Best & Worst of S/S 2018

[GivenchyHomme]

Vogue's "Top 12 Show's":

Calvin Klein
Eckhaus Latta?
Burberry
Simone Rocha
Versace
Dolce & Gabbana’s Secret Show
Marni
Paco Rabanne
Loewe- Surprise, Surprise.
Balenciaga
Céline
Louis Vuitton- Naturally.

We reviewed over 400 collections on Vogue Runway this season. What makes these 12 worthy of inclusion on our Spring 2018 best-in-class list? There’s not a single answer, but many.
Eckhaus Latta in New York and Dolce & Gabbana’s secret show in Milan made the cut for the novel forms in which they were presented. With a “we are the world” casting that included a much Instagrammed pregnant model, her eight-months-along belly fully exposed, Eckhaus Latta’s vision is inclusionary in a way that fashion often fails to be. Designers Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta also made strides with their cool pantsuits. A public-facing runway for the .001 percent, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s secret show was more exclusionary, but endearing nonetheless thanks to the millennial models—famous and otherwise—who brought their parents along as cheering sections. Sure, the kids arrived in tour buses plastered with the D&G logo, but the show itself felt like the duo’s intimate Alta Moda experiences, an invitation for the precious few who know how they lucky are to be in the room: lots of clapping, whooping, and love. Burberry’s Christopher Bailey belongs in this category, too, for sticking to the company’s see-now-buy-now guns (technically speaking this was a Fall collection), and making some very desirable outerwear while he was at it.
Some designers are on the list because of the illuminating ways in which they engaged with our present moment. Calvin Klein’s Raf Simons, a newcomer to New York, evoked the horror of America’s current situation as only an outsider with a scary-movie fetish could. It’s no surprise that Stephen King is trending in the theaters and on the runway, is it? Simons’s pal Sterling Ruby also gets points for the surreal set, complete with Carrie pail and The Shining ax. In Paris, which has experienced its own horror in the form of terrorist attacks, Julien Dossena has found that he and his friends are going out more than ever, and that partying can be a form of resistance. The Paco Rabanne designer seemed to be suggesting, if we’re all dancing on the lip of a volcano, we might as well disco. At Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia had something to say about the political failings and corporate detritus of the age with his banknote prints and tourist tchotchke accessories.
Other designers made us reconsider the past. Simone Rocha brought Victoriana beautifully back to life, and Marni’s Francesco Risso, who gets the prize for most improved, used silhouettes of the 1920s and ’50s to tell his playful story. At Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière scrolled further back and made 18th-century frock coats relevant by combining them with contemporary exercise gear. A Vogue editor summed it up as “Hamilton goes jogging”; it sounds preposterous, but that’s why it worked. Most touchingly, Donatella Versace did a tribute show to her late brother, Gianni, featuring looks from his 1990s outings. Good ideas have staying power. The popularity of the collection is an argument for fashion to slow down its relentless quest for the new and the next—and, while we’re at it, to really and truly reassess the viability of the middle-aged model.
Finally, and most simply, a couple of labels are on this list for the sublime ways their designers are synthesizing fashion at this moment. Decades from now, when future experts discourse on the look and feel of the 20-teens, Jonathan Anderson’s lofty fit-and-flare midi dresses at Loewe will be the accompanying pictures. Phoebe Philo is managing the same thing at Céline: precious but understated clothes that look unmistakably right now. They’re hard to describe and no doubt difficult to achieve, but this we know: Phoebe makes us want to go shopping.

https://www.vogue.com/article/spring-2018-top-12-collections-of-season

 

[MulletProof]

in a way that fashion often fails to be.

lol.. honey, you're Vogue. This is like a dictator whining about the government.

 

[runner]

if there is some newness or new liberty that can be felt in this era, it may be found in things like discarding mobile phones.


best
CdG - discordia concors dream or prayer

I've posted it indeed, as though comme was the winner.
but if music comparison is valid in some way, here is glenn gould giving testimony below:

"I feel demeaned, like a vaudevillian."

"A performance is not a contest but a love affair."