Why Do Some Fashion Brands Last While Others Fade?

surroundings are important. like plants will not work well if it's too hot, too cold, too wet, too dry, too sunny, too cloudy. each has its own fave conditions.
but assuming that the requirements are met, and even if they are satisfied, it's the seeds that define their future.
giant trees that live long. tender grass that is transient. seeds know what will become of themselves.
I guess, rather than the limit of talent/ability etc, the content of the brand or its aesthetics or its original vision determines its size. to some extent.

gaultier, lang, jean colonna, mcqueen, chalayan, V&R (and more). they all had a certain thing in common.
their business partner was onward (aka onward kashiyama, bus stop, via bus stop, gibo, etc).
among fashion enthusiasts, onward doesn't have a good reputation. for designers were almost forced to produce things at gibo, launch diffusion lines and, if the brand is only for women at that point, menswear line as well. and listen sometimes to onward's opinion on the ideal direction and as a result tend to be more wearable/commercial.

to some of chalayan fans it seemed he was used/consumed by onward and that he was treated as expendable. it may be true in a way.
but it's also onward that let him rise from financial difficulties anyway and relocate the show venue from london to paris and build his gorgeous freestanding flagship in a prime location of tokyo. perhaps some things were not right strategically. but in fact a great opportunity was made and was not fully utilized. it was not his lack of effort nor talent. the collections were not bad.
I think it's just that it's impossible for little beautiful bizarre plants to grow like agave, no matter how hard you try.

as for jean colonna, it didn't develop as greatly as they both expected. business and creation wise.

gaultier has a strong sense of obligation. he is still thankful to onward. because onward was the only one who found him while everyone else paid no attention to him. the partnership could be said to be fortunate.

the golden age of helmut lang could be from the mid 90's to the start of the prada era. exactly when he worked with onward. the partnership was a success.
but he was sort of bored with the situation and started to say he wants to make the label something like hermes. that's not what onward is good at. in this case it was onward that might have felt like being treated as expendable.

macqueen gracefully used onward as a springboard and set out on his ideal hell tour.

typical onward era macqueen
photo_mid_def_978051.jpg
photo_mid_def_978042.jpg
firstview
 
Almost all of the people here were and still are regarded as talented designers. How many of them still have their label? How many are even designing anymore? It's really tough out there.

View attachment 1330552
Ha. The question I'd ask isn't how many, but of those who're still going how far has each of them come? it's crazy the discrepancy in this 1 random yearbook picture, they sit together here but they're in such different spaces now.
Karl obviously set the tone for the modern *career*.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

New Posts

Forum Statistics

Threads
213,589
Messages
15,228,734
Members
87,399
Latest member
Chantal115
Back
Top