from style.com
BELGIAN designer Ann Demeulemeester was as moody as ever this afternoon with a show that suited the dreary Parisian weather in mood but that served as a fresh shot of her art-meets-style, Antwerp-trained look that has given her heavy weight fashion status since she emerged as one of the Antwerp Six, along with such superstars as Dries van Noten and Martin Margiela, over 20 years ago.
Perhaps we are getting used to more commercial offerings, but it was hard to see ourselves in bunched up swathes of white jersey like bulging babygrows. They kept on reappearing - but much more flattering were the sharply cut tuxedos that sometimes accompanied them or others that had flatter fronts to show off fine silver chains with miniature scales hanging from them – far easier to imagine ourselves, or Demeuelemeester's long time muse, Patti Smith, wearing those.
Clinking piano music replaced rock 'n' roll, while oriental brocades in white, black, fuchsia or orange and tan and black stripes lightened a heavy mood that was compounded by seriously serious looking models.
Demeulemeester played with mixed textures and varying shades of a limited colour palette as fabric was apparently randomly moulded and tied, sometimes pleated or knotted, around the body.
Later a further intricacy took hold by way of finely beaded waistcoats and vintage, sparkling embellishments that added a touch of Twenties sass occasionally and were worthy of Tom Binns-style, hardcore glamour.
