At first sight, I was relieved in seeing that Demna, pretty much like Hedi, was trying to do something slightly different from his usual routine: more tailoring, more conservative looks, more considered proportions...but at a closer look, there seems to be very little in terms of genuine creation: the shoulder treatment of the first jackets reeks of Martin Margiela (and then Lutz), the pinched fabric around the shoulder of the coats and tops in the mid section has something in common with stuff I've seen Y Project and Comme Shirt doing lately...
At this point it's obvious that the post-irony and post-originality mumbo-jumbo Gvasalia dishes out at every interview only serves the purpose of hiding his complete lack of ideas.
When the second and third-tier fashion customers will have enough of the Triple-S sneakers, the brand is gonna be in serious trouble.