1970s-1990s The Japanese Avant-garde
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softgrey
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hmmm...ok...i see...
i have to say that i haven't seen any of that stuff in any of the exhibits or retrospectives that he's done...
and he chose all the pieces himself that he felt were important in some way...
so he must not have thought that this was so successful either...
i think a bunch of wonky collections came out around this time...
this is the moment when everything shifted really hard from the 80's to the grunge-y 90's...
it was not a good moment for fashion in general...imo...
and yes--- thank you user500 for the images...
it's fascinating since i had no awareness of that piece...and the whole pinocchio collection?...
marchen---another word i will have to go and look up now...
thanks runner!...
...
eta---does marchen mean fairy tale or something?
i have to say that i haven't seen any of that stuff in any of the exhibits or retrospectives that he's done...
and he chose all the pieces himself that he felt were important in some way...
so he must not have thought that this was so successful either...
i think a bunch of wonky collections came out around this time...
this is the moment when everything shifted really hard from the 80's to the grunge-y 90's...
it was not a good moment for fashion in general...imo...
and yes--- thank you user500 for the images...
it's fascinating since i had no awareness of that piece...and the whole pinocchio collection?...
marchen---another word i will have to go and look up now...
thanks runner!...
...eta---does marchen mean fairy tale or something?
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softgrey
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THE EARLY DAYS #2: Yohji Yamamoto
Returning to the early days of a fashion designer’s work is an interesting exercise that maps an intellectual and aesthetic journey, an evolution of means and commercial motives, and a general progression with the times. For A#2′s Yohji Yamamoto this has been a long road, as he began showing in Paris over two decades ago in 1981.
Crowned the master of black, Yohji was a revolutionary who interpreted classical European tailoring into a new and exciting silhouette, falling with a new exaggerated volume and asymmetric cut. With a loose androgyny, Yohji introduced a generation to a comfortable luxury built on draping and texture, crisp whites contrasting inky black and rare bursts of bold colour.
Through the years, Yohji has not wavered from his vision, despite the dramatic changes in mainstream style and within the work of other designers. As the images below illustrate, elements of his work can be seen following through many collections, from the earliest images we have from 1983, all the way through to his most recent show. From a polished lace-up shoe to a flowing white shirt, his signature is unmistakeable, and his legacy an inspiration to many as a benchmark of fine craftsmanship and a sensual approach to avant-garde fashion.
All images, rights reserved, Yohji Yamamoto.
Above: Yohji Yamamoto Spring Summer 1983
Above: Yohji Yamamoto Spring Summer 1985
Above: Yohji Yamamoto Spring Summer 1989
Above: Yohji Yamamoto Fall Winter 1988-99
Above: Yohji Yamamoto Spring Summer 1990
ablogcuratedby.com
softgrey
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‘Une image de Marc’, Marc Ascoli for Yohji Yamamoto
“Marc would enter your head,
like a voice that distorts,
like a mirror that forces you
to look at yourself differently.”
-Nick Knight
Creative director Marc Ascoli spent over 10 years at the helm of Yohji Yamamoto’s label, shaping the aesthetic vision of the company through creative collaborations that produced iconic and beautiful imagery since 1984. Working with some of the industry’s leading photographers and pushing their skill and vision to its most avant-garde, Marc has effectively channeled the intangible charisma and spark of Yohji into a commercially viable image that remained aspirational and mysterious.
Marc Ascoli is now the creative director of Martine Sitbon’s Rue du Mail.
ablogcuratedby.com
“Marc would enter your head,
like a voice that distorts,
like a mirror that forces you
to look at yourself differently.”
-Nick Knight
Creative director Marc Ascoli spent over 10 years at the helm of Yohji Yamamoto’s label, shaping the aesthetic vision of the company through creative collaborations that produced iconic and beautiful imagery since 1984. Working with some of the industry’s leading photographers and pushing their skill and vision to its most avant-garde, Marc has effectively channeled the intangible charisma and spark of Yohji into a commercially viable image that remained aspirational and mysterious.
Marc Ascoli is now the creative director of Martine Sitbon’s Rue du Mail.
ablogcuratedby.com
runner
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hmmm...ok...i see...
i have to say that i haven't seen any of that stuff in any of the exhibits or retrospectives that he's done...
and he chose all the pieces himself that he felt were important in some way...
so he must not have thought that this was so successful either...
i think a bunch of wonky collections came out around this time...
this is the moment when everything shifted really hard from the 80's to the grunge-y 90's...
it was not a good moment for fashion in general...imo...
and yes--- thank you user500 for the images...
it's fascinating since i had no awareness of that piece...and the whole pinocchio collection?...
marchen---another word i will have to go and look up now...
thanks runner!...
eta---does marchen mean fairy tale or something?
yes and I think it was not a good moment for designers either, at least in tokyo.
I remember there was a trend of designer-brand avoidance rising as a reaction against the designers' clothes boom from the 80's. what started to be extremely popular was an "authentic" label such as junya man has been collaborating with since its start. there was a big revival of all such labels. representatively, 501's were deified, even among designers.
funny because marchen is a word we use ordinarily here in the far east.
it's interesting to know what is marked and what is unmarked over there.
about the wooden chest piece, it's a bit grotesque (albeit playful, poetic) like bracelli's work from centuries ago. but it can be a certain form of rebellion, anti-classic.
in that sense, it may be consistent with his work.
and we have this kind of chest lion btw.
tamabi.ac.jp
chinaalacarte.web
bradbrace.net
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thank you a lot for posting!
i really like it also when he employs discoloration (i assume it is), the y's collection from the beginning of 2000, when he made this with a long row of looks, is one of my absolute favorites (unfortunately a video of it on youtube is deleted by now).
marchen i think is adopted from the original german word maerchen, which means fairytale.
i really like it also when he employs discoloration (i assume it is), the y's collection from the beginning of 2000, when he made this with a long row of looks, is one of my absolute favorites (unfortunately a video of it on youtube is deleted by now).
marchen i think is adopted from the original german word maerchen, which means fairytale.
runner
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the fading reminds me of what you do when you decide to give a new life to an old kimono you never wear any more.
also, of his collections there are some that show slavic influence.
this F/W 91 seems to be one of them.
de chirico and decolorization
tokyochuokai
isis
posterous
also, of his collections there are some that show slavic influence.
this F/W 91 seems to be one of them.
de chirico and decolorization
tokyochuokai
isis
posterous
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