Altuzarra S/S 2022 New York

Yawn. This is very Gabriela Hearst / Gabriela Hearst for Chloe vibes. He's a little lost these days with his aesthetic, isn't he?
 
Probably one of his best collections. There are still some kind of hokey and gimmicky moments, but for the most part it’s pretty good. The black crochet/white suit look ok Gigi is really gorgeous. And I kinda like the puffy belt jackets, too.
 
Strong show, the vibe is interesting and there's attention to the silhouette as a whole and to the small details, indebted to Loewe but there's a sultriness that is unmistakably Altuzarra.

One thing I would take away are the heavy coats, which would be suffocating for spring...save them for next season.
 
I see Iro x Zimmermann x Marant, but it's alright to me, as in not rude in bad taste
 
Coming back to New York is the best thing he could’ve done honestly. Really strong work in some of the final dresses.
 
Yawn. This is very Gabriela Hearst / Gabriela Hearst for Chloe vibes. He's a little lost these days with his aesthetic, isn't he?

If anything I feel like this is what she should be doing for Chloe.

Not sure he has ever mapped out a super strong aesthetic, even after all these years. At least he's stopped copying Carine looks and adding a slit and calling it a brand.
 
I do see some Natacha from Chloe vibes and I see the Celine ss2017 « crochet bra » references but this time, he actually build something around his references instead of just copying and pasting looks like Proenza Schouler.

The closing look on Adut is for me the best look of this entire NYFW!
I would totally wear that and if any of those women in the attendance has a beach-wedding planned for next year, that’s THE dress!
 
It's a really strong show! I'd go even further and say that this is the best show of this NYFW. Even though it was built around Chloé s/s 2019 collection, I think it's very relevant and feels actually fresh, especially now, without having Natacha anywhere for the moment. I wouldn't say it's a direct copy, I think Joseph had taken the idea of hippie modernism and looked at it through his own lens. I hope he'll explore that direction in the future.
 
Oh thank goodness an American designer isn’t poorly ripping off Phoebe and Helmut again. Yes, very Chloe but contextually, he seems to be “inspired” by Julien’s Paco Rabanne with the Moroccan sensibility. His is much more pretty and typically NYC accessible— stripped off any theatrics. And his clothes finally feel light, at least lighter than he’s ever designed. Very pretty and flattering. I'll take it.
 
He made the plus size models look real gooood. i like this collection.
 

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