Alexander McQueen Pre-Fall 2023 London

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Nimsay]

6/10



does a good job of being a pre-fall collection. no new ideas and expands on the repertoire

 

[Kite]

That Print is vile.

 

[jeanclaude]

Someone at the atelier swapped fabrics for cardboard...and Sarah did not notice it...

 

[Cocteau Stone]

It's fine and made well. But purely from a clothes point of view, it's really bloody boring but it is a pre-collection. Just feels like the same collection for the millionth time over.

The print also looks like a coagulated container of liposuctioned fat in some looks.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Bethenny Frankel-core

The print also looks like a coagulated container of liposuctioned fat in some looks.

It's actually a commentary on the cultural shift in our zeitgeist that sheds light the on the moving goal posts within the concept of luxury as plastic surgery relinquishes its exclusivity and becomes accessible to a wider array of individuals beyond our societal elites

 

[LadyJunon]

Bethenny Frankel-core

It's actually a commentary on the cultural shift in our zeitgeist that sheds light the on the moving goal posts within the concept of luxury as plastic surgery relinquishes its exclusivity and becomes accessible to a wider array of individuals beyond our societal elites

Knowing how fashion works today, I'm not sure as to whether this a joke or not...

 

[Machinegumm]

It looks so uncomfortable and stiff.

 

[reese06]

It does look stiff but it's still well designed in a sense and I would take this over a lot of other mediocrity that gets pushed.

It's good but formulaic at this point so I'm a bit bored. She needs to explore, however she probably isn't really being given the opportunity given the plans to grow the brand.

 

[tourbillions]

i always love her work at mcqueen and dont want anyone else there. But I wonder how their formula is working numbers wise. Thought at this age, putting on the big shows like mcqueen the man did for the instagram/social media crowd would have helped them grow the brand. Atleast by having more buzz. I'm sure her clothes would feel even more mcqueen with that kind of presentation and its not like she doesnt have a strong point of view to build a grand set around from. If some brands' basic clothes deserve intricate presentations, why not sarah's actually designed and perfectly tailored offerings.

 

[LadyJunon]

Thought at this age, putting on the big shows like mcqueen the man did for the instagram/social media crowd would have helped them grow the brand. Atleast by having more buzz. I'm sure her clothes would feel even more mcqueen with that kind of presentation and its not like she doesnt have a strong point of view to build a grand set around from. If some brands' basic clothes deserve intricate presentations, why not sarah's actually designed and perfectly tailored offerings.

That might actually do a lot for the visibility of her work and might help her fully shake off the "replacement" status the press impose on her.

Her designs, all across the board, are more than strong enough to hold their ground against a theatrical setting. Imagine Coperni's robot show, Courrèges' clouds, Balenciaga's snowstorm with Burton's clothes.

McQueen has had the same show producer, Gainsbourg and Whiting, since 1995, so I'm sure they know how to execute an unconventional show. Of course, the showmanship would really have to be more than a fancy set to work.

My question is, however, whether Kering would be willing to allow a smaller house like McQueen to overshadow Balenciaga, Gucci or Saint Laurent

 

[gallianostan]

Her designs, all across the board, are more than strong enough to hold their ground against a theatrical setting.

i would have to disagree. her oeuvre has been mostly pitiful since at least 2017, at least when it comes to womenswear.

 

[LadyJunon]

i would have to disagree. her oeuvre has been mostly pitiful since at least 2017, at least when it comes to womenswear.

In truth, it's mostly because her work became very formulaic: frock coats, lace dresses, leather corsets, taffeta gowns, braided hair, symmetrical prints, combat boots, red everywhere.

 

[tourbillions]

i would have to disagree. her oeuvre has been mostly pitiful since at least 2017, at least when it comes to womenswear.

pitiful compared to what though? if anything shes highly underrated just because she chooses to show season after season the mcqueen who wasnt troubled. And people always looking for the "edge" which was mostly there just for showmanship. Under all of that was always perfectly constructed garments with a strong DNA.

 

[Lola701]

That might actually do a lot for the visibility of her work and might help her fully shake off the "replacement" status the press impose on her.

Her designs, all across the board, are more than strong enough to hold their ground against a theatrical setting. Imagine Coperni's robot show, Courrèges' clouds, Balenciaga's snowstorm with Burton's clothes.

McQueen has had the same show producer, Gainsbourg and Whiting, since 1995, so I'm sure they know how to execute an unconventional show. Of course, the showmanship would really have to be more than a fancy set to work.

My question is, however, whether Kering would be willing to allow a smaller house like McQueen to overshadow Balenciaga, Gucci or Saint Laurent

I actually think that she has found the right formula for her.
Theatrics only works for designers who have that sensibility in them. Now with the big brands, there’s some sort of expectations but it shows when it’s not organic.

And it was part of Lee’s story telling. As Tom Ford said, fashion was his Art. It’s not Sarah’s Art. And I think her message is clear and consistent.

‘It’s amazing to see that Alexander McQueen as brand enjoy the benefits of what Lee did and that status of « Avant-Garde » or « Edgy » when in fact it has become a quite conventional and almost conservative house. That’s why I often say that Sarah would be great for Dior.

I think that at Dior, her potential and her romantic affinities would be expressed in their glory.

‘They can always hire internally following her departure as I don’t think my ideal candidate would ever get the job.

 

[Tchi]

Cold boring marketing