Alexander McQueen F/W 2015.16 Paris

[dodencebt]

What everybody else said, completely irrelevant. It's not pushing any boundaries.

 

[ALAUU]

It's the same every season.

 

[Deleted member 130879]

But then think: who is able to design like Lee? I can only think of one person... and I don't think people would want him there.

 

[gazebo]

https://www.youtube.com/user/FatalefashionIII

 

[squilliam]

But then think: who is able to design like Lee? I can only think of one person... and I don't think people would want him there.

Galliano?

 

[KKnardi]

valentino-givenchy'ish although there's interesting pieces in it; black leather trench looks astonishing.

all the capes and coats look great as well.

wish there was more co-relation between the different themes in this collection.

 

[Phuel]

All the criticism of her being unable to live up to McQueen the man is so unfair. She's not a visionary storyteller like McQueen the man-- not many designers, even the very talented ones Ghesquiere and Philo are on the same league as McQueen the man was.

I've always liked Sarah as a very strong dressmaker and her tailoring skills are very sharp. Her offerings for Pre-Season collections always come off more effortless, not contrived and not forced-- all characteristic that seems a permanent fixture when it comes to the main collections, unfortunately. Pre-Season very much seems to me who Sarah Burton really is and has a point: Clean, ladylike designs with an anglocentric style that flatter the wearer. Simple as that.

I've become adamant when it comes to her main collections for this label. She, much like Iris, seems trapped in the McQueen archives and just rehashing what McQueen the man had already done, over and over. But I'll give Sarah the advantage over Iris: at least she's not doing the same collection-- "Plato's Atlantis", as Iris is, over and over and over. This collection is very much McQueen the man's "The Girl Who Lived In the Tree". There are some "nice" pieces there-- the 60s-style coats and trenches in the textured leathers. I mean, there always are "nice" pieces in these Sarah collections, but they really are just a pale shadow of their glorious originals, with no signature of their own-- unless it's something with a skull on it, I suppose... This label has become a sad ghost that's damned in Purgatory, and is just haunting the here and now in its wraith-form clinging onto it's extraordinary legacy. Still pretty, but vacant.

I wonder if Sarah's just content to be in the shadow of McQueen the Man. I wonder if she plans to break away one day...?

 

[freja]

^ Completely agree with this. If Sarah were at Valentino or Chloe or something, we'd appreciate her ten times more. Following in the Lee McQueen footsteps is totally impossible. I even have a hard time with the Galliano prospect, no matter how much I love John. It's just not the same. And absolutely not someone like Iris or Gareth Pugh. For the love of god, no.
The more I see post-Lee McQueen, the more I agree with his prospect of totally shutting the house down upon his death. I can't envision anyone else doing it justice other than the man himself.

 

[ultramarine]

People tend to forget Sarah has ALWAYS been a part of McQueen the label. Maybe the most femenine, froufrou part of the label. But she is McQueen.

This one has slightly a bit more of edge, and I commend her for that, but I really want edge. Didnt Lee said he wanted people to be scared of the McQueen woman? We are being smittened here. Its good, but not great. To me, the darkers/black pieces are the most succesful, whilst those lace booties are fug

 

[Psylocke]

Stop it with the frills and bows and all the other useless embellishments

 

[Caffeine]

Why don't they just close the brand for good and have her do something new? She can't be at McQueen to pretend she is McQueen forever. Do something!

 

[TaylorBinque]

it started off great, i thought wow this is elegant and something new for her, and then the rest happened. same old silhouettes, shapes, embellishments, only in a darker mood and different colors. the rose dresses are borderline marchesa territory.
however, i really do love the outerwear.

So much agreed. You read my mind. I thought this was going to be interesting, then the ruffles come up and the lace shoes and all. The brand needs to do something.

 

[Nomar]

People need to seriously stop comparing her to Lee. She can never be him and thus people need to stop with the expectations because it's never going to happen. She has incorporated her own vision/direction while also trying to continue the legacy of Lee. It's no easy task and she should be applauded for doing it so successfully IMO. I think she is doing a wonderful job for the brand and I couldn't help but think of all the wonderful creations that would never been seen if the brand just closed straight after Lee's death. She is talented and although some people may think she is 'ruining' the house, she has also done much to help the house (i.e. Kate's wedding dress). I have much faith in her so I hope she continues the great work!
Personally I really liked this collection and I prefer the darker McQueen as I wasn't too big on last seasons whole Japanese influence. When I first saw it I was a bit unsure but once I got a proper look and I thought it was wonderful. I love the high collars and the details look impeccable (as usual). The hair and makeup is always gorgeous, unique and interesting with this show being no exception. The setting and music were both fitting for the collection and I just love the dark, creepy, twisted vibe. However what does irritate me though is the SS12 references I can clearly see throughout but especially in the last 5 looks. I would prefer it if everything was original and unique but I guess I have to understand that it's probably not possible. Designers sometimes do need to look at their own archives for inspiration.
The standouts would definitely have to be those two rose dresses and I think it's definitely a collection (like most McQueen collections) that I'll like better once I understand the concept. I feel like there is such a narrative with this collection and it gives me fairytale/story vibe to the collection which I just love. <3 <3 <3

 

[elle_gb]

Dark romance I quite enjoy it,there're beautiful clothes for wearing and editorial shoot.Those couture detail is marvelous it's new Mcqueen, I feel like she can't do the extreme like Lee himself did she doesn't have that fire to push it outside the box too bad.

 

[YeohRocks]

People complain about her too much. She has been doing a great job in my opinion. Would you rather have McQueen go towards the direction sl*t Laurent and Gucci are going?

 

[MayYing]

Ummm, I believe Iris van Herpen is a more suitable choice for this brand

 

[gossiping]

Would you rather have McQueen go towards the direction sl*t Laurent

i love it

it’s okay but I feel like we’ve seen it before..suppose its good she’s being self referential rather than celine referential like everyone else though

 

[perhydrol]

I really like it. Sarah's winter collections are usually better (ok, let's forget about f/w 12 and f/w 13...) and this one is the best so far. I feel like it was a good, powerful statement, like a celebration of femininity and sensuality. I can see some interesting silhouettes and some pieces were just so beautiful.

 

[models_vlada]

People tend to forget Sarah has ALWAYS been a part of McQueen the label. Maybe the most femenine, froufrou part of the label. But she is McQueen.

To all Sarah Burton haters this couldn't be more well stated, she was Mcqueen's right hand, and let's not forget that once Mcqueen died it was an opportunity for Kering Company to make the brand more wearable, and that's her mission right now, it might not be as over the top or eclectic as Mcqueen usual shows, but i never understand how is it that people always expect the arriving designer to be as good as precious one, and that it practically do the same. There's no consistency and no relevancy for her to try to do the same as Mcqueen.

In my personal opinion, i loved Mcqueen, but i have been enjoying Sarah Burton's work with please, i like her and it makes me like there's some ground to earth on what she does, and the way she shows her collections it's so clean that just fits my taste entirely. The only problem i see is that she's running the risk of becoming predictable, but that's inherently of being at a label like Mcqueen, i don't even think how Mcqueen itself could top himself from the wonderful collections that he has done.

 

[ultramarine]

To all Sarah Burton haters this couldn't be more well stated, she was Mcqueen's right hand, and let's not forget that once Mcqueen died it was an opportunity for Kering Company to make the brand more wearable, and that's her mission right now, it might not be as over the top or eclectic as Mcqueen usual shows, but i never understand how is it that people always expect the arriving designer to be as good as precious one, and that it practically do the same. There's no consistency and no relevancy for her to try to do the same as Mcqueen.

In my personal opinion, i loved Mcqueen, but i have been enjoying Sarah Burton's work with please, i like her and it makes me like there's some ground to earth on what she does, and the way she shows her collections it's so clean that just fits my taste entirely. The only problem i see is that she's running the risk of becoming predictable, but that's inherently of being at a label like Mcqueen, i don't even think how Mcqueen itself could top himself from the wonderful collections that he has done.

I agree, the matter is Sarah, as we can see, does a lot of dresses and veers into "pretty" territory. Lee would NEVER have done that. So I guess both parties are correct?