? When women are described from an overtly male perspective, do they necessarily become passive, or can they exert control over the men who observe them? Is the nude still acceptable in photography, and on what conditions? And what about sex in art and fashion?
We have not only gathered photographers (asking them not to pay a tribute to the great master, or worse to imitate him, but rather – under the creative direction of Vogue Italia – to recount the places, faces and obsessions of his life in order to illustrate the complexity of his character). We have also called on critics, muses, writers, film directors, curators, publishers, gallerists, friends and not friends. This issue would not have been possible without the generous assistance of Tiggy Maconochie from the Helmut Newton Estate, along with the Helmut Newton Foundation in Berlin, whose director Matthias Harder deserves our sincerest thanks. It has been a journey we will not forget.
The resulting pages feature considerations that honestly reach far beyond the trivial. It’s a long story that starts with Newton’s life and unfolds to talk about #MeToo, body positivity, diversity, conformism, morality, moralism, liberty, irony, good and bad taste – and who is entitled to decree which is which.
Lastly, there’s a crucial presence/absence in this issue: June, whose eye (as Carla Sozzani explains) always enhanced and even completed the vision of her husband Helmut. To their love we dedicate our cover with Hailey and Justin Bieber. Not the most obvious choice of protagonists – we like to think he would have approved.