1867-1946 Jeanne Lanvin

[DosViolines]

1915 Lanvin Silk Brocade Evening coat with Ottoman Influences

Label: Jeanne Lanvin / Paris / Octobre 1915
Origin: French
Materials: silk brocade shot with bronze thread, silk lining, gold metallic lace, silk rosettes, gold lame

Description: A very important, RARE, high-style, museum-quality garment that shows the Orientalist influence of Poiret.

This piece is exceptional and belongs in a museum or a private collection of serious worth.

In 1910, Poiret started really getting excited with Orientalism. His silhouettes, his fabrics and materials, the way he chose to drape the body rather than confine it were revolutionary. Jeanne Lanvin was a fellow couturier who was at the height of her powers. This coat from her autumn 1915 collection is not only relevant to her work (she also was instrumental in creating the new silhouettes; one of her most famous styles was her signature 1920s robe de style, gowns that belled at the hip and had panniers), but shows the influence of Paul Poiret as well.

It is an amazing textile, from construction, to silhouette, to fabric, to variety and mating of materials. The style is Orientalist, western Asian, echoes of the court of the Ottoman Empire. Rich silk brocade is woven a disposition to exhuberant effect, displaying a rich garden of flowers and foliate patterns in golds and bronzes, emeralds, Persian blues -- all against the backdrop of a deep, rich purple subtly shot with bronze lame threads. The fabric alone is an important, museum-quality textile. Integrated into this revolutionary, show-stopping garment, it is a rare, valuable treasure.

vintagegriffin

 

[seanutbutter]

Thank you for all your posts; I can see where many modern designers get their inspiration from.

 

[MUXU]

wow!!
her works are gorgeous!! the most breath taking pieces had to be the purple satin dress and the cape from the 30s. i love the shape and cut of the dress. the cape was so ahead of it's time and the texture is fantastic!

 

[DosViolines]

Jeanne Lanvin, c 1920

digimuse.cis.drexel.edu

 

[DosViolines]

Jeanne Lanvin, c 1922

digimuse.cis.drexel.edu

 

[oomarhatelier]

i'm spechlees, jeanne was a genius, i love her history so much and of course i love lanvin nowdays!

 

[DosViolines]

Jeanne Lanvin Printed Day Dress, 1940s

whitakerauction

 

[DosViolines]

Jeanne Lanvin Printed Edwardian Jacket

whitakerauction

 

[DosViolines]

1930’s Lanvin black velvet, bias cut gown with pyramid shaped sequins

c20vintagefashion

 

[DosViolines]

A FINE JEANNE LANVIN VELVET EVENING COAT, FRENCH, CIRCA 1938

labelled, superbly cut with flaring skirt, the sleeves formed from domed radiating panels of fabric, large angular dyed fox collar emphasising the narrow waist, lined in satin, single large brass button to fasten

sothebys

 

[DosViolines]

A JEANNE LANVIN RED WOOL AND GOLD LEATHER DINNER GOWN, FRENCH, SUMMER 1938

labelled, bias cut, calf length, with gold strapwork infilled with silver sequins to neck and cuffs, padded shoulders, simple rope belt

sothebys

 

[DosViolines]

A JEANNE LANVIN BLACK SATIN EVENING GOWN, FRENCH, CIRCA 1936-8

labelled, of bias cut polished black satin, zip fastened to left side, the bodice with extra-ordinary ribbed fan-shaped panels, the back with broad cross-over straps

sothebys

 

[DosViolines]

A GOOD JEANNE LANVIN STRIPED SATIN EVENING GOWN, FRENCH, 1939

labelled and numbered 2621, and named on the reverse `Lola’, formed from a complex construction of horizontal and vertical stripes, with widening horizontal bands forming the gored skirt, floating vertical overlays to the bodice joining to form a raised neckline

sothebys

 

[DosViolines]

A JEANNE LANVIN BLACK AND WHITE PRINTED SILK GOWN, FRENCH, SUMMER 1937

labelled, the graduated diamond print enlarging with the flare of the skirt, unusual curved shoulders and sleeves

sothebys

 

[DosViolines]

A DRAMATIC JEANNE LANVIN EVENING GOWN, WINTER, 1936

labelled, of bias cut black crepe with zig-zag seams to waist, the plain body of the dress contrasting with the striking cream felt strapwork appliqué on the sleeves which have angular seams forming the cuff, the back with keyhole opening from neck to centre back

sothebys

 

[DosViolines]

GEORGE HOYNINGEN-HUENE (1900 - 1968)
`LEE MILLER IN LANVIN PRÉLUDE'

Provenance:
Condé Nast Archive

Literature:
Vogue, 1 May 1931, p. 46 (this print)

sothebys

 

[DosViolines]

ARMAND-ALBERT RATEAU
FIREBACK FROM THE RESIDENCE OF JEANNE LANVIN, VESINET, FRANCE

ca. 1921
inscribed No. 11 Mme. Melet Les Vieilles Tuiles Bd des Belgiques Le Vesinet
cast iron

LITERATURE AND REFERENCES

Alastair Duncan, A A Rateau, exh. cat., Delorenzo Gallery, New York, 1990, p. 15 (for the model in the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris)
Évelyne Possémé, Le Mobilier Français: 1910-1930, Les Années 25, Paris, 1999, p. 91 (for the model in the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris)

sothebys

 

[DosViolines]

Lanvin evening jacket, 1935

Harper's Bazaar, february 2004
​

Scanned by me

 

[DosViolines]

Jeanne Lanvin Lace Evening Gown, 1930s

whitakerauction

 

[DosViolines]

Attributed to Jeanne Lanvin (France, 1867 - 1946)
Woman's 'Robe de Style', circa 1922
Costume/clothing principle attire/entire body, Silk taffeta and beaded metallic lace with beaded flower trim, Center back length: 44 in. (111.76 cm)

lacma.org