Ann Demeulemeester F/W 2023.24 Paris

[Kennnnn]

The collection has finally arrived and it looks decent:
Womenswear
Menswear
Surprisingly, everything stayed most intact through production. Considering how Ludovic's tenure ended, I thought that this collection wouldn't have been produced at all, or at least very heavily edited.

Tbh, most of his business is selling unwearable, overpriced thongs for twins who buy them with OnlyFans money.

Quite a coherent selection, but the price points are too high, especially for the tailoring.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Stripped down to separates away from his presentation, it is a very solid offering of timeless Ann D essentials. If they’re solidly constructed with premium textiles, then that’s really more than good enough. But the mob won’t accept it even if the construction were near-couture— because of who’s involved. That’s just the way that people are when it comes to their designer idols.

Looking at the men’s— and discarding the bombers and sweatshirts, the coats/jackets in leather and wool (the shoulders are a tad too squared for my liking— which always gives a slouching silhouette) the ribbed sweaters and Ann D essential button-down shirts are good. The boots are supreme! …Mullet, you need to stock up on the women's!

 

[Cocteau Stone]

The pricing of the feather... thing is what sends me over the edge. And the poorly made chainmail also should not be priced that high.

The vast majority is fine, if not pretty good. But it begs the question of whether or not Ludovic was really that necessary in the first place to churn out what is the most bare minimum of Ann related designs. The boots and heels are rather gorgeous though.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I‘m sorry but the prices are outrageous, and already have been for years - Her prices were more expensive than Rick's at a time when he clearly had better and more desirable products than Ann, the house was already not doing too well in those years and I fail to see how this would change nowadays, after letting the brand run on autopilot for several years and having the recent hiring misstep.

Ann Demeulemeester's audience is more aligned with her fellow Belgian designers Dries, A.F. Vandevorst or Margiela when it was still MMM than towards the institutional luxury brands whose prices they want to align Ann Demeulemeester with. They would do well to remember that and return back to more accessible prices that better align to the quality of the product.

The question is, who will be willing to pay full retail prices for this? Even at more than 50% off,it's going to be expensive, therefor I would guess a lot will be left on the sale rack.

 

[Kennnnn]

I‘m sorry but the prices are outrageous, and already have been for years - Her prices were more expensive than Rick's at a time when he clearly had better and more desirable products than Ann, the house was already not doing too well in those years and I fail to see how this would change nowadays, after letting the brand run on autopilot for several years and having the recent hiring misstep.

Absolutely agree, it's over-priced.

 

[MulletProof]

Mullet, you need to stock up on the women's!

Nes riding boots .. I'd get them if they were less generic but also, whenever I find myself debating between riding boots or Louises in the morning, the latter always wins! I need to buy extra pairs should the worst happen (discontinuity).

The women's stuff is not exactly horrific but it's that type of clothing that attempts at some level of taste and simplicity and somewhere along the way, ends up being really annoying to look at, and depressing to wear, like this, or this?, I hate it, you'd have to pay me more than the $1k it costs to wear that in public.

 

[donyan]

I always loved Ann’s collections because in spite of the slouchy and sensual styling of the shows the clothes were always both special and wearable. Here they’re either too simple or they’re party dressing ( though what party I’m not sure of). To be honest I’m not sure who the customer for this is, as it’s surely not the former Ann customer anymore