Ann Demeulemeester Homme S/S 06 Paris

Ann Demeulemeester's Soiled Chic .

From Fashion Wire Daily .
By Godfrey Deeny



Everything was a tad wrecked, aged, worn or just splattered with paint in Ann Demeulemester's men’s collection presented Monday in Paris, making for a wonderfully ragged debut men’s show by the Belgium designer.

With Paris experiencing one of those delightfully blustery summer mornings that recalled Hemingway’s remark that the city was a moveable feast, the omens seemed positive even before the show began.

Longhaired, poetic models populated Ann’s runway in the ideally chosen Museum of Antoine Bourdelle, a French sculpture whose monumental horses, heroes and splendid old atelier made the ideal backdrop for the collection.

Demeulemeester traditionally shows men’s looks within her women’s shows, but this was the first pure men’s presentation she has staged, allowing one to fully appreciate her singular vision of how us guys should look and behave.

She sees us in suitably lived in power blue cotton dusters, crumpled white jackets, granddad vests worn inside out and beautifully whacked suede jackets cut asymmetrically and with high, often oddly, placed zips. Like with her women’s looks, she accessorizes most looks with trims, strings and, most frequently, with bunches of faux keys, pendants and circles.

Trousers are cut Afghan style, super low in the crotch, and are often just sweat pants, truncated half way down the calf. Shoes come in soiled pinks, miss-dyed whites or painted every which way like the favorite sneakers of a Turner prize-winning artist. We doubt whether many men will favor wearing boots and cropped pants displaying six inches of bare leg, like Ann showed them. But we see a large audience for Demeulemeester’s unique aesthetic.

“Romantic anarchy,” was the designer’s lapidary description when FWD congratulated her post-show.

Though many of our provincial relatives still find her name hard to pronounce, never mind spell, for most of us in the world of style Demeulemeester is viewed as one of the ten best designers in women’s fashion. Judging from this spring summer 2006 men’s collection, Ann is destined to achieve the same status in men’s wear.
 
good article kit, thankyou, if a little pompous/superior - our provincial relatives.....? I wonder who the world of style considers to be ann's colleagues in the top ten....
 
very good first collection, indeed. a bit quirky, but wonderful.....
 
I like it too. I like the kind of sleeziness the whole collection is breathing. You know, with playful styling and nice voluming. Colours are good too and most of the pants are just fabulous! Thatnks for the pics and article!
 
helena said:
good article kit, thankyou, if a little pompous/superior - our provincial relatives.....? I wonder who the world of style considers to be ann's colleagues in the top ten....

i think the author was referring to the top designer list published by that french textile syndicate, i can't remember the name. surprisingly, ann is always in top ten.
 
Spacemiu said:
I don't think it looks like Dior homme, may be the rock style. but Ann had been doing this forever, heidi is obviously inffluenced by her, not the other way around.

Thank you, Space.
 
I LOVE THIS!!!!!!!!!!

completely agree with you Johnny....I've always liked and appreciated her work, but couldn't see myself in most of it....I would wear almost every piece of this look. Including the painted sneakers (which I will be knocking off and wearing this Summer:wink:. I even like the polka dots (soft, you were right on 6 months ago....it took me a while)

(I used to wear my vests turned inside out in high scool:wink: )
 
I think it is too light, too easy:-) but you all say it is the good thing about this collection:-).

I like the short trousers:-)
 
nqth said:
I think it is too light, too easy:-) but you all say it is the good thing about this collection:-).

not me :wink: ^_^ . i agree with you completely, too easy. like i said, i wouldn't be surprised if this was done by a design team and influenced by ann chapelle who now owns a part of Ann's business :innocent: . nevertheless, there will always be awesome pieces, like these jackets.
 
mmmm. well. the pink-ish tracksuit really stands out to me as something i don't like, especially the bottoms. and some of the bottoms in general are problematic for me, the way the shorter length hits the the ankle feels wrong. i would be tempted to pick the next larger size jacket for any man i was dressing in this collection, because i like the cut of the pieces but they often look too small.

that said, i like the vests, the different sleeve lengths, the mandarin (?) collared jackets with a button to one side so that a diagonal line is created. i like a lot of the larger, more loosely constructed pants and shirts. i did the same thing with my sneakers back in high school, so i won't go there again!

overall - i love her work for women, this i am not so passionate about :flower:
 
well for me i feel ann demeulemeesters collections are far far vstronger in the a/w seasons so i'm kind of hoping the next collection is going to be as goon as the womens wear
 
meme527 said:
. and some of the bottoms in general are problematic for me, the way the shorter length hits the the ankle feels wrong.

yes, the 'trousers' were a bit 'off'
 
Regarding the painted sneakers that most seem to dislike, I'll just say that I think they're the best painted sneakers I've seen. They actually look kinda cool and purposefully done rather than just looking like someone accidentally spilled paint on them, i.e. Margiela and Paul Hardnen Shoemaker.
 
I freakin love the painted trainers, esp the darker ones with the pink bits on them. I think this collection is so nice the more i look at it. IT is quite comme, with the bottoned up jackets and rolled up trousers.
 
helena said:
good article kit, thankyou, if a little pompous/superior - our provincial relatives.....? I wonder who the world of style considers to be ann's colleagues in the top ten....
i'd put my money on ...
theyskens, elbaz, prada, mcqueen, philo, van noten...
possibly marc jacobs...ghesquiere...

:lol:...
chris...yup!...there it is...
^_^


i still want the pants... :innocent:
 
I like some of it. I must say that Ann's brillance comes through in the minor details and the looseness of this collection seems delibrate, but with direction. Look at the off the shoulder striped sweater, which is superb. Now, that is something that one may typically see women do (and some might say tacky women, LOL) but it comes off well with Ann...AND I like how she has the model wearing a wifebeater underneath it and it shows, ala girls who show their brastraps underneath the off the shoulder sweater...a commonly done trend for women but with an Ann twist and wearable for men...brillant IMO....

The pants with teh halfways roll up are just silly looking to me, however, the look might have worked had it been paired with some classic Ann boots....does make you wonder if a team put this together, using basic Ann elements but not fully executing the themes :unsure:
 
Johnny said:
I freakin love the painted trainers, esp the darker ones with the pink bits on them. I think this collection is so nice the more i look at it. IT is quite comme, with the bottoned up jackets and rolled up trousers.

yep, i saw that too.
 
helena said:
welcome to tFS rqfsimons

thank you helena. was away for a while but im loving what im seeing now. glad to be reading and seeing all this fasssshion. :lol:
 
kuran said:
It reminds me of CDG... love those sneakers, but I guess I'll be better off trying to make my own like that.. :smile:

That's what it reminds me of as well. But with a moodier Ann D. distinction,of course. B)

I like that polka-dot shirt and alot of the jackets.
 

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