A Retrospective: Lanvin under Alber Elbaz (2001-2015)

[fashionista-ta]

I thought it would be nice to have a retrospective thread where we can remember everything that was iconic about Alber's Lanvin.


No doubt there will be some commonalities, but since he made a real effort to provide different facets for different women, one person's standouts could be completely different from someone else's.


I will be back to post more a bit later ...

 

[anlabe32]

I thought the F/W 09 show was the best he ever did. I still dream about that show.

 

[Scotty]

My favorite show of his is probably S/S 08 or S/S 11, but they're all so nice and i love all of them. Alber's Lanvin is probably the only reason i kept up with the last few fashion months.

 

[fashionista-ta]

Pictures please I would like to see what you find most iconic and memorable ... what you will miss the most.

 

[Lola701]

Great idea! I think you should change the title as his first collection was Fall 2002

 

[Lola701]

I really loved what he did at Lanvin. I can say so many great things on this time at the house.

First of all, his Lanvin was for women...not girls. He had that great vision of a coquetish and strong woman who wasn't afraid of jewellery and who was done (hair, make-up, nails) in a effortless way. It may sound banal but for french fashion and french style, it was quite fresh.

In terms of construction, he was an innovator actually. He was the first to make the "industrial zip" a signature; He has re-introduced volumes, raw edges , big jewelleries...etc.

While all his collections had some iconic looks/moments, here are my all time favorite shows from him:

-FALL 2002:His first one, everything was there! So light and yet opulent. Rich colors, big furs and of course beautiful drapings. Perfection!

-SPRING 2003: As beautiful as his first one. A lesson of lightness.

-SPRING 2007: His sexiest show. He has always been about sensuality and that time, he really did something surprising, kinda futurist and very fashion forward!

-SPRING 2008: The collection that started the Lanvin mania. A deserved standing ovation and an haunting Meisel campaign. And those rich colors!!

-SPRING 2009: A lesson of volumes. Everything was very precious, almost like pastries. A very yummy collection.

vogue/ livingly/ coolspotters

AND he did some really beautiful Resort/Prefall collections + that Acne collab was one of the best thing ever (i've almost bought all the pieces).

 

[fashionista-ta]

Great idea! I think you should change the title as his first collection was Fall 2002

And the last Spring 2016 The years in the title are those he was working for the house. Maybe the collections info could be added as well.

 

[Steddycam91]

Alber at Lanvin between 2006-2009 resulted in some of the best cocktail dresses ever, IMO. That period holds a special place in my heart because that was when I first started to look at fashion images, and all those one-shouldered dresses and dark printed/sequined dresses sort of encapsulated Parisian fashion for me. And I remember first seeing footage of the shows, with that dark lighting and that pulsating music...It was just so irresistible.

 

[fashionista-ta]

picasaweb, yoox

I love what you posted, Lola. I completely agree that Alber's Lanvin was for women, and also about what an innovator he is. This is something I think he largely hasn't gotten credit for, because I think you have to be fairly close to the clothes--if not in them!--to see many of the innovations. I think there is some awareness of how he's worked in some cases with very few seams (though the knit items, including dresses of knit fabric, may have more seams than usual).

With the raw edges, asymmetry, industrial zips, and maybe more, he was pointing to an imperfection that I think is an overarching theme of his work for Lanvin. This made his work very appealing to me, because I see life as inherently imperfectable--so why not just start off that way?

You also showed the brilliant colors and drama--saturated and intense, the fabrics billowing or gorgeously draped. In my opinion, he has no equal for draping.

Below is the back view of a pencil skirt I have that would be difficult to improve on. It has an exposed zipper, no hem but a raw edge, the most beautiful darts, and just amazing stretch wool-blend fabric. It sits so lightly on the body that it feels like wearing air.

The purple blouse (I believe the first piece I ever bought) shows saturated color, his amazing draping, and subtle asymmetry. I also find it forgiving, comfortable, easy to wear--all pretty typical characteristics. If only it came with instructions for the dry cleaners!

Alber has said that he thinks about what women want to hide, and that's definitely clear when you put his clothes on. The teal dress is also a great example of innovation. The only seams are at the front and the shoulders. The sleeves are extremely comfortable to wear in every sense. The front view doesn't show them at all ... I'll see if I can take a picture that does them justice. This dress is also quite dramatic and attracts quite a lot of attention--possibly too much! Really gorgeous color and fabric.

One thing I really like about the colors he used is how complex they were--something that can be difficult to show on a monitor. Teal blue, petrol blue, peacock blue ... beautiful, unique colors that you don't see coming and going. Even his Vert really stands out.

Enough for tonight

 

[Fashionstuff]

Great idea! Love the thread!

I want begin in 2010 . Fall/Winter 2010-2011 ,than spring/summer 2010
( i made mistake and started to upload the photos first from f/w 2010-2011 instead s/s 2010)

In 2010 Alber Elbaz has experimented with asymmetry, wrapped drapery and single-sleeves.
And than Event : Couture Version of collaboration Lanvin X H&M .

photos source : vogue.com
photo source : ellecanada.com

 

[Creative]

S/S 2008 and F/W 2008 are his masterpieces.

 

[gazebo]

When I think Alber's Lanvin this is the SHOW that immediately comes to mind. It was pure magic!
I can't believe there is no decent full show video of it

 

[george5]

Well, at this point everything has been said about Alber's work at Lanvin, but I've always admired his dressmaking skills; so light-handed to the point that some dresses looked like They were floating in the air.

He had a lot of great collections but my favorite one, that I still love is Fall/Winter 2014; the perfect alchemy between austerity/restraint and exuberance/romance:



vogue.com

 

[Spike413]

One of my favorite things about Elbaz's Lanvin, and there were many things that I loved, was his innate ability to make very lighthearted clothes seem grounded in reality while making very sober clothes seem fun. How he always managed to do that, in any collection regardless of overriding mood, I just don't know. In nearly anyone else's hands the things he did -- from the intense color, to the dense embellishment, all the way to his signature take on volume that seemed almost half done or deflated but still grand -- would be way too much. The only other designer I can think of who managed to marry all of those things harmoniously at all times was Lacroix, and in his case the wearability factor could always be questioned. But as Elbaz proved over and over again he knew what his women wanted and needed. As someone who never wore his clothes I will say that I always enjoyed seeing them in person. There was always a surprise element, like, say, sequins veiled in very fine tulle or a grosgrain ribbon inside holding all of the drapery in place, that made them feel really special to look at.

A few people have already highlighted some of my favorite Lanvin/Elbaz collections, but I'd have to say that my absolute favorite of his collections was Spring 2004, partly because it's the first one which I was really aware of as it went down the runway, into magazines and finally into stores, and partly because it's probably his most deceptively simple. At the time and still to this day the seamless construction of his satin dresses and pieces amazes me. The fact that something can feel so random and in the moment but still look impeccable fascinates me, and the way in which he married very straightforward glamour with true simplicity and ease was, in a way, a precursor to what he did for the following decade at the house. These pieces still look incredible to me.

style.com

 

[fashionista-ta]

One of my favorite things about Elbaz's Lanvin, and there were many things that I loved, was his innate ability to make very lighthearted clothes seem grounded in reality while making very sober clothes seem fun. How he always managed to do that, in any collection regardless of overriding mood, I just don't know. In nearly anyone else's hands the things he did -- from the intense color, to the dense embellishment, all the way to his signature take on volume that seemed almost half done or deflated but still grand -- would be way too much. The only other designer I can think of who managed to marry all of those things harmoniously at all times was Lacroix, and in his case the wearability factor could always be questioned. But as Elbaz proved over and over again he knew what his women wanted and needed. As someone who never wore his clothes I will say that I always enjoyed seeing them in person. There was always a surprise element, like, say, sequins veiled in very fine tulle or a grosgrain ribbon inside holding all of the drapery in place, that made them feel really special to look at.

A few people have already highlighted some of my favorite Lanvin/Elbaz collections, but I'd have to say that my absolute favorite of his collections was Spring 2004, partly because it's the first one which I was really aware of as it went down the runway, into magazines and finally into stores, and partly because it's probably his most deceptively simple. At the time and still to this day the seamless construction of his satin dresses and pieces amazes me. The fact that something can feel so random and in the moment but still look impeccable fascinates me, and the way in which he married very straightforward glamour with true simplicity and ease was, in a way, a precursor to what he did for the following decade at the house. These pieces still look incredible to me.

Yes Here is a shot of one of those grosgrain ribbons. The other pictures are the sleeve I mentioned ... full under the arm, pulled back to expose the shoulder. Note the use of both sides of the fabric, as well as the origami fold.

The last two pictures are of an origami bow hidden in the side seam/zip of a blouse, and the belt inside the same blouse that serves the same purpose as the ribbon. (It may also make it easier to zip the blouse up the side.)

To me these touches express the intimacy of dressing a woman. You really only fully appreciate his clothes when you wear them. (It's notable that Ms. Wang never did.)

I also like the way you describe his talent ... I would never have thought about it that way, but I think I know what you mean.

 

[fashionista-ta]

When I think Alber's Lanvin this is the SHOW that immediately comes to mind. It was pure magic!
I can't believe there is no decent full show video of it

Loved the video (only slightly distracted by the nail fungus ad ), especially all the models' (and Catherine Deneuve's) comments about the clothes. I love the black dresses with the colored satin insets. I would say that his drama is always grounded in elegance, which makes it wearable.

 

[MulletProof]

The title makes me sad!, but then 15 years at the same job? gotta move on and fly!. He's still young. I hope he finds something great..

I've imported my teenage obsession with this dress into my adult years.. I always wanted to have it, I don't even know why anymore (a love for pleats that would only expand even more..), I had this file in a computer (RIP) that had all angles and editorials where this dress was used ...



that collection in general is easily my favorite he ever did, I loved him when he did all these shows that were so opulent looking and rich in details but I liked the simple, thick, textured collections more and this collection ended up influencing me a lot in terms of taste...

Fall 2003


I also adored this one... I think in this was my favorite period from him (2003-2004), it was more rigid, less 'flowy'.. he still revisited pleats and uniform touches but it was in parts of collections, not everything including atmosphere.

Fall 2004

[livingly.com]

I loved Fall 2005 so much.. but it got a little cutesy at times, and Spring 2003 with 20s detailing and jewels. After a few years, I think the collections got too red carpet friendly, or maybe my interests change.. but it was always nice spotting wonderful pieces.. one of the few designers always worth giving attention to regardless of what you're into. Will be missed but now I'm somehow more excited to see what he's going to do next..

 

[Spike413]

^ Fall 2003 and 2004 were both highlights for me as well! Fall 2003 some managed the nearly impossible feat of marrying something sort of sharp and aggressive -- all of those fabulously rigid pleats, the silver beads that almost looked like needles from a distance -- with something that was very traditionally pretty to the point of almost being a cliche (all of the gorgeous lace, hourglass silhouettes, the bows in the hair). Looking at it now those clothes really haven't aged at all. You don't look at them and see something over a decade old.

Fall 2004 was just opulent and for some reason always made me think of the Weimar era. I mean it did have a sort of 20s feeling in general but Weimar Berlin, or my idea of Weimar Berlin anyway, was the immediate impression. Maybe it was the fact that it was very louche and decadent, but all in very serious, subdued colors and fabrics. I'll never forget that final dress he showed, the velvet one with the fox collar that transformed from cocktail length to gown when the model unclasped it. And I can't not mention the ad campaign. It's by far my favorite of all of his campaigns, and that's saying something because he was responsible for quite a few really good campaigns.

styleregistry.livejournal.com

 

[MulletProof]

^ you described both collections better than I could, I never associated it with Weimar Berlin, maybe because the military bands screamed France, but you're so spot on, at least I have the same idea that it was that combination of a military influence but probably more out of nostalgia, in some strange relationship with all the creativity and excess of the 20s. The catwalk and ending of that show was beautiful too.. very dark.

 

[Phuel]

...(a love for pleats that would only expand even more..)...

Can we start a club for “Pleats-Addicts”? I don’t know what it may be, or what triggered my fascination for it, but it’s become a mainstay attraction for me to this day.

If I were to be a woman (I would look like a barbarian one…), a floor-length pleated dress would be the first piece I would wear. And Helmut’s acrylic-coated pleated skirt. Then I may just know how Edie’s character in The Danish Girl felt when he first tried on his wife's stockings...