Yohji Yamamoto S/S 05 Paris

[faust]

Originally posted by runner@Oct 5 2004, 10:57 AM
FWD

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In essence, what softie and I said. B) .

 

[clay]

Originally posted by mikeijames@Oct 5 2004, 08:24 AM
if i had to predict a trend based on this collection, i would say that minimalism is sneaking its way back onto the radar. but instead of that sharp, uniform of the nineties, we have this modern, luxurious, almost decadadent overabundance of fabric and detail.

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Mike i think your right. The wind is blowing in that direction for sure. I was just talking to a friend that mentioned the same thing saturday while we were out shopping, well looking anyway.

 

[AlexN]

Originally posted by Lena@Oct 5 2004, 09:32 AM
seems like i'm hardly like anything for ss05

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Me either.

Softgrey, Gucci icecube trays, you say?

 

[softgrey]

ridiculous ...no???...

 

[TheSoCalledPrep]

I like it.. but those wrap tops are just screaming Rick Owens.

 

[metal-on-metal]

Originally posted by faust@Oct 5 2004, 10:16 AM
That's one way of looking at it. Another way of looking at it would be that these designs are avant-garde (at the forefront), pushing the stale boundaries of fashion. Think about it, if we didn't have the likes of Rei and Yohji who revolutionized the human form, and later the belgians who brought the social reflection and romantic sensibility to fashion - it'd be the same stale prim-and-prpoer sh*t from Paris and tacky and vulgurly sexy garbage from Milan - the same way if it wasn't for the likes of Van Gogh (and even Malevich with his simple Black Square) - we'd still be looking at the inane (albeit skillful) portraits of the Popes, the Generals and Jesus Christ in arts .

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I agree. And thank you for bringing up Malevich. Rei and Yohji and Junya and the rest are the Malevichs, Duchamps, and Picassos of contemporary fashion.

 

[HBoogie]

I want that red dress. I haven't really felt moved by anything red in the longest time, but the dress here is wonderful.

 

[faust]

Originally posted by TheSoCalledPrep@Oct 5 2004, 08:37 PM
I like it.. but those wrap tops are just screaming Rick Owens.

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Huh? Where?

 

[Spacemiu]

Originally posted by TheSoCalledPrep@Oct 5 2004, 06:37 PM
I like it.. but those wrap tops are just screaming Rick Owens.

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rick owens is more influenced by yhoji than the other way around.

 

[helena]

incidentally though this would interest some of you, I was in a shop at the weekend whih stocks yohji and the guy was saying that his buyer had been at the show in Paris last week. Apart from the fact that they seemed not to like the collection (which i do not undersatnd beause it is lovely) they have decided to drop it (and take Junya W) next spring because the whole collection is so expensive. The dresses are going to be retailing at £12,000 he said (£8-9k wholesale). He doesn't think any of his customers will buy at that price. Is that not just mental!! The Yohji people explained it on the basis that the time spend by skilled craftspeople to undertake the detailed needlework was such that i commands that level of price tag. That may well be true but if people don't buy it at that price its a wasted excerise....

 

[faust]

Originally posted by helena@Oct 11 2004, 10:22 AM
incidentally though this would interest some of you, I was in a shop at the weekend whih stocks yohji and the guy was saying that his buyer had been at the show in Paris last week. Apart from the fact that they seemed not to like the collection (which i do not undersatnd beause it is lovely) they have decided to drop it (and take Junya W) next spring because the whole collection is so expensive. The dresses are going to be retailing at £12,000 he said (£8-9k wholesale). He doesn't think any of his customers will buy at that price. Is that not just mental!! The Yohji people explained it on the basis that the time spend by skilled craftspeople to undertake the detailed needlework was such that i commands that level of price tag. That may well be true but if people don't buy it at that price its a wasted excerise....

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I'm not surprised. I already complained about his prices a while ago on tFS. They just don't seem to translate into how the clothes look.

 

[helena]

Originally posted by faust@Oct 11 2004, 11:27 AM
I'm not surprised. I already complained about his prices a while ago on tFS. They just don't seem to translate into how the clothes look.

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its all very honourable using old traditions & dying skills but at that kind of price these skills will only live as long as yohji's company (and the few others) bankrolls them. its just not viable in the face of mass market fashion. pity though it is.

 

[faust]

Originally posted by helena@Oct 11 2004, 10:32 AM
its all very honourable using old traditions & dying skills but at that kind of price these skills will only live as long as yohji's company (and the few others) bankrolls them. its just not viable in the face of mass market fashion. pity though it is.

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it's weird how he officially gave up Haute Couture and just translated the prices and methods into his RTW.

 

[helena]

i do respect his commitment if not his prices!

 

[faust]

Originally posted by helena@Oct 11 2004, 10:40 AM
i do respect his commitment if not his prices!

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oh, absolutely - noone is taking away his merit as a designer. I call him Reverent Yohji

 

[helena]

revered indeed by many!

 

[softgrey]

Originally posted by helena@Oct 11 2004, 10:22 AM
incidentally though this would interest some of you, I was in a shop at the weekend whih stocks yohji and the guy was saying that his buyer had been at the show in Paris last week. Apart from the fact that they seemed not to like the collection (which i do not undersatnd beause it is lovely) they have decided to drop it (and take Junya W) next spring because the whole collection is so expensive. The dresses are going to be retailing at £12,000 he said (£8-9k wholesale). He doesn't think any of his customers will buy at that price. Is that not just mental!! The Yohji people explained it on the basis that the time spend by skilled craftspeople to undertake the detailed needlework was such that i commands that level of price tag. That may well be true but if people don't buy it at that price its a wasted excerise....

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i find this VERY interesting helena...thanks so much for sharing...
the hefty price tag is indeed what keeps me from owning more yohji...
also...i can't usually carry so much fabric...being as petite as i am...

(*ahem...okay...short )

 

[cerfas]

Softgrey! I loved the pieces you posted. I wanted to bring back this thread because it doesn't show much of the collection and I thought it was noteworthy. There is something that relates to Kokosalaki in my mind, visually...the twisting and rippled fabric and everything.

A dress I liked , from http://www.luisaviaroma.com ...the zipper is fantastically ugly but somehow still appealing... and a blouse

 

[Arturo21]

These dresses are just ..gorgeous..and the shirt. I love Yohji. Funny, not long ago I didn't care at all for Yohji, and sometimes found it even horrendous. Now I just love him.

 

[cerfas]

Some of his designs strike me in entirely the wrong way . I dont care for them at all. It's weird to feel about something in terms of polar opposites, but my instinct is that's far better than to feel neutral.

Painting teacher once made us write an essay about our least favorite piece of art, one we hated, because he thought that was just as important as the one we loved.