1960s : Fashions of a Tradition-Changing Decade

[DosViolines]

Sale 05CT01 Lot 1108
Rare Nixon for President Paper Jacket
American, circa 1968
Referencing a Mao jacket, natural color ground pieced then printed, the body with vertical and horizontal print of "Nixon" in red and blue star, the set in long sleeves with "Nixon" down front and two stars on back, mandarin collar, five white button center front closure, size Medium, labeled: Mars Disposables/Mars Manufacturing Co./Asheville, N.C., U.S.A./Fire Resistant Unless Washed or Dry Cleaned.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Group of Nixon for President Memorabilia
American, circa 1968
Comprising a cotton "Nixonette" sheath dress with blue bodice and red skirt delineated by an applied white "N" zigzag, size M, labeled: Jetset/via Footville/Wisconsin/U.S.A., and accompanying note from original owner stating there were sixty Wisconsin Nixonette girls that followed him around the state wearing white go-go boots (as well); a creme cotton sleeveless dress repeat printed with red stars, creme pique sailor collar, box pleat skirt, red and white striped ribbon belt, size 6, labeled: Margaret's/Lubbock/Texas and Oscar de la Renta Boutique, with a copy of Ladies Home Journal of July 1972 showing President Nixon with his daughter Julie who is wearing this design, a "Vote" hat, a "Nixon's The One" vinyl banner, record and leaflets.

doylenewyork

 

[seanutbutter]

I love the pictures you find, DosViolines! The yellow pages dress is too fun.

 

[LUXXX]

The W Magazine spread with Brad & Angelina from 2005 was a great editorial on 60's fashion...

And of course Mad Men is coming back tonight and that is very accurate.

 

[DosViolines]

seanutbutter - Well, I try...

LUXXX - I love Mad Men. I read that they gave each character a specific wardrobe. In a season you might see the same outfit or clothing item several times.

Campbell's Soup Paper Dress
American, 1960s
The sleeveless A-line dress printed with interpretive Campbell's Soup labels in red, white and black, the dress labeled: The Souper Dress/No Cleaning-No Washing-It's Carefree/Fire Resistant Unless Washed Or Cleaned, with original envelope.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Two Paper Dollys Paper Designs
American, 1960s
Each of stylized flowerhead motif, the tent dress black and ecru, the two-piece bathing suit red and white with drawstring bag, each size M, each labeled: Paper Dollys by Smart Set Sportswear/Made in USA.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Michaele Vollbrach Black Swimsuit
American, 1960s
Of black lycra and cotton sateen, deep V-neck surplice bodice with straps crossing at back, diaper peplum extending to self ties around waist to fasten at left side with red spiral wood buckle, labeled: Michaele Vollbrach/ Sofere.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Two Marimekko Platelet Pattern Dresses
Finland, 1960s
The first of black cotton printed in brown and white Poloneesi pattern, A-line with round neckline and button closure at left shoulder, elbow length cuffed sleeve, two oblique slash pockets at right side, center pleat at back, self sash, the second a smock with black ground and oversize cerise and pale gray circles, saddle shoulder three-quarter sleeve, round neck with tie at back, self sash, each labeled: Marimekko/Suomi/Finland; Together with Vuokko Red Smock, and a group of various Marimekko sashes.

doylenewyork

 

[seanutbutter]

I love Mad Men. I read that they gave each character a specific wardrobe. In a season you might see the same outfit or clothing item several times.

Since we're on the topic of Mad Men, here's a neat picture of the show wardrobe, which, according to The New York Times, features both "vintage and vintagelike" pieces. How I'd love to try on some of those dresses!

Olaf Blecker for The New York Times (nytimes.com)

There was an interesting article in the newspaper today that discussed the undergarments (namely girdles) that the cast of Mad Men wears in order to achieve the vintage look. I would love to get one of these Rago girdles for myself, but I have a feeling they're too expensive. Anyway, it's fun to read about.

AMC series mines classic undergarments to achieve look Monday, July 21, 2008
By Rosa Colucci, Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

The Rago Long Leg Body Briefer. The company's foundatios help "Mad Men" keep its authentic look.

For hundreds of years, undergarments have been a curse and a blessing to women everywhere. From Victorian-era boned corsets to the braless late '60s to the high-tech fabrics of today, it's enough to make a woman want to be a man -- at times.

For "Mad Men" costume designer Janie Bryant, undergarments have almost become an obsession.

That's because "without the foundation garments, it's not going to happen."

The "it" is the look. That perfect silhouette of the hourglass figure -- a curvy, nipped-in waist, body-hugging skirts and perfectly shaped breasts underneath clothes with an impeccably smooth fit -- never a bra or panty line in sight, no sloppy fashion, no "muffin-top" bellies hanging out.

The undergarments of that early '60s era were true foundation garments, meant to shape and lift.

Finding such pieces capable of doing so these days has proved to be a challenge for Ms. Bryant, who sings the praises of Rago Shapewear, the only company in the United States that still makes the girdles and long-line bras of that era.

Rago Shapewear President Justin Chernoff says the appeal of these garments is simple: "They just work."

The 65-year-old company has patented various sewing techniques and ensures quality control -- everything is made in its factories in the United States.

His advice for consumers is buy the right size. The biggest mistake women make, he explains, is choosing the wrong-size garment.

He recommends measuring before buying and selecting garments that feel as if they are firmly "hugging" you and holding you in.

Bryant says the "hugging" feeling left many actresses unsettled as they got used to the constricting garments. Everything changed: their posture, their walk -- even their breathing.

"At first, when we put the girdles on them, it was, 'How am I going to work?' Now, it's 'This girdle is not tight enough,' " she says.

But she insisted that the actresses wear such clothes and undergarments so they could experience the time frame they were portraying.

Bryant wanted each character to have a "signature shape" and credited cutter/fitter Joanna Bradley for creating a basic pattern for all of the principals' bodies.

Bryant is excited by this work. "For the younger generation, they get to see something new. Some have asked, 'Well, what do I do with it?'"

post-gazette.com

 

[DosViolines]

Ah interesting...I tend to forget the role undergarments played in creating the overall silhouette of the 50's and 60's

Christian Dior Cocktail Dress, Early 1960s

whitakerauction

 

[DosViolines]

Vinyl Coat & Thigh-Hi Boots, 1960s

whitakerauction

 

[DosViolines]

2 Leonard Long Knit Gowns, 1960s

whitakerauction

 

[DosViolines]

Fold-Up Dress for a Portable Society
American, 1964
The lime green satin design representing the structural shape of an iron bridge, namely, a sunray pleated circle emanating from cutout neckline with applique self pompom trim, rolled hem, no label.
See front cover of The Saturday Evening Post magazine Post, October 17 1964 and p.24 for Designs on Your Future article by Evelyn Jablow, a copy of which is offered with the lot.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Miss Paper Pompom Dress and Earrings
American, 1960s
The mini tent design of white plastic coated crinkled paper with red satin ribbon camisole straps, six inch diameter red plastic pompoms trimming hem, matched red pompom pendant earrings, labeled: Miss Paper/Division of Mitchell Brothers Inc..

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Two Baby Ruth and Butterfinger Paper Dresses
American, 1960s
Each a sleeveless tank, the first of vanilla ground with Baby Ruth logo printed vertically at center front and back, the second bright yellow with Butterfinger logo printed vertically front and back, each labeled: MM/Wastebasket Boutique by Mars of Asheville, NC.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Couture White Embroidered Organdy Late Day Dress
French, late 1960s
The modified tent smock with roll over bias collar and cuffs, shoulder yoke with long gathered sleeves, with an allover half step spectacular broderie anglaise pattern denser toward the hem, the foliate design laced with strips of bias organdy, single organdy slip layer, no label.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Pertegaz White Organdy Wedding Dress and Veil
Spanish, late 1960s
The fit and flare trained gown net backed, set-in flared sleeves, round neckline, all hems, edges and seams applique with scalloped white silk thread, self backed ivory silk chine sheath underdress, the church veil gathered to comb at crown with 27 inch frontispiece and 93 inch train, labeled: Pertegaz/Barcelona-Madrid.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Heim Fuschia and Gold Brocade Dress Suit
French, early 1960s
The empire over bodice attached only at V-neckline and extending to divided ties at back, pleated darts, cap sleeve, boned net bodice underdress with brocade slender skirt, the round necked jacket with bracelet length sleeves, pleated pockets at side front, attached self ties, labeled: Heim Actualite/Cannes/Paris/Biarritz.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Martin Deep Violet Silk Twill Cocktail Dress
Cuban, early 1960s
The modified sheath seamed at front sides and center back, round neckline extending to a double floating panel at back with U-shaped neckline, a deep band of lavender and lilac, beaded loops, faceted iridescent beads and rhinestones at hem, self covered belt with bow, labeled: Martin Original.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Pink Chenille Embroidered Gown
Attributed to Givenchy, French, 1960s
Of changeante silk faille, the sleeveless bodice with bateau neckline gathered and wrapped over to interior creme faille boned bustier creating padded effect, densely embroidered overall with pink chenille, rhinestones and seed beads in fleur de lys style motif, bias self ribbon tie belt at curved waistline dipping in back, controlled pleat skirt with curved seams each side front, backed and silk lined, no label.

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