1936-2008 Yves Saint Laurent

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Long evening dress in black velvet and white satin belt - Fall/Winter 1984/1985
Photographed by: Alexandre Guirkinger, Unknown

This elegant evening dress recalls the couturier's love for deep black velvet. A Baroque-inspired golden brooch made by goldsmith Robert Goossens delicately closes a draped belt that cinches the waist.

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"Bonne conduite" dress - Christian Dior Spring/Summer 1958
Photographed by: Willy Maywald, Alexandre Guirkinger
Model: Unknown, Victoire Doutreleau

On the occasion of the 65th anniversary of Yves Saint Laurent's first collection at Dior, a look back at the Trapeze line, introduced by the couturier in 1958. With the fitted waist that characterized the house, the young man prefers a softer line under which the body disappears. Fewer fabrics, more lightness, the signature of Yves Saint Laurent is shaking up fashion. It is a success.

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Embroidered jacket with sequins and bunches of grapes - Fall/Winter 1988/1989
Photographed by: Sophie Carre, Guy Marineau

In 1988, Yves Saint Laurent presented for his autumn-winter collection this organza jacket embroidered by the house of Lesage. Like a painter on his canvas, the designer imagines a composition of blue, purple and green sequins, on which are superimposed two bunches of yellow grapes adorning the model's shoulders. For the fashion show, the couturier associates it with a yellow satin skirt, giving rise to a daring association of colors of which he had the secret.

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Some photos from his days as an assistant at Dior.

Life - March 3, 1957
Photographer: Loomis Dean






artsandculture.google

 

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Debut Collection - Spring/Summer 1962, Part 1
Photographer: Paul Schutzer









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Debut Collection - Spring/Summer 1962, Part 2
Photographer: Paul Schutzer







artsculture.google

 

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Debut Collection - Spring/Summer 1962, Part 3
Photographer: Paul Schutzer







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Couture dress and shoes | Yves Saint Laurent & Roger Vivier | Fashion Unpicked | V&A

"Discover a dazzling 1960s evening dress embellished with precious metal threads, beads, sequins, diamantes and coral (which was commonly used in fashion at the time but is now protected). This dress was designed by French couturier Yves Saint Laurent, who took the helm as Head Designer at the prestigious House of Dior when he was only 21 years old. Assistant Curator Chloe Gilbert talks us through the dress’s exquisite craftsmanship, construction and luxury materials, and explains how this dress was on the cusp of a new era of modern fashions for women. She also unboxes a matching pair of evening shoes, designed by legendary shoe designer Roger Vivier, famous for re-inventing stiletto heels."



via Victoria and Albert Museum Youtube Channel

 

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Costume d’académicienne de Marguerite Yourcenar, 1980
Photographer: Sophie Carre

On March 6, 1980, the writer Marguerite Yourcenar was elected a member of the Académie française. She was the first woman to receive this honor.

For her entry, Yves Saint Laurent imagined this ensemble made up of seven pieces: a long cape in black woolen cloth, a Dolman jacket in silk velvet with trimmings, a blouse and a skirt, as well as a stole in fashioned chiffon. The silhouette was also accessorized with a belt and a pair of leather gloves (not visible in this photo).

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Coat - Fall/Winter 1964/1965
Photographer: Matthieu Lavanchy

This coat from the 1964 autumn-winter collection is made of silk organza from the house of Bianchini. Entirely embroidered with sequins by the house of Rébé, it gives the illusion of sparkling panther skin.

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Printed silk satin long dress - Fall/Winter 1973/1974
Photographer: Sophie Carre
Model: Dominique Pommier

For autumn-winter 1973, Yves Saint Laurent imagined fluid and pure dresses for the evening that he mixed with more fanciful models, such as this silk satin dress with printed flowers on a navy background. The motifs are enhanced with sequin embroidery by Mesrine. The dress has a shawl collar, long sleeves gathered at the top of the sleeve, a flared skirt and a middle front closure with 13 gold buttons.

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Long green damask evening dress - Spring/Summer 1994
Photographer: Guy Marineau
Model: Magali Lemoine

Yves Saint Laurent declared about his collection in Le Figaro: 'I wanted to rework my great classics until they had achieved absolute purity. Style, nothing but style.' Indeed, this collection of 61 designs returned to the essential features of the Saint Laurent style with its many references to past collections.

The show ended with a range of silk damask dresses in pastel shades that seemed to have escaped from Versailles, as the one pictured here. In terms of fabric, colour and form they were reminiscent of 18th-century court dresses.

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Cocktail dress, homage to Serge Poliakoff - Fall/Winter 1965/1966
Photographer: Guy Marineau, Matthieu Lavanchy, Gérard Pataa

Yves Saint Laurent was the first major couturier to enter into a genuine dialogue with artists. For the Autumn-Winter 1965 collection, alongside a series of dresses in tribute to Piet Mondrian, he also translated the abstract, architectural universe of painter Serge Poliakoff through textiles. With this work, Yves Saint Laurent transposes his paintings into three dimensions and puts art "in motion".

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Patchwork dress - Spring/Summer 1969
Photographer: Alexandre Guirkinger



Harper's Bazaar UK April 1969 | Vogue March 15, 1969
Photographer: Sarah Moon, Bert Stern

Nan Kempner was one of Yves Saint Laurent's most loyal customers. Born on July 24, 1930, the heiress was considered by the couturier to be "the chicest woman in the world".

Among the nearly 376 Yves Saint Laurent creations that would join her wardrobe, she would commission this model from the spring-summer 1969 haute couture collection. Made in a patchwork of colorful patterns, this dress is reminiscent of the "gipsy" movement of the late '60s.

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Vogue Archive via justaguy
lizeggleston

 

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Yves' designs could be gaudy or even garish at times but he was such a good colorist.

 

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Evening set, dress with embroidered patchwork skirt and velvet bolero - Fall/Winter 1984/1985
Photographer: Sophie Carre
Model: Edia Vairelli

Yves Saint Laurent presents this model for the autumn-winter 1984 haute couture collection. The set consists of a black velvet top and a red velvet bolero as well as a majestic patchwork skirt. The arabesques appliqués are made by the artist Andrée Brossin de Méré.

The silhouette, a reference to fauvism and its rich color palette, is accompanied by a pair of purple suede and pleated satin gloves, a “passementerie” belt and costume jewelry.

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Australian Women's Weekly (March 24, 1971) (Originally from Harper's & Queen December 1970)
Photographer: Helmut Newton


trove.nla.gov.au

 

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Harper's Bazaar April 1982
"Yves Saint Laurent: 20 Years of Fashion"
Photographers: Richard Avedon, Richard Ballarian
Featuring: Audrey Hepburn, Dayle Haddon, Clio Goldsmith


HB Archive

 

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Harper's Bazaar November 1982
"Paris Nights" by Marian McEvoy
Photographer: Patrick Demarchelier
Featuring: Yves Saint Laurent, Amalia Vairelli, Violeta Sanchez, Suzy Amis, Carol Alt, Deborah Collette, Emanuel Ungaro, Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Bohan, Unknown


HB Archive

 

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Harper's Bazaar November 1983
"Bazaar's All Stars... The Best in Fashion"
Photographer: David Bailey
Featuring: Yves Saint Laurent, Anette Stai


HB Archive