Alexander McQueen Resort 2021 London

[THD96]

Nicolas owned 10% of Balenciaga and while he made some compromises in order to make the brand profitable (in 2007 they became profitable)

But if it's profitable why they are parted in such messy way tho?
Which make me so sad because after that NG have not reach the same creative height like his Balenciaga glory.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

To make such perfect tailored suits, you have to get some talent. She is a designer not a creative director for sure but her collections have enough "edge" to please the ones who can afford them.

 

[Avonlea]

This is Dolce Gabbana level of creativity.

 

[Lola701]

But if it's profitable why they are parted in such messy way tho?
Which make me so sad because after that NG have not reach the same creative height like his Balenciaga glory.

Because Nicolas only owned 10% of Balenciaga. Kering still owned 90% and had expectations that did not matched Ghesquiere's vision.
Why would he reach his creative height at Vuitton? It's not the same house, the same need or the same expectations. Balenciaga was pretty much Nicolas's vision. Vuitton is Nicolas's work for the most important luxury brand in the world.

 

[THD96]

Because Nicolas only owned 10% of Balenciaga. Kering still owned 90% and had expectations that did not matched Ghesquiere's vision.
Why would he reach his creative height at Vuitton? It's not the same house, the same need or the same expectations. Balenciaga was pretty much Nicolas's vision. Vuitton is Nicolas's work for the most important luxury brand in the world.

Because I feel like he miss working in a rich heritage fashion house. Sometimes his Vuitton collections are very Balenciaga, maybe he just frustrated with LV have no Identity so he can't relies on anything, so often we see no cohesion in his collections.

 

[Lola701]

Because I feel like he miss working in a rich heritage fashion house. Sometimes his Vuitton collections are very Balenciaga, maybe he just frustrated with LV have no Identity so he can't relies on anything, so often we see no cohesion in his collections.

His Vuitton are very Balenciaga simply because Balenciaga was very him. His work for Balenciaga was an interpretation of Balenciaga through his eyes, his influences, his taste.

I don’t know if he miss working at an heritage house or if we miss seeing him work at an heritage house. His Vuitton is selling, his work is appreciated and the Arnault are happy. The rules are clear and he doesn’t have to fight for his ideas to be executed.

What designers wants? Total creative control and total support from the executives. When you are clever and realistic about the brand you are working for, you can find a right balance....Even more when you are backed-up by good sales.

 

[WAVES]

Dior by Sarah Burton. it’s the only thing I see.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I am pretty sure I heard him say that once he died he would want his brand to be shut down because having someone design for his name wouldn't make sense. It could be a double standard of mine bc I find it cool to create while looking thru the lens of someone else, and I will admit I liked some of Sarah Burton's stuff when she first started, but this stuff right now is just not doing his name justice and I want it to stop. It sucks so bad and there's a plethora of this crap out there already. All this does is make me dream- or I mean have a NIGHTMARE about adding it to the landfills of clothes that already exist while everyone and their mother thinks they are gonna be a designer superstar and hoard $

 

[GivenchyHomme]

All I see here is what to wear when you're in your 70's.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Fair opinion.

I’ve always liked Sarah because I know people like her— I’ll even admit I can relate to her: She’s academically and technically very skilled, and possessed of a laser-like precision in her execution. She’s not a creative-visionary (nor a famewhore), even not naturally creative. But she works hard and seems to be modestly inventive in her design abilities by experience. I can understand why McQueen designated her as his right-hand woman for all those reasons. She’s more deserving of praise and her position than the likes of that person at Givenchy, or the frumpy/dumpy department-store blandness of Maria Grazia and her tired feminism-lite gimmicks, or no-talent but all-representation posterchild Kerby.

This brand of design in this offering is very technically-sound in how graciously flattering and how masterfully bespoke the designs are. And like classic bespoke, it’s nothing new nor inventive— and even considered "what to wear when you're in your 70's". But women will look beautiful wearing these politely sartorial tailored fashions in luxurious fabrications for years and years when smartly styled— not just one night to be thrown aside and forgotten. And frankly, I’ll take this brand of thoughtfully-designed fashion that compliments a woman anytime, anyday, anywhere to desperately-seeking-attention clownwear which drowns a woman that gets hyped as progressive designs these days :cough:current-era Comme/Gucci/JW:cough:

 

[Lola701]

Dior by Sarah Burton. it’s the only thing I see.

Tbh, Dior is closer to her sensibility and aesthetic than McQueen. She would do wonders for Dior and at least add some strength and modernity to the house.

 

[PierreGotha]

Honestly, Lee McQueen's aesthetic is better off when he was still alive. A person like him is rare and it would take an extreme amount of creative endurance in order to level his genius. His designs came from distress and melancholy. Which eventually took a toll on his mental health; resulting into his tragic demise. I doubt anyone would want to experience the process and outcome of what lee endured.

Sarah is the only heir-suitable for the job, Can she hold the forth? Definitely! Would she able to create something that would surpass Lee? Impossible.

Fortunately for Sarah her current recipe for design is selling and gaining enough reputation to be relevant. Alexander McQueen under Mrs. Burton is one of the few Houses left that is profitable for making clothes that are sartorial and feminine with a slight edge. All thanks to Sarah's creative dogma of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".

 

[Lola701]

I am pretty sure I heard him say that once he died he would want his brand to be shut down because having someone design for his name wouldn't make sense. It could be a double standard of mine bc I find it cool to create while looking thru the lens of someone else, and I will admit I liked some of Sarah Burton's stuff when she first started, but this stuff right now is just not doing his name justice and I want it to stop. It sucks so bad and there's a plethora of this crap out there already. All this does is make me dream- or I mean have a NIGHTMARE about adding it to the landfills of clothes that already exist while everyone and their mother thinks they are gonna be a designer superstar and hoard $

I think it’s fair to say that when he made that statement, he did not imagine the circumstances of his death and I don’t remember if he made that statement prior to Tom Ford courting him to be part of Kering...

Sarah is a good and talented designer. The problem is that she has totally diluted the spirit of McQueen. She does great clothes, great quality clothes that have a mass appeal but that lacks a bit in personality. I don’t want her to be tortured or necessary Dark but maybe something more complex. Because I think the beauty of Lee was that he had that tough and edgy image but he also combined it with classic references to HC or historic costumes.

I’ve always said that I wanted to see Giles Deacon do McQueen because he had that story telling touch but was also able to do classic Couture inspired stuff and more daring silhouettes. The only fear I have with my idea is that Katie Grand will be involved...

When I see the new generation of designers, I really worry about a house like McQueen for example. Designers who classically trained but who also have their own universe is very rare today...

 

[Phuel]

Tbh, Dior is closer to her sensibility and aesthetic than McQueen. She would do wonders for Dior and at least add some strength and modernity to the house.

I get that the original post was meant as a dismissal on Sarah, but you’re absolutely right: she would be ideal, and fantastically superior for that return of a modern ladylike era for the brand that is truest to Christian Dior spirit— not this (at best) mum-and-daughter mediocrity of Maria Grazia's. Whether Sarah would leave McQueen is another story… (I suppose all those Chrome Hearts cheap knockoff skull jewelry— and that damned skull scarf, are still doing well enough for to make a profit for Kering that they’ll keep Sarah around.)

 

[jeanclaude]

Sarah Burton is more talented than Maria-Grazia Chiuri...but both are mediocre in terms of creativity, vision and style.

But now the level in the fashion industry is so low, that it has reached rock-bottom. When talented designers are few and far, it is way easier for mediocre designers to shine.
Put these two in a high-level creativity context (like the 90s)...and they would have gotten a job in fashion as design assistant of another design assistant (if they were lucky enough).

Really, it is so depression-inducing to think about what fashion was like in a no so distant past...and to see the boredom monster it has became into.
Alexander McQueen, Helmut Lang, Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester, Martine Sitbon, Jean Colonna, A.F. Vandevorst...all gone now!
And the ones who still remain in the industry are totally burned out at this point...

What a sh*tty time we are living in fashion now! The triumph of mediocrity and boredom!

 

[Phuel]

^^^ That’s going with the assumption that all the Greats you mentioned would still be offering that highest standard in 2020 that they were leading with in the 90s. My two favs— Helmut and Gaultier, were already coming up short for their very last collections. They’re still my favs, but I’m glad they left the industry, and in their own terms when they did. And maybe that’s why they’re still my favs. Maybe it’s for the better that someone like Miuccia is also is leaving because at the subpar-rate she’s churning out collections these last few years, I’d hate to end up resenting her and her brand (the way I can’t said Vivienne Westwood anymore). Whereas now, I can simply detach myself from this brand and still revere its past glorious collections and campaigns.

And if I made an effort to salvage this era, there are still some whom are plugging away strongly and still full of creative vision: Galliano, Haider, Yohji, Tom (… to some extend), Thom (… to some extend). I’ve been watching the Christopher Bailey’s Prorsum presentations of his last few years. And they are solid: The atmosphere, the aesthetic, the mood;; he reminded very British to the very end. And this is what I appreciate about Sarah once the annoying tropes have beens tripped away— more so now then ever: That at the core of her McQueen, she’s remained so faithful to McQueen with how strongly Anglo-Saxon the brand still is. It may not be much, but there’s still soul at the label with her. Compare to Riccardo’s Burberry, and it’s so soulless and corporate now. I’m appreciating the smaller elements now more than ever with a brand, a publication and with an individual. Because, we're not in a time where such things are celebrated nor honoured in fashion.

 

[jeanclaude]

I cannot understand and respect an industry where they want the best fabrics, the best craftmanship, the best fitting and tailoring, the best models, the best sets for a show...but not the best creative designers!

Elitism in fashion should not only be about the price; but also about the ones who are allowed to reach the top of creative positions!

 

[Deleted member 167090]

I think her debut collection SS11 is quite good and she had some good ideas for FW11, SS12, FW12 and SS13. Though not necessarily on par with Lee's spirit, I like that she injected some playfulness into the brand. I feel FW13 was her interpretation of Lee's final collection, which is verging more into her own aesthetics. FW14 is probably her best take in the spirit of Lee. As for the rest, they are not bad, but just Sarah Burton under Mcqueen's name.

 

[fakeawake]

I just think nobody can do tailoring better than her and that's what I focus on. The men's clothes is just as divine as when he was alive, trust me I own blazers from his first mens collection to now. Tailoring WAS McQueens backbone without his amazing tailoring he couldn't have made those amazing dresses. Im ok with it and I think he would be fine seeing his brand going in a more Savile Row direction since when he was alive they wanted him to be another Gianni.