Berluti Capsule Collection

[marcBarna]

Kris Van Assche has just released his first capsule collection for Berluti since taking the helm at the brand.

Upon announcing his departure from Dior Homme, Kris Van Assche revealed in April that he was headed to Berluti. Shortly after, the brand announced that Van Assche's first collection for the house wouldn't be revealed until January 2019, however we've been given a first taste of what to expect with the announcement of a surprise capsule collection today.

The collection features minimalist silhouettes with the brand's iconic codes reimagined through the eyes of its new designer. In a release, the brand explained: "The classic 'Alessandro' oxford is reimagined with a thicker leather sole, while the brand's traditionally hand-worked patina signature is developed in a dual blue and red colourway, echoed in bags. The archival 'Andy' loafer — named after Warhol — is elevated on a creeper sole, and the 'Scritto', an eighteenth-century manuscript motif inherent to Berluti, features in a graphic print on casualwear and bags, allowing the maison's own history to initiate new beginnings."

Van Assche's new 'Berluti 1895 Paris' signature is also featured on a jacket and shirt, whilst the brand's leather craftsmanship is celebrated via separates including a suit, hoodie and a cap.

Source: Just in: Kris Van Assche's first capsule collection for Berluti is revealed

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[marcBarna]

buro247.me

 

[Lola701]

Awful banality....
I can appreciate the loyalty they have for someone who has helped them maintain the image of Dior but this is so depressing.

This is a great opportunity for Haider to introduce a more classic, timeless line for his menswear. I can see his brand become a bit what Margiela has been for a lot of men.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

He is really the rightful disciple of Hedi Slimane. Dior Homme by KVA at Berluti. I am angry because he managed to steal the job to Haider who did wonders at Berluti.

 

[Salvatore]

I do not like this. Haider's Berluti was infinitely better than this. Hopefully Haider can attract the customers that purchased his items during his time there.

 

[andrew]

Ah, that’s what berluti was missing with haider at the helm: chunky retrosport sneakers, sans serif logo shirts, and superficial irony.

 

[kasper!]

TERRIBLE COLLECTION. IF YOU KNOW WHAT IS ARNYS (WHICH IS THE FOUDATION OF THEIRE CLOTHING LINE), YOU WILL NEVER LIKE THESE STUFF. ARNYS IS THE TRUE RIVE GAUCHE FLAIR FOR ME, NOT THESE UGLY BOMBER JACKETS AND TERRIBLE TRIPLE S RIPOFF SNEAKERS.

 

[dodencebt]

Borderline awful and meaningless, in the vein of Maria Grazia's Dior. I was in love with Haider's Berluti and I don't think I will ever like anything Kris does for the brand after it.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

What a flop debut. Pass.

 

[Cecilou]

It's like KVA only knows black, red, and blue as colors... This lookbook could be a Dior Homme pre-collection if he was still the artistic designer. Nothing new, nothing exciting.

 

[TaylorBinque]

There is a reason why his tricks of cards no longer worked at Dior. It's irrelevant. And this collection sums it up. You either reinvent yourself or just go away.

 

[rip_ian curtis]

In the light of recent climate change reports, only one question arises: was it really necessary to design and produce this nonsense? Really? Every tier of fashion retail is full of this kind of product already.

 

[bc collector]

If I think that the LVMH honchos let HA go to make room for this stuff , I feel like the "new" Berluti should be positively boycotted.

 

[helmutnotdead]

I mean, is Kris van Aasche. what on Earth did you expect?

 

[jeanclaude]

It´s a pity this collection is covering the beautiful images of the atelier in the background.

Really...who needs a "Berluti" logo t-shirt???

 

[Lola701]

It´s a pity this collection is covering the beautiful images of the atelier in the background.

Really...who needs a "Berluti" logo t-shirt???

Asap Rocky maybe?

 

[reesewu]

Haider's Berluti was a luxurious dream and this is a straight-up, streetwear nightmare.

 

[Lola701]

TERRIBLE COLLECTION. IF YOU KNOW WHAT IS ARNYS (WHICH IS THE FOUDATION OF THEIRE CLOTHING LINE), YOU WILL NEVER LIKE THESE STUFF. ARNYS IS THE TRUE RIVE GAUCHE FLAIR FOR ME, NOT THESE UGLY BOMBER JACKETS AND TERRIBLE TRIPLE S RIPOFF SNEAKERS.

Exactly! It's a pity that LVMH did that with Berluti when in fact, Haider's proposition was really needed and refreshing. People seems to forget that Zegna is the biggest brand in the world and that there's nothing more faithful than a classic menswear customer. Some years ago, i read somewhere that Hermes was the biggest moneymaker in menswear.

Sneakers and jeans are cool but the classic menswear customer wants to build a wardrobe. The Arnys customer may have had his shirts made at Charvet and his shoes at Berluti but for casualwear, Berluti could have been a great option for him like Hermes.

The suits have everything wrong when thinking short terms. Aspiration is the key and with this money-hungry, logo-obsessed society, people will gravitate more and more towards brands that are really aspirational. Tom Ford menswear is doing wonderful.
The new young suits who wants to standout are going to Tom Ford. They didn't went to Dior Homme and i doubt they will go for this Berluti in terms of fashion pedigree.

 

[TaylorBinque]

That is very true Lola. I read an article not long ago say that Lanvin make a lot of money from suits. In fact many of their customer work in finance. For me, a lot of customers had already voiced their opinion about this new change. I guess they never listen because they though all the kids would buy into the products. This makes me think of Phoebe and how she built Celine within an underserved market. Haider was doing really well. Maybe if they inject a bit more coolness, it could have been what Gucci is doing with their suits and Harry Styles. But really, it seems like a miss opportunity here.

 

[andrew]

Every time I look at this I am annoyed. Ugh.