1958-1960 Christian Dior by Yves Saint Laurent

[Hanne]

text and image from http://www.designerhistory.com/historyofashion/dior.html

Yves Saint Laurent for the House of DIOR

Yves St. Laurent came to the notice of Christian Dior through his friend Michel de Brunhoff. De Brunhoff was the chief judge of a competition set by the International Woold Secretariat in 1953, which was won by Yves St. Laurent, who submitted a design of an asymmetrically draped one-sleeved cocktail dress.

When de Brunhoff went through this young man's portfolio of designs, he was very impressed, particularly since some of the designs looked very much like the new A-line collection which his friend Christian Dior was preparing for presention.

De Brunhoff told Dior that he must take this young man into his salon, and although Dior was not initially keen to do so, when he saw his designs, he agreed. Dior only had one assistant throughout his life, and this was Yves St. Laurent.

While he was at Dior, he designed many dresses which appeared in the 6-monthly collections, particuarly 'bubble dresses" which were drawn in at the hemline on a band.

Dior felt that he was not being recognized enough for his work and did have plans to give him more recognition, but he died before these plans could be put into place.

Yves St. Laurent's first collection for Dior was called the "Trapeze" line and it was a great success. The newspaper headlines read:

"St. LAURENT HAS SAVED FRANCE, THE GREAT DIOR TRADITION WILL CONTINUE"

The young designer appeared on the balcony to greet the crowd The Trapeze Line

This design was a triangular shape, it flared gently from narrow shoulders to a shorter, wider hemline just covering the knees. By autumn all of Paris was wearing this shape dress.

Yves St. Laurent presented 6 collections for Dior. His 1959 collection was not very well received because he raised the hemline to the knees, belted every waist tightly and pulled the skirt into a tight kneeband. YSL was not very concerned about the criticism as he said "indignation is a good sign, it means fashion is alive and well."


1960 The Spring/Summer collection was also very shocking, it was Beatnik, motor-cycle jackets made of alligator skin, mink coats with ribbed sweater sleeves and turtlenecks under finely cut suits. The staff at Dior felt YSL had misjudged the Dior clientele.

In 1960, Yves St. Laurent was called for military service, and on his return he found that Marc Bohan had been given charge of the House of Dior. St. Laurent was very angry about this, and sued legally against Dior since he had a contract for the position with Dior. He was granted compensation of 48,000 pounds and used this to set up his own salon.​

 

[Whitelinen]

"L'Eléphant Blanc", Dress, Evening, spring/summer 1958
Christian Dior Haute Couture (French, founded 1947), Couture House; Yves Saint Laurent (French, born Algeria, 1936), Designer
French
Gift of Col. and Mrs. Edgar W. Garbisch, 1977 (1977.329.5)

metmuseum.org

 

[stilettogirl84]

that one's a bit wierd looking

 

[Salvatore]

Oh that one I bet is extremely elegant and I can only imagine it if worn! So beautiful and soft, but not candy sweet!

 

[taz]

I found that the latest Dior collection pays a tribute to Yves days at Dior, there was the A- line 'Trapeze' & the Y- line.

 

[ilaughead]

I would love to see more pictures of the original Trapeze shape. Also what is the Y-line? I've heard of it, but I can't visualize what it'd look like.

 

[Miss Galliano]

beautifull dress but it is too small to see the details

 

[gius]

1957 - 1961 Christian Dior by Yves Saint Laurent

Yves Saint Laurent takes over Dior 1960, after Christian Dior's death 1957

@ Vogue Paris October 2007
L'âge Dior

scanned by Diorette

 

[taz]

thanks guis.. love those rare pics.. so chic

 

[MagFan]

Model Posing in Dior by YSL Satin Evening Gown. sept 1959


Model Posing in Dior by YSL a Red Mink Lined Outfit. 1960

corbis

 

[taz]

a new book about that era, you can find it in Amazon:

Paris, 1962: Yves Saint Laurent and Dior, The Early Collections.

YSL Returns To Its Roots

Photography tome helps usher in new salon
Wednesday, December 05, 2007

(NEW YORK) Yves Saint Laurent's revamped Madison Avenue boutique celebrates its reopening next Wednesday, and what more appropriate way to show off a new look than with an homage to the iconic brand's heritage? To herald the occasion, guests have been invited to a private cocktail party that night to toast the limited-edition release of [SIZE=+0]Paris, 1962: Yves Saint Laurent and Dior; The Early Collections, [/SIZE]a compilation of photographer Jerry Schatzberg's images captured at Monsieur Saint Laurent's first solo show in Paris. On assignment for Esquire in 1962 to shoot "street style" at the Paris collections, Schatzberg's images, which also feature photo shoots with Helmut Newton and the around-the-clock action during couture, were never published--until now. The intimate, salon-like setting--2,800-square-feet of retail space offering the full line of women's ready-to-wear and accessories--should give attendees an up-close-and-personal preview of the pricey coffee table book before its December debut, which is limited to 500 copies at $800 each. At least it comes encased in a navy crocodile embossed leather box with a print from the book.

fashionweekdaily

 

[SomethingElse]

Spring-summer 1958. Silk net embroidered with metallic threads, rhinestones, sequins, beads.

imamuseum.org

 

[SomethingElse]

1959. Silk Taffeta.

imamuseum.org

 

[DosViolines]

Dior (House of) , Yves Saint Laurent (Algeria, 1936 - 2003)
Woman's Cloche, 1960
Plaited straw, silk chiffon

lacma.org

 

[taz]

great pictures .. thanks somthingelse & dosviolines .. he is such a master & he was 22 at that time.

 

[Miss Galliano]

i miss him !

 

[DosViolines]

Christian Dior Smoke Silk Faille Ballgown
Attributed to Yves Saint Laurent, French, Autumn-Winter 1956
The bodice with low V-neckline draped either side of bustline into self bow knot, three-quarter length kimono sleeve, trapeze skirt with stiffened deliberate one sided central dart, full fitted foundation attached only at front bow knot, four layers of petticoat each with double band of horsehair reinforcement, the outer of organza, the rest tulle, with voluminous stole of full width faille fringed at ends, labeled: Christian Dior/Paris/Automne-Hiver 1956/82373/ and tape label: 82373/S.c.c. Bergdorf Goodman/Robe Musique-de-Nuit-/Bertha. and Made in France.
This dress was photographed for Harper's Bazaar, October 17, 1956 on the model Suzy Parker by Richard Avedon.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Yves Saint Laurent for Dior Leopard Trimmed Suit
French, late 1950s
The sleeveless dress with black silk satin bodice and brushed wool skirt divided by an inverted curvilinear V seam at center front, echoed by two curved tab pockets at hip, the topstitched hem of curvilinear surplice closing aligning with top edge of pockets, crisp bow at left shoulder, asymmetrical leopard collar, long sleeve, dress labeled: Christian Dior/Boutique/Paris/3297/401 and jacket labeled: Christian Dior/Boutique/Paris/330/401.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Lace Cocktail Dress By Dior, Spring/Summer 1960

This strapless, white lace cocktail dress was probably designed by Yves Saint Laurent at Christian Dior for the Spring/Summer collection of 1960. The dress is fitted onto a silk corset and is made from a large-scale floral lace, which is supported by layers of silk and nylon net. Some of the lace pattern has been cut away and then reapplied to the material to give the dress a three-dimensional surface.

The House of Dior often created short evening and cocktail dresses from lace and other delicate materials for their Spring/Summer collections.

A pair of shoes with a similar floral pattern were made by Massaro of Paris to complement the dress.

museums.leics.gov.uk

 

[DosViolines]

Yves Saint Laurent for Christian Dior Chine Evening Coat
French, 1959
Ribbed silk dyed with purple and blue watery floral pattern, with wide band collar accented with small bow tie, elbow length sleeves, labeled: Christian Dior/Paris/Printemps-Ete 1959, no. 99552.

doylenewyork