Best & Worst of S/S 2018

BEST
Chloe
Jacquemus
Loewe
Louis Vuitton
Paco Rabanne
Saint Laurent
Thom Browne
3.1 Phillip Lim

EXPECTED MORE
Calvin Klein
Dries Van Noten
Givenchy
Haider Ackermann
Olivier Theyskens

WORST
Helmut Lang
Lanvin
Marni
Nina Ricci
Oscar de la Renta
 
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Best for me were (in no particular order) Celine, Loewe, Vuitton, CK and Jacquemus.

Kind of in between: Chanel was disappointing yet again, Givenchy was nice but felt dull and uninspiring, Valentino was great but my expectations were too high after such a superb HC show and Versace was the highlight of fashion month but it wasn't about the clothes but the Supers and Gianni archive pieces.

The worst were definitely Lanvin and Dior.
 
The best was Saint Laurent and Celine second.
 
I do believe, however, that the good fashion we have is completely out of the radar - not the new faces being pushed by the hype machine, and certainly not the heritage houses, but the small, independent houses that still experiment and adapt, that don't exist in a vacuum as the rest of the industry; It's important that we know where to look if we want to find freshness and excitement at all.

Couldn't agree more! Honestly I'm shocked people hold commercial brands to such high standards. I don't listen to Rihanna hoping she will give me a fresh take on music, I listen to independent and lesser known musicians with a smaller following couples with greater creativity. The same goes for fashion. Actually, I joined this forum in the hopes of gaining exposure to niche and emerging brands.

I vote for beautiful people, btw. Derivative, of course, but reminded me a little of that wonderful Yohji show when Shalom took off bits and pieces of her dress.
 
^ Perhaps, but you probably don't listen to Rihanna's new CD and think, OMG, what dreck ... how in the world did she get where she is?!

No, it's catchy, it's clever, it has good production values. It's reliable and has a certain excellence to it. So apparently fashion lags far behind pop music ... this season anyway.
 
Best:
Saint Laurent (amazing collection, never expected something like this from him)
Olivier Theyskens (just as always)
Dries van Noten
Valentino
I agree with you all, the list of good collections gets shorter and shorter with every season.

Most disappointing: Givenchy!! And I also didn't like the new Chloé, adapting 100% of the style of another house is never a good Idea.
I wasn't even surprised about Lanvin, I knew this would happen in the moment they announced they hired him. Eventhough it's really really sad, I always loved this brand.

Worst: Dior! I didn't found her fist collections as worse as most people (especially couture) but this was just horrible, what was the sense of it? Dresses for a bad taste party? Was she wanting to do something new and unexpected? Than She better should have stayed with her Valentino 2.0 dresses and "we should all be feminists" shirts. At this point I wish they stayed with those in house designers. Even Alexander wang would do a better job at Dior.

I think the problem is, that there is nothing you can count on anymore in fashion. Designers are leaving houses after two seasons and people get hired that do not fit the brand just to create hype. New talent would be the solution but no one risks anything because nowadays it's all about instagram and not about art anymore.
 
Seeing how their opinions being so different from what I read here, really puzzles me what is going on.
 
I find more fascinating the length of that video.. the idea that someone can extract so much from a generally irrelevant month...

nogooduser, I don't want to say you're in the wrong forum exactly.. but that was some wishful thinking from your part :ninja:.. you could learn a lot on these type of emerging brands about 10 years ago, but there was a severe case of model fanaticism, which caused an exodus from members that cared about fashion in that vein.. model fans later moved onto fashion but the commercial/big houses kind and primarily focused on casting (casting of their favorite/legendary models="great collection!"). If it helps though.. track down runner's posts.. he's the only one left really.

:heart::
Noir Kei Ninomiya
Sharon Wauchob
Lemaire
Margaret Howell
Undercover
Suzuki Takayuki
Christian Wijnants
Yohji Yamamoto


There's a lot of bad and average and stuff I'm indifferent too and I wouldn't say I was disappointed but definitely felt a bit of regret trying to catch up with Wendy & Jim's presentation. You would think they would be able to keep some integrity instead of jumping (a bit late) on the eastern european bandwagon and picking up hype breadcrumbs by adhering their work to the meaninglessness behind the work of these people. It's ironic too considering Vetements' total rip-off of the Austrian stuff (esp BLESS).. but anything for survival I guess. :meow:
 
I find more fascinating the length of that video.. the idea that someone can extract so much from a generally irrelevant month...

nogooduser, I don't want to say you're in the wrong forum exactly.. but that was some wishful thinking from your part :ninja:.. you could learn a lot on these type of emerging brands about 10 years ago, but there was a severe case of model fanaticism, which caused an exodus from members that cared about fashion in that vein.. model fans later moved onto fashion but the commercial/big houses kind and primarily focused on casting (casting of their favorite/legendary models="great collection!"). If it helps though.. track down runner's posts.. he's the only one left really.
interesting post. I was wondering what happened to this forum as I too had a feeling that it was becoming more mainstream and commercial. It’s still an interesting read but I find myself more and more out of sync with peoples taste on here, which makes me wonder if it’s just me tiring of fashion in general . Then again , some Collections still make my heart flutter - Comme des Garçons this season ,and Rick Owens .
I am a bit worried that independent designers are almost a thing of the past now, with Vandevorst closing their Rtw Business, and Branqhino stopping completely this season.
It seems that unless Designers are hyped from Season 1 and become big straight away there is no possibility anymore for independent houses to grow slowly and organically.
The only one from that generation who seems to be able to keep his business going without any sort of hype is Lutz Huelle. There’s no new Belgian generation of Designers, for the first time since I started following fashion
 
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^ it's a combination no? the forum went downhill in terms of content, members but partly too thanks to the direction of the site from the new owners focused on pushing that horrifying homepage by, among other things, sinking the forum.. I think that if I was tempted to sign up now, if I clicked on the homepage by mistake I would be like 'uh nevermind..'.

Then of course there's really the shift in fashion.. I remember day 2 of PFW was candyland for me, there were so many acts to keep track of, people experimenting or just somehow pushing the envelope by being themselves (e.g. Lutz)... most of them vanished after the crisis in 2008. These days I end up browsing, out of a need to see (except nothing to see), and even trying to form an opinion or justify things I would have never given the time of day back in the day (like Saint Laurent.. I even looked at dumb Versace and thought 'it's actually kind of fun?'). I always thought that even when people complain (and they do this ALL THE TIME) that quality's decreased and the old times were better times, if you actually make an effort and dig, you'll find gems in pretty much any field (fashion, art, music, films). I still find that in, say, music, but have nearly given up on fashion... the presentation and the qualifications to be that designer that gets to "show" are so awfully corporate and.. wrong, that the only high I get is through the actual store, on-your-body / out-of-body experience sometimes. Always hated shopping though, so it hardly compensates..

I would also like to add that back in the day, when there were a ton of independent acts, I thought all of them deserved some merit just by being independent. I view that differently now that I'm older and feel confident enough to question things that seemed surrounded by an aura of cult-like respect... I ended up maybe relating more, or relating less, to the motives behind some of these labels.. like Rick Owens, Wendy&Jim as mentioned above!. I feel a bit repulsed by the philosophies, the clique-y vibe, the phony ways in which some present themselves as an alternative with nothing substantial or truthful that supports this positioning, the people that gravitate towards certain aesthetics, the snobbery combined with a general lack of social responsibility (which is common in the industry but you don't parade yourself as a defying element when you subscribe to exactly the same).

I found this interview today that might interest you.. I kept thinking about the generational thing all this time and I'm glad he's talking about it too... and that's hard to beat.. it takes a whole other generation really (as in the kids that are currently around 12 lol).
 
Maybe 2018 is just emblematic of that perverted, two decade long marriage between fashion and investors, what with Demna and Alessandro captivating the eyes and pocketbooks editors and consumers alike. Especially with the former--he's kind of like the David Lynch of fashion, toying with dark and shallow impulses to sell clothing I think he himself finds stupid.

I'm also reminded of Raf Simmons in System Mag: "Fashion became pop. And I don't know if one should be ashamed to admit that it was nicer when it was more elitist."

I'm just wondering if prior to LVMH and Kerring investing in fashion--was it different? I'm 25 and so I have zero sense of any past--I'm still amazed there was a time fashion, luxury, and commercialism each meant something different.
 
Maybe 2018 is just emblematic of that perverted, two decade long marriage between fashion and investors, what with Demna and Alessandro captivating the eyes and pocketbooks editors and consumers alike. Especially with the former--he's kind of like the David Lynch of fashion, toying with dark and shallow impulses to sell clothing I think he himself finds stupid.

I'm also reminded of Raf Simmons in System Mag: "Fashion became pop. And I don't know if one should be ashamed to admit that it was nicer when it was more elitist."

I'm just wondering if prior to LVMH and Kerring investing in fashion--was it different? I'm 25 and so I have zero sense of any past--I'm still amazed there was a time fashion, luxury, and commercialism each meant something different.

I'm not 25 :(:(:( and i have a sense of the past.
The fashion was more elitist but why? Maybe because we haven't Instagram and we haven't any possibility to share all what we loved and wore? We are living now in Instagram & Co era , if in this era fashion could remain elitist, i doubt about it. (imo)
 
I just read through this thread and saw how so many people have put Jacquemus at their No.1 spot.
So I'm immediately searching for this 'top show' of the season that I've missed.

?

It's like a dull Donna Karan collection breeding with J.W. Anderson.

Like, are we looking at the same clothes? Am I not supposed to be looking at the clothes at all?

I have yet to look at a lot of collections, and these are some slim pickins' but here we go:

Best

Maison Margiela
I haven't read up on it, but it appeared to be clothing inspired by parcels and wrapping. Basically I wasn't dying over the clothes but highly appreciative of the fact that someone actually got inspired by something.

Thom Browne
The same reason as above, it's so refreshing to see that someone is still thinking outside of the box, and in Thom Browne's case in such good quality and with such attention to detail.
Look at the detail shots on Vogue if you have time, the amount of work in those garments is incredible.

Celine
Beautiful and interesting clothing, as usual from Phoebe Philo.


Honourable Mention:

Rochas/No.21
Some beautiful pieces, great colours.


Worst

Lanvin
No words

Chanel
Just repeatedly ugly, the new "it boot"? I thought something graced with the "it" label meant people would/could actually wear it.

Dior
Like someone googled "fashion" and pressed print.

Jacquemus
Because I'm contrary.

And a lot more.
 
Best: Undercover.

Fantastic clothing? Check.
Fantastic runway show? Check.
Check, check, check.

What more do you need?

Honorable mention goes to Chitose Abe & Dries Van Noten just for making an aesthetically pleasing collection of clothes.

The rest can go jump in a river.
 
^^ In a good season, probably Jacquemus wouldn't be in so many top spots. However, analyzing what excites me about it, the guy is self-trained, and this draping is pretty damn good. (Plus it's not nearly all he can do well.) After several seasons without Alber (not to mention the pitiful dreck at the bottom of everyone's lists that is now Lanvin), it's nice to see someone doing this well, if not at the level of the master.

It'll be interesting to see what actually gets produced. Most of the clothes don't look that wearable for everyday life. You do expose that much leg at the beach, but not at the office or dinner ...
 
There’s still some gorgeous and strong visions— along with unabashed sexiness in this time of mediocrity rule. And there always will be.

Lemaire
Sain Laurent
Comme des Garcons
3.1 Phillip Lim
Calcaterra
Thom Brown
Bottega Veneta
Maison Margiela
Lutz Huelle

I loved the couture-y frock coats at Vuitton, with a hint of Maharaja splendour in the jewelled-embellishments (very Gautlier Tattoo You). It’s just too bad everything else from the collection was so mundane and try-hard street basics: When Nicolas is resorting to showing men’s boxers and a Stranger Things tee, he’s showing his age, not his talent.

Missing Vandevorst in RTW. They were always that constant and quiet strain of beauty and barbarity in presentation and attitude build on gorgeous designs that excited me. I hope they find their way back soon. I’d invest in them and nurture their elegant empire if I had the means.
 
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PARIS
Louis Vuitton
LOEWE
Valentino
Chloe
Esteban Cortazar
Celine
Rick Owens
Rochas
Balenciaga
Paco Rabanne
Nina Ricci

MILAN
Prada
Marni

LONDON
Christopher Kane
Erdem
JW Anderson
Chalayan
Emilia Wickstead

NEW YORK
Calvin Klein
Marc Jacobs

Worst
Christian Dior: She needs to go!
 
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best:
louis vuitton
vera wang
celine
loewe
paco rabanne
rick owens
yang li
prada
jil sander
hillier bartley
preen
simone rocha
j.w anderson
calvin klein

aka the only shows i really liked at all, most others were really mediocre.
 

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