Adrian Appiolaza - Designer, Creative Director of Moschino

[LadyJunon]

Appiolaza may not have the most marketable appearance, but his CV is impressive:
• studied print design at Central Saint Martins
• junior designer at Alexander McQueen and Miguel Adrover
• 4 years each at Philo's Chloé and Miu Miu
• senior designer for 2 years at Jacobs' Louis Vuitton
• design director for 2 years at CWK's Chloé and 10 years at JWA's Loewe

 

[AnaD]

Never judge a designer based on how they personally dress.

This. At least it shows that he has his own sense of style and can separate himself from his art.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

For those who don't know this is all of the designer pieces he is collecting/renting :

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He has a HUGE Maison Martin Margiela archive...

The archive shared between him and his partner is INSANE! To the point where I wonder how on earth they were able to source these pieces, and how much it all costs. Same thoughts with the likes of Steven Phillips and Alex Fury.

I'm rooting for this guy. Sure his dress sense isn't my kind of thing, but the image they used to promote this is one of his outfits. Again, that archive and all those years in fashion he's got a massive wardrobe, which I think is great for the likes of working at Moschino. They have a love for fashion, but with a jovial spirit that isn't rooted in hype or a cult like mentality. I'm excited to see what's gonna happen, even though the quick turnaround to get the collection isn't ideal. But that's also a blessing because they'll be going based on creative instinct and intuition, something a lot of designers and up starts lack.

 

[Lola701]

The archive shared between him and his partner is INSANE! To the point where I wonder how on earth they were able to source these pieces, and how much it all costs. Same thoughts with the likes of Steven Phillips and Alex Fury.

They work in fashion. They have probably bought things on sales, sample sales or even retail at the time and there were a lot of dépôt-ventes back in the day in Paris before Vestiaire Collective or Vinted or EBay where people sold their designers’s stuff.

And tbh, you kind have to be strategic about things.
I remember the Margiela bubble exploded in the mid 2010’s. When Margiela was there, the hype around the brand wasn’t what it became. People sold their Margiela stuff for nothing. The people who went to the sample sales of his last collection have a treasure in their hands. It’s the same for a lot of brands.

I’m building my own little archive of designers that I like and it’s interesting to see the bubble fluctuate. Vintage Alaia when Azzedine was alive and right before the arrival of Mullier wasn’t that expensive. Now, Lanvin by Alber Elbaz is super cheap and I’m starting look at Prada before Raf.

Sometimes I envy the way men are able to detach themselves in order to build a fashion archive. I only buy things that I like and that I would wear. Everybody loves Margiela. I loved it when Martin was there but the only collection I have runway pieces from is spring 2007 but everybody in fashion wore Margiela. So I have a lot of Margiela but it’s normal stuff. I never thought that those collections would become part of fashion history because Margiela and the legacy of his work at the time wasn’t what it became.

But I really respect designers who have a deep sense of fashion history. A lot of designers are into images and narratives but when you know the history of fashion, the techniques and you are curious at that extend, it’s fabulous. It shows a real passion.

 

[JohannesL]

I actually like designers have their own personal styles/senses, and judging from his ins account, I think he is always having a lot of fun with fashion, which is a good signal for a brand like a Moschino. Just imagine a quirky approach to the classic Margiela, Yoji, and CDG for Moschino!

 

[bc collector]

I just hope this guy will scrape off that veneer of trashy taste that Jeremy Scott brought along during his tenure (the magic of Franco Moschino was his being excessive but always classic at heart, never trashy). And that he will give us more fun but wearable clothes and less runway theatrics.

 

[tourbillions]

he will definitely be judged by the way he looks and that way he carry himself, atleast before he proves himself. He is after all going to be heading a huge brand and his personal style's the first thing people who doesn't know his background will see. Unfortunately were now in that era where articles heavily focus on visuals than merits.

 

[Deleted member 141309]

I get why he would fit in at Moschino. Celinismes and Loewettes mixed with his OTT CDG-meets-circus aesthetic would work great at something as goofy as Moschino. Personally, none of this is in my taste, but I think this is a good match. Can't judge how good will it be before we see it. Being a CD and a Chief of *insert department* is very different as you have someone above you to direct and control. We have seen Sabato take over Gucci, and he worked at mid 00s Prada, whereas 2004-2010 Prada was untouchable in terms of fashion and overall direction.

Taste, talent, capability, reflection are all too pivotal in such positions, so I would proceed with caution. This is why despite many missteps recently, I still admire Jonathan and his Loewe, or Miuccia and some of Prada. It is fascinating to read and watch their interviews, they articulate their thoughts very well, and it is obvious that beyond the superficiality and shallowness of "I like '89 and 90s Margiela, I am so refined and tasteful, yet not so mainstream', both of them are very intellectual and reflective humans.

 

[vogue28]

A sneak peek at Adrian's debut Moschino collection:

 

[youthinasia]

A sneak peek at Adrian's debut Moschino collection:

Oh no, honey

 

[tourbillions]

sorry for the people who rallied behind him hope this preview is not what's ahead of us

 

[gallianostan]

the jw andersonification of fashion, congrats to all you loewe fans

 

[LadyJunon]

Next time I hear of an appointment of a new creative director, I'll just default to them being sh*t. It's easier that way.

 

[Lola701]

That skirt is rather intriguing…
As for the Mohair Smiley sweater? Quite in the spirit of Franco even if mohair is the fabric I would never wish for someone to wear lol

 

[YohjiAddict]

He also wears CdG to go out in Paris, so you know confidence is the last thing he lacks. I actually knew him first because of his personal style…which I appreciate.

Very happy that a Latin American designer is getting such a huge opportunity, I hope that he finds his audience and that he doesn’t try to transform Moschino into something that is there only to please some critics à la Marni.

 

[aracic]

I'll reserve judgement, but we're already outside of Jeremy's camp universe. Might be a refreshing change.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

That is what you show as a preview? My man…..

 

[jeanclaude]

Underwhelming preview.

 

[LadyJunon]

A preview of Appiolaza's first menswear collection for Moschino:

 

[youthinasia]

A preview of Appiolaza's first menswear collection for Moschino:

I would actually wear that polo in the second slide.