Antwerp Six: Belgium Avant Garde

[Scott]

The stock sales are normally twice a year, most of the Antwerp based designers have them for 2 or 3 days, usually including a saturday. Occasionally they have them for special reasons (the best *ever* was when Raf decided to quit a couple of years ago and left it all behind... and i mean 'leave behind' literally: in a huge stock sale in his workshop... clothes, posters, boxes, anything... that was just, like, out of this world, i couldn't carry it all! Ok sorry gonna stop making u all jealous )

Anyway, the stock sales are advertised in most Flemish newspapers... which I know isn't much use to most of you! I'll have a look out and let you guys know when the next lot comes up.

I've been to the Ann one and wasn't too impressed but maybe it's because i went too late. The Dries stock sale is pretty good too, big, lots of cheap stuff, but also very popular with locals... he also sells his stock of (beautiful) fabrics by the metre there so you get all the Flemish housewives queueing on the first day at 7am to get his fabrics so they can sew their own skirt at home

And no, none of them take credit cards - useful to know!

I've been to Fish&Chips, yeah, its cool... let me know next time you're there!

Yeah,I could have walked out with loads of pieces. Especially some of that Spring '01 with the tie-dye. And everything is generally quite reasonable in terms of price. Especially if you're a die-hard and have no money to shop at Louis. I heard about the one Jurgi Persoons had just before he went bankrupt....that made me salivate more than one can possibly think. Imagine all of his works from earlier seasons together with the most recent for sale....I'd be in a dream world

I hope by the end of the year or early next year I will be back there again. Permanently. I will let you know,for sure B)

 

[faust]

Brussels has some good fashion shops where u can buy Belgian design - STIJL is the best one, in the Dansaertstraat, but there are others.

I liked that store. I got the most beautiful pair of black wool pants there from a little-known Belgian designer Nicolas Dehon. Haven't heard of hims since .

 

[faust]

Hmm, so interesting to see that nqth posted a much more edgier than usual Dries's men's collection, and droogist posted a much more monochromatic than usual Dries's women's collection

 

[softgrey]

oh...just shoot me...MEN IN SKIRTS...!!!......

so heavenly...thanks ngth...and i love the pics you posted droogist...

 

[Scott]

Oh that's one of my faves too,nqth. I liked that other one too...A/W 99,I think...which was a bit more Gothic than his usual ethnic vibe. He did these sort of stiff capelet-cum-shroud-cum-coats...those were brilliant.

 

[droogist]

Hmm, so interesting to see that nqth posted a much more edgier than usual Dries's men's collection, and droogist posted a much more monochromatic than usual Dries's women's collection

Very true. There actually aren't many Dries collections that I haven't liked, but they do tend to get repetitive (which is bound to happen if you haven't missed a season in 25 years). I suppose the slightly different look of the A/W-99 show is one of the reasons why it stands out in my mind. And as a fashion show it was just flawless. Hair, makeup, clothes, location...everything just perfect, understated yet dramatic.

nqth, I loved that men's show too. Very sexy...we had the catalog for that show where I used to work, I would stare at it for hours

 

[skeeterbe]

Oh that's one of my faves too,nqth. I liked that other one too...A/W 99,I think...which was a bit more Gothic than his usual ethnic vibe. He did these sort of stiff capelet-cum-shroud-cum-coats...those were brilliant.

Interesting to see you find that collection so good... For that collection Dries got involved with one of the top stylists of Vogue Italia, Paul Sinclair, which was a very unusual thing to do for him (and still is- he normaly doesn't get too much into the world of flashy magazines and the glam fashion scene). It was Sinclair who was responsible for the whole styling - the black eyes etc. Interestingly quite a few Antwerp insiders thought it was a big mistake because he was trying to be 'trendy' and not being his usual self.

I agree some of the clothes in this collection are good though, even though they are a-typical Dries. I've been trying to find pics of my favourite collection (s/s 1996 I think... my first ever Dries jumper came from that one...) but can't find any!

Oh, and talking about capelets... anyone knows what has happened to Angelo Figus? Another name I haven't seen here yet. I know Dries was supportive of him, and one of his graduation show pics is etched in my mind, a very strong image ... it was a male model in a felt capelet, even though his first commercial collections in the shops were women's wear only.

 

[skeeterbe]

I liked that store. I got the most beautiful pair of black wool pants there from a little-known Belgian designer Nicolas Dehon. Haven't heard of hims since .

He only sold his first few collections exclusively in Stijl and I haven't heard from him since. I think he studied in La Cambre in Brussels, and yes, I really liked his stuff too... I also wonder where he is now...

 

[Lena]

skeet, Angelo Figus shows usually in Paris, off schedule of course.

sad to say.. but lately, i much prefer his shoes to his garments

 

[skeeterbe]

He only sold his first few collections exclusively in Stijl and I haven't heard from him since. I think he studied in La Cambre in Brussels, and yes, I really liked his stuff too... I also wonder where he is now...

Correction... I just googled him and he actually studied in St Luc, not La Cambre, according to this rather interesting article

http://ontoeurope.com/features/2002/mar02/skys_limit.html

 

[nqth]

You are welcome, Softgrey:-)

I think I like the SS00 collection because of its "school" nostalgia, young boys, shunken, creased, sort of "historic" jkts, mixed with sporty freshness. Sport is not a typical DVN isn;t it? (I love the short trousers:-)))) The rich fabric feel and great colour combination are very DVN.

Oh that's one of my faves too,nqth. I liked that other one too...A/W 99,I think...which was a bit more Gothic than his usual ethnic vibe. He did these sort of stiff capelet-cum-shroud-cum-coats...those were brilliant.

Yes. It's a show in the old library, isn't it. I like it too:-) The slightly military inspired jkt that goes to the side, big oversized thick sweater... It was dark and romantic. And raw, "rigorous":-)

Reminds me of a film about a great cook who escaped to a small village where people refused to use anykind of smallest luxury. One day she won the lotto and used all money to cook the best supper ever in her life for the people in the village.

I think it was the first men show from DVN that catched my eyes really. I saw his work earlier but it was always "easy going", colourfull and with ethnic influences. V. beautiful, but sort of "no stare" :-) as about that two.

 

[Scott]

Actually,I think Angelo Figus ended up having alot of financial trouble and stopped his label for a while. He did some collection for an Italian label more recently....can't remember the name exactly. I liked what he did...his shoes were indeed the highlight for me as well.

skeeter,I remember that image. It was like a mummified felt cocoon....indeed very striking image. I'll post some images from his first p-a-p collection when I have some time....very dark and dramatic...

 

[faust]

top right picture, YUMMY!!!

 

[xcoldricex]

i really like the dries collection you posted nqth. too bad i never see pieces like that whenever i look at dries...

 

[Scott]

top right picture, YUMMY!!!

Kind of a play on religion and Baroque. I love those kinds of mutton shapes drawn from that period. And this stuff....perfect example of Belgium's strong contribution to volume....

 

[Lena]

great Figus pics scott

 

[cerfas]

Great topic
I'd love to see more from Marina Yee and van Saene
If you've got images, do provide

 

[MaLkAv]

Wow great pics... I had never saw anything by Figus... thanks for letting me discover!

I gives me a wonderful gothic/romantic feeling (even though I don't like the models... I would have chosen somebody else)!

 

[luxmode]

Thanks for the Dries pics droogist!! I really liked A/W 99 too...Actually, I can't recall a Dries collection that I haven't liked. I'm really hooked .

Thanks to everyone else for the pics and info...great thread!

 

[Estella*]

Angelo Figus A/W 00-01


from anatomique*

thanks for posting these! i love the atmosphere!