Alexander McQueen F/W 2015.16 Paris

[Spike413]

I can't speak for everyone, nor would I want to, but I think the problem with Sarah at this point in time (four and a half years in) is that she truly seems to have a very one dimensional view of who the McQueen woman, her McQueen woman, is.

That's the truly frustrating thing about it. I've never wanted or expected her to be Lee if for no other reason than it's a futile endeavor, but I did expect her to at least honor the house's legacy while carving out her own. She's skilled enough to make impressive clothes, and her pre-collections have proven that she's also skilled at making more commercial clothes as well, but aside from the fact that there's a massive gap between the two sides of the business, the woman she presents to the world always ends up being this sort of alien romantic. I don't mind that her woman skews less macabre, but a little edge, a little imperfection, even a little variation in color palette for Christsake, would be most welcome.

And the funny thing is that with this collection -- as with many of her collections, actually -- the source of inspiration does have a recognizably Alexander McQueen sort of slant to it. It just isn't developed beyond a very literal storyline. If she worked so closely with the man himself for many years then I don't see how some of his ability to weave a story or build a mood through clothing didn't rub off on her.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

i like the outerwear and don't mind some of the frills either, but i find there are just too many ... flowers. i'd like to see a little more edge, myself, and i think she has achieved that in some of her other collections, like the honeybee one, for example. she's doing a pretty good job at the house in my view, and maybe, just maybe, lee would've been glad it's her.

 

[Phuel]

To all Sarah Burton haters this couldn't be more well stated, she was Mcqueen's right hand, and let's not forget that once Mcqueen died it was an opportunity for Kering Company to make the brand more wearable, and that's her mission right now, it might not be as over the top or eclectic as Mcqueen usual shows, but i never understand how is it that people always expect the arriving designer to be as good as precious one, and that it practically do the same. There's no consistency and no relevancy for her to try to do the same as Mcqueen.

In my personal opinion, i loved Mcqueen, but i have been enjoying Sarah Burton's work with please, i like her and it makes me like there's some ground to earth on what she does, and the way she shows her collections it's so clean that just fits my taste entirely. The only problem i see is that she's running the risk of becoming predictable, but that's inherently of being at a label like Mcqueen, i don't even think how Mcqueen itself could top himself from the wonderful collections that he has done.

Being McQueen's former right hand woman validates this type of recycled, revised and rehashed imagery from past McQueen collections Sarah's been churning out for this label???

If anything, it proves to me the vision, the creativity, the storytelling was all McQueen's. Sarah can't seem to get away from the McQueen archive, and is more reliant on her former boss's vision, with no vision of her own. Her prominently role as McQueen's "right hand", she was also the lead in the menswear department of the house, which was known more for it's classic and strong tailoring: Sarah's strength. Being anyone's right hand doesn't mean they are contributing actively to the creative process-- it just means they are a trusted individual and can take directions well and understands what need to be done. I suppose she may as well continue to copy his collections, since Iris and Gareth seems to be thriving on a career on blatantly being "inspired" by McQueen's world.

I don't think anyone's just hating on Sarah because she's not McQueen the man; that's such a blanket statement. And I don't think anyone has the inside source as to why she is consistently referencing McQueen's collections when she's proven to be a very capable dressmaker and tailor. I totally agree with freja: Had Sarah been the lead at Valentino or Chloe, I think she would be afforded much more freedom to instill her brand of influence and evolve into her own, and probably do well critically and commercially as well. I'd love to see that happen, because I think she really would do well away from her former boss's shadow.

Even when McQueen was alive, his pieces that were in the shops were very wearable, with his cocktail party dresses being the best sellers. Even the "Plato's Atlantis" collection was very commercial once in the shops. I'm not a woman, nor do I wear women's clothes, but I was extremely tempted to buy a dress from that collection because of just how genius its construction was; made from a single piece of fabric-- and how simple it was. So the McQueen label didn't become more accessible and wearable because of Sarah, the man himself already did that.

 

[squilliam]

I think this label should be shut down or they should give it to someone like Galliano, some designer who likes to create are with passion and emotion. I think Sarah should go somewhere else, she really is talented and she makes great wearable flattering pretty clothes when she stays true to herself instead of following McQueen. She would be great at valentino or gucci or chloe.

 

[MON]

I quite like this. Some looks might have been the same old same old, but it's a stronger collection for her. I love the dark romance touch of it and the hair actually works. The last few looks were meh for me though. I just wish she stuck with the direction where the first few looks were going. I also love how this looked so thematic and it's like a warrior princess-y type.

With that said, I am in no way hating on Sarah. I think she does an okay job for McQueen. It may not be memorable and iconic, but at least it's okay and wearable. I also agree that she was McQueen's right hand and she is McQueen, BUT, my thing is, I am not asking her to drastically change the entire look of McQueen overnight. No. All I want from her is to add something new to the table. I want her to break out from strategic and formulated equation and add a new variable there. I want her to add something new each and every time so that in the long run, those new ideas can replace the old ones slowly and not abruptly. I do not see that. I mean there were some new ideas here but halfway through the show, she reverted back to the same old style of hers. I want her to grasp something new and stick to it! Break out of your own mold Sarah! McQueen is a brand that is known to always think outside of the box and you doing the same will not ruin Lee's image but will only make it live on. I think he'd want his successor to think the same way he did. Because what Sarah is doing now makes other people say that "McQueen is no more" and that is not how to give justice to your predecessor's legend. I just miss the McQueen that breaks boundaries and makes me question everything that I have believed in fashion. Sarah can definitely do that she just needs the push she needs.

I love her feminine touch to the brand, but I wish she gives us collections that reflect different kinds of women. Give me sexy. Give me nerdy. Give me anything or or, you could also give us nothing (nothingness as a collection would be intriguing).

I do not doubt Sarah's talent. We all saw how capable she is. The only problem for me is that I think that the aesthetics of the McQueen brand does not coincide with her style and preference. She's more of the commercially good and wearable while McQueen is more in the crazy and out there. I don't think Galliano will be perfect for McQueen tbqh. Galliano might be crazy and eccentric like McQueen, but put them side by side, it's still different. I just don't see it.

 

[Miniuka]

I think we'll all have to accept the fact that those shocking, darker, aggressive collections are gone, because they were Lee's view and taste. Of course she won't go there. But like some said, it doesn't mean she can't pull it off.
Personally I didn't find the newest collection that impressive. It was a bit vamp, a bit dark, but yeah, no big deal. Still good. I mean, quite unique and with a certain magic to it. She might not been impressing most of us, but still, she can do nice things. Perhaps she wishes the brand to go a big more commercial, that's the sad part, although McQueen made his early collections to shock the audience, I think even he sort of slowed down a bit. I miss that in the latest collections. All that magic that only he had

 

[squilliam]

I think for Lee they were never just clothes, they were his works of art and it was very personal. It's not like how Dior simply made elegant clothes, McQueen had something to say. I never understood why this label wasn't just shut down after his passing, unless he changed his mind at some point and decided that he wanted it to continue. For all we know he may have stated that Sarah should continue his work. Lee was about shock and awe, he wanted to get under your skin. The McQueen idea was so strong that it can't be altered to fit another designer the way the as the tics of chanel and dior can.

 

[Miniuka]

I never understood why this label wasn't just shut down after his passing. Lee was about shock and awe, he wanted to get under your skin. The McQueen idea was so strong that it can't be altered to fit another designer the way the as the tics of chanel and dior can.

Ditto.

 

[Miniuka]

Peek behind-the-scenes at Lee McQueen’s controversial early shows by i-D Magazine. A must read

We love you, Lee

i-d.vice.com

 

[gazebo]

Might be off topic but this interview was published today


https://www.youtube.com/user/SHOWstudio

 

[Miniuka]

Thank you, gazebo