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bottom line is that the clothes on the racks have to sell therefore these "hot" designers have to have restraint when designing in order to be commercial and competitive in the market.
I'm sure Tom Ford, Helmut Lang, Nicolas Ghesquire also were inspired by designers before them and that's the nature of design that it's referential in a way that ideas are re-interpreted, not necessarily copied, but ideas are meant to be made even better.
I think during times when economy is bad and times are less promising because of war and etc. that is the time you see great new ideas coming, but it's not happening right now because of all the illusions, allusions, misinformation, lack of education brought by the mentality of fast phased everything happens fast fast fast with no quality and dedication to hard work.