ANTWERPEN Other fashion proposals
from 5th of February until 25th of may, 2003
The editors of the leading magazines, the purchasers of the best stores and the most discerning consumers have been celebrating the revolution in Belgian fashion for over fifteen years now.
In spite of this, Belgian designers are discreet stars. Their creativity, their prudent sense of eccentricity and the radical nature of their proposals are the result of a training process and work methods that have combined new industrial technologies with a long textile tradition, achieved largely thanks to the work of the Flanders Fashion Institute, a structure for the training, support and promotion of new talent, which has made Antwerp become a true temple of Belgian and European fashion. During the 80’s, this small city witnessed six of its young students conquer Paris and become internationally acclaimed as “The Antwerp Six”. The youngest designers have taken over from their predecessors, who are barely older than themselves, with an energy that is new and very much their own.
ANTWERPEN Other fashion proposals is an overview of this exemplary phenomenon for cities, designers and fashion lovers in general.
Vicenç Mustarós and Marta Camps, curators
The Eighties
1980-1982. The first outstanding graduates of the Academy, pioneers of the phenomenon called Flemish Fashion are "The Antwerp Six": Walter van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk van Saene, Dries Van Noten and Dirk Bikkembergs, besides Martin Margiela.
1980. At the Belgian Textile and Dress-Making Institute (ITCB), Helena Ravijst organises the contest "Cannette d'Or", a prize destined to promote Belgium's textile industry.
The young designers are sent to Japan, and support is given to launching the publications Est Belga and BAM. This latter magazine, in particular, proves to be quite receptive to young creators coming from the Academy.
1982. Linda Loppa, new director of the Academy's Fashion Department, stresses the programme's initial premises even more, which are centred on the search for each student's individual sensitivity.
1986. "The Antwerp Six" make a successfully debut presenting their creations during the London Fashion Week, that is to say, outside Belgium. It is the beginning of a new strategy, to visit the catwalks and events already existing in the world instead of creating local ones. The label Belgian Fashion was thus born.
The Ninetines
1997. The Flanders Fashion Institute (FFI) is founded with the purpose of promoting young designers at the international level, since people believe it is not enough to have talent in the fashion field, but that it is also necessary to structure and promote it.
The FFI initiatives are strongly supported by the Flemish government.
1998. The yearly forum VITRINE is started, sponsored by FFI. During ten days in September, students and young designers of the Academy's Fashion Department present their creations at exhibitions, installations, video shows, happenings and shop windows in the stores of the City of Antwerp.
The First Decade of the Year 2000
2001. FFI edits the book Fashion Walk, five circuits to cover the City of Antwerp on foot, on your own, and discover the presence of contemporary fashion, design and architecture.
2002. Opening of ModeNatie Centre, the huge Flemish Fashion promotion project that FFI was after for five years and that gathers together in one single building:
- The headquarters of the Flanders Fashion Institute.
- The Academy's Fashion Department and workshops for students.
- The new Fashion Museum MOMU.
- A specialized library, with bookstore
Antwerp: Other Fashion Proposals is a global vision of this exemplary phenomenon for cities, designers and fashion lovers in general.
We wanted to have all the professionals who make it possible for fashion from Antwerp to be an international reference represented in this exhibition.